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The "Is this normal?"topic

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Trapperr, Mar 18, 2014.

  1. Mar 18, 2014 at 1:48 PM
    #1
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hope you guys aren't getting annoyed with my basic and sometimes obvious questions. I started this thread to see if things are how they should be from someone who just doesn't know.

    The first one I'll post is this:

    e3ytuge8_3e92be18555049d60528a5efd89ce97c8a27ba9b.jpg

    For some reason, them wheels don't look right. Does this have anything to do with it?
    Passenger side
    2usezybu_afca67439ed6590b72f4711746f42c8e64069bc7.jpg

    Drivers side
    re3e8ehy_f955f44ad12e6c64f23b3c6f3e0c459984c05cda.jpg

    The look to be set on different positions.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2014
  2. Mar 18, 2014 at 1:55 PM
    #2
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Inside wheel will always turn more than the outside wheel when making a turn. This is called Ackermann steering geometry. As long as the wheels are not toe-in or toe-out when going strait, it's fine.

    The alignment cam tabs will never in the same position when comparing left to right.
     
  3. Mar 18, 2014 at 1:57 PM
    #3
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is why I come here now. You guys put my fears to rest. I'm still trying to iron out the bugs in this front end. Thank you!
     
  4. Mar 18, 2014 at 2:17 PM
    #4
    Tinmann

    Tinmann Well-Known Member

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    Well, cause its just begging to be asked! When you let go of the steering wheel, does the truck drift towards the right?

    Also, the picture you took, are the wheels centered or did you slightly crank them to the right. At that picture angle, it appears the right wheel needs some toe-in.

    I'm no front end alignment guru, but isn't toe-in/out adjusted by the outer tie rods? I believe that the last pictures you have are for camber/caster adjustment. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
     
  5. Mar 18, 2014 at 2:27 PM
    #5
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can't say you're wrong or right on the last part. I'm sub-novice on that sort of thing.

    Yes I was turning slightly to the right here. Curved drive way.

    The truck BARELY starts to drift to the right. Like maybe it begins to drift into the right lane close to a quarter mile down the road, if that makes sense. In other words, it's a very, very gradual drift. Always thought it had to do with my 9+ year old BFG's.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2014
  6. Mar 18, 2014 at 2:43 PM
    #6
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Toe in/out is corrected by adjusting outer TRE.
    The cam tabs are used for adjusting camber & caster.
    A really gradual drift to the right is normally just due to the concave road surface. Most road surfaces decrease slightly in elevation the closer you get to the sides for water runnoff purposes.
    When in doubt...get an alignment.
     
  7. Mar 20, 2014 at 8:34 AM
    #7
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    jeme3e7e_85101080d52fb6d097b67798f1c7e73e87510280.jpg

    Anyone know what this white wire is for? Leads to under the fuse block. Another member here suggested I disconnect it from the battery which I'll do tonight but I'm curious if anyone knows it's purpose? I had an after market alarm recently removed. I charged my battery on the trickle charger over night as the positive cable was a little loose after the alarm was removed. Tightened the wing but which is still tight yet this morning my truck struggled to start. Almost like something is draining the battery overnight.
     
  8. Mar 20, 2014 at 9:04 AM
    #8
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    You could unplug it...but your truck won't work.
    Black one goes to your starter. White one is everything else.
     
  9. Mar 20, 2014 at 9:07 AM
    #9
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks jberry. I figured it still had to be in there for a reason or they would have removed it. Is it normally bundled with the other positive cables? I guess I'm wondering if this is normal in appearance?
     
  10. Mar 20, 2014 at 9:33 AM
    #10
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    Completely normal. Non-factory wing nut, but the wiring is normal.
     
  11. Mar 20, 2014 at 9:37 AM
    #11
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I did the wing nut. Factory clamp wouldn't hold on to the terminal so I replaced it with an autozone part.
     
  12. Mar 20, 2014 at 10:51 AM
    #12
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    The white wire puts power to the fuse block. Then the black wire goes to the starter. It just sounds like your battery is weak. When a battery starts to go bad, it won't hold the charge anymore. You can go to your local autoparts store and they should have a load tester to test if your battery is bad or not. They can check the battery while installed or you can bring it inside.
     
  13. Mar 25, 2014 at 7:46 AM
    #13
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    mubu8ape_bfa06400ca3782e92da6562a708f59a93a10253b.jpg

    Idle around 500. Normal?
     
  14. Mar 26, 2014 at 6:59 PM
    #14
    AKADriver

    AKADriver Active Member

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    Idle speed should be 700rpm. It's hard to see but yours is a bit over 500, looks more like 600-650? Check it with an OBD scanner to get the actual digital RPM reading.

    I have a 2.4 automatic, 5-lug, bone stock, normal street tires. Roaring noise at speed especially audible on deceleration, under acceleration it's drowned out by the engine. Normal? I'm used to driving a noisy uninsulated car and this doesn't sound like normal tire roar. But it doesn't sound like a wheel bearing either.
     
  15. Mar 26, 2014 at 7:07 PM
    #15
    BuzzardsGottaEat

    BuzzardsGottaEat Well-Known Member

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    Round tires

    My tires actually always look slightly \--/ from the front, but I've had quite a few alignments done with each tweak to the t-bars or suspension change and each time is stays the same. It kind of baffles me ha
     
  16. Mar 27, 2014 at 7:09 PM
    #16
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    e9y4ujyv_4f7078258f386179d952d5fbb5bd18b2652c1f0d.jpg

    Is this about right for a tbelt/waterpump with tensioner pulleys and a gallon of coolant? $737.
     
  17. Apr 2, 2014 at 9:27 AM
    #17
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Figured it's not normal to pay that. Without the $27 jug of coolant the total is $700.90 for the "kit". Checked prices at camelback Toyota and it came out to $402 and some change. That's more like it.
     
  18. Apr 2, 2014 at 10:06 AM
    #18
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    You can order an entire kit off of eBay that is all oem Toyota parts for around $300-350. Just do your research and make sure everything you need is there and is a good name brand.
     
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    #18
  19. Apr 2, 2014 at 11:52 AM
    #19
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 A dude

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    Some of this Some of that
    That terminal doesn't look like its on there very well, loosen that thing up and tap it down on the battery post some
     
  20. Apr 9, 2014 at 7:52 PM
    #20
    Trapperr

    Trapperr [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, here is another curious one. My front tires chirp when turning after a taking off from a complete stop. I only notice it when turning right and its not all the time.

    Normal or not, why does it do that?
     

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