Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

I'm about $180 a month give or take.

 

About a tank a week.....you must drive the Prius to work everyday.

 

I use to drive on Fridays ONLY!!!! Then 2 years ago my littlest munchkin was born and the carpooling stopped


So now I drive everyday but it's 24 miles round trip from home to work. Weekends she sits in the garage and we take the girls new Optima.

 

that is sig worthy.

 

4 days a week, I commute 112 miles a day (roundtrip)to work....the gas stations love me!

That was one of the funniest things I've read on TW.

 

Yea it is ^


Well done ROSS.

 

If all the money was just given to you for a free project.....would you....

A) Long Travel
B) SAS

 

C) MT with SUA

 

I would sas twin case that bitch.

 

SUA?

Hell yeah....twin Marlin cases!

 

Mid travel with spring under axle rear. It's the way to get a good 15+ inches of droop out of the rear.

 

Funny you mention a spring under swap....I did a spring over swap on a 79 CJ years ago. I got more lift but the steering was real scary.

 

You can see the spring perch on top of the tube in this pic....I had put the springs back under in this pic....

 

Yea its crazy to follow the evolution of suspension and see where its at now. I personally feel that having 9 inches of travel from IFS up front and the SUA rear is the way to go and still keep the cost affordable. You don't need to add a bed cage and bypasses and get all insane LT. Granted, 4x4 LT looks amazing and is good for all types of wheeling and a solid axle is the strength you need for the inevitable rock meets diff scenarios but this set up is perfect for someone like me and the way I would go if I had bought a stock Taco vs a DB lifted one.

 

LOL No doubt I was just thinking the same thing you DB's are not keeping me very motivated... good thing I have all these maniacal desert runner kids to steal ideas from

Waiting on CO's project # Tres :

Just finished up my new rear brake hoses I mentioned. Laid under the truck for a few hours arguing with myself and changing my mind ten times about what to do but finally settled on ripping out every hard brake line from the "L" junction on the frame under the drivers seat all the way to the drums... good thing I learned how to drop the gas tank from my rear bucket seat project because I had to do it again to remove the brake lines. I eliminated that "L" on the frame rail under the drivers seat and ran kevlar hoses all the way to the drums with banjo fittings at the drums. Ran the hoses via the same route as the e-brake cables...stole the idea from seeing linked trucks with hoses run down the arms. Just need to re run the sensor wires down the same route and the rear axle housing will be naked. Grind off all the tabs and re paint the housing. Going to run the sensor wires down the e-brake lines and cover the e-brkae cable and sensor wires together with one 1/2" stainless braid hose covering. Found some race car stuff on the Summit Racing site to support the hoses and cables that I'm hoping will work out well too.

 

Sounds familiar

 

Couldn't even pay me to run SUA here in CO

 

Where U been stranger?

 

Don't take credit for something that Ive learned from working with Jason and all of the reading I've done pattycakes
It's why I lit up when you told me you were going to stay with that set up and said that's the way to go. Your truck is just about perfect, I even like the fenders!