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Changing leaf springs this weekend, wish me luck!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by mkatts, Mar 18, 2014.

  1. Mar 18, 2014 at 10:51 AM
    #1
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    New springs, shackles, bushings and front bolts all on hand. New sawzall blades and cutoff wheels. Im not even going to try breaking any of the bolts loose. :D

    Local Toyota dealer had to order the bolts and nuts, but just had to come from Cincinnati wharehouse. $17 for all. Just FYI, I had to buy the nut and bolt separate. Bolt was $5 and change, nut was $1.98 I think.

    Stock replacement springs, so not worried about the brake line. If I need more room, I'll just disconnect it and re-bleed the brakes. I have already replaced all of the brake hardware, so I know the bleeders are not seized.

    Wish me luck!
     
  2. Mar 18, 2014 at 11:30 AM
    #2
    dispatch55126

    dispatch55126 Well-Known Member

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    If you're still ADAF, go to the base MWR shop. I practically built my TJ is one. Lifts, air tools and all of the other goodies a fully stocked garage has for only a few bucks an hour.
     
  3. Mar 18, 2014 at 12:37 PM
    #3
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No, been out for close to 20 years. I used it a lot when I was at Wright Patt. Practically lived there.
    This will be done at home in my two car garage with jack stands and two floor jacks.
     
  4. Mar 18, 2014 at 12:45 PM
    #4
    dispatch55126

    dispatch55126 Well-Known Member

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    Ah. Been out 10 years and still miss the auto garage whenever I need that "one" tool to make things go easy.
     
  5. Mar 18, 2014 at 3:21 PM
    #5
    Tinmann

    Tinmann Well-Known Member

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    Joe, wishing you good luck there pal! :cheers:
     
  6. Mar 18, 2014 at 3:52 PM
    #6
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
     
  7. Mar 19, 2014 at 11:47 AM
    #7
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Word to the wise, when you order parts from the Toyota Dealership, make sure it's the one on your side of town and not 35 miles away. I went to pick up my bolts and they couldn't find em. Looked all over. Couldn't even find the record where I ordered them. So smuggly I whipped out my phone and went to my bank account to show them where they sure as hell charged me for the nuts and bolts. Showed them the entry. It said XXX Toyota. I was at YYY Toyota. Glad I wasn't an ass to them. I would hav felt even worse. lol

    :eek:
     
  8. Mar 24, 2014 at 5:06 AM
    #8
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well, I didn't get to do my springs this weekend. Back went out Thursday at work. Spent the weekend in bed on drugs and ice.
    I'll try next weekend.
     
  9. Mar 24, 2014 at 6:12 AM
    #9
    dispatch55126

    dispatch55126 Well-Known Member

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    Get better and take it easy for awhile.
     
  10. Mar 24, 2014 at 6:17 AM
    #10
    Gearheadesw

    Gearheadesw must modify

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    Take it easy on your back. Then, spring time, baby. Good luck, be careful, you'll be fine.
     
  11. Mar 24, 2014 at 7:12 AM
    #11
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks all.
     
  12. Mar 24, 2014 at 7:46 AM
    #12
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Lakeside, Ca / Gardnerville, Nevada
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    2004 DC TRD 4x
    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    Sorry about your back dude, those strains are the worst, heres a little hint that'll save your ass & make the process alot easier, first off all you need is 2 good jackstands (6 ton or better) & 1 good floorjack,chock the front wheels front & back of tires, lift your truck until the bottom of your tires are about 6" off the ground (loosen the lugs first if you dont have an impact) Find a good flat spot under your frame , set up your stands as close to that current height as you can, remove both tires, now before you start loosening/cutting things off get a small ratchet type strap (like a motorcycle tiedown) & take the hooks & find a spot for them under the bed as close to being over the axle as possible making sure you loop the strap under the differential leaving a gap of about 6" under it (this is going to play huge in a min. as you'll see) now go about removing all neccessary hardware , Ubolts/shackle bolts/hanger bolts/etc: loosen & remove lower shock from mount (don't have to remove the whole shock unless replacing) Now if you've gotten everything off that needs to be, you should be at the point where your truck is safely resting on the stands & your floorjack is still under your differential & your ready to drop that bad boy, now verrrry slowly start lowering your complete axle assembly while doing this look at the gap you made with the strap under the diff. As the axle lowers that gap should be starting to shrink getting closer to making contact with diff. this is exactly what you want because the second that the axle seperates from bottom of leafspring the whole fucking mess is going to roll forward on you causing some guaranteed ass puckering (& potentially damaging) moments if this thing isn't slinged properly underneath the diff when it takes place, trust me I've R&R'd at least 150 axles,mostly tacomas in this fashion & won't do it any other way, that sling is like having 2 of your buddies (that actually know what they're doing) hold the whole thing up while you safely lower your axle in the un eventful way it was intended, you'll thank me for this if you didn't know it before....
     
  13. Mar 24, 2014 at 7:56 AM
    #13
    Tinmann

    Tinmann Well-Known Member

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    Well, let's hope a front doesn't come thru this weekend Joe, that way you can get er done!

    If not, maybe beer on ice is called for. :goingcrazy:
     
  14. Mar 24, 2014 at 8:03 AM
    #14
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now

    Sometimes a cold beer is required, I don't know if the guy has done this before or not, if he has & knows whats up I wasted my time explaining it, if not then he'll be way ahead if he reads & heeds what I'm explaining, It's a 1 man operation for my method but if he's got a buddy or 2 close by thats always nice too....
     
  15. Mar 24, 2014 at 8:05 AM
    #15
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    I see your S/N is Tinmann, is there some significants to that ?? You a sheetmetal guy ??
     
  16. Mar 24, 2014 at 2:06 PM
    #16
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that information! I was going to do one side at time but may go your route instead!
    And thanks for the encouragement too!
     
  17. Mar 24, 2014 at 2:13 PM
    #17
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll be on my own. I've done my fair share of axle/spring replacing jobs UT not on a tacoma. Can ne er have to much advise!
    I'm used to doing everything on my own working at a chevy dealership for commission makes it hard to borrow another mechanics hands without him wanting some of my booked time. So I'd always figure out ways to do it on my own!
     
  18. Mar 24, 2014 at 2:17 PM
    #18
    mkatts

    mkatts [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So just a single strap under the diff? Suspended front to back?
     
  19. Mar 24, 2014 at 2:20 PM
    #19
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    Yeah don't do 1 side at a time, it's really a straight forward process & really if done the way I describe you're going to have it easier & def. quicker.. Most guys do drop one side at a time, i think its because if they get lost in the install they have a completed side for reference, is this your reasoning ?? If so I totally understand, thats how i was with brakes the first few times, granted, I've done this quite a few times but just for reference , I can have a truck's rear suspension R&R'd in about 2 hours from start to finish, & thats with 1 impact thats it, the only reason i bring it up is to show that its not as hard as people make it, your 1st gen, so really the only thing you need to remove besides the hardware (Ubolts & shit) is the E brake cable that connects to the drums on each side, & removing the lower shock body off it's mount, When lowering the axle to keep an eye on your brakeline, it too can stay connected during this if you pay attention to it, if you click on link in my sig you'll get an idea of what i do...
     
  20. Mar 24, 2014 at 2:26 PM
    #20
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Lakeside, Ca / Gardnerville, Nevada
    Vehicle:
    2004 DC TRD 4x
    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now

    I'm sorry dude, didn't see this post, yeah if you're familiar with it even better, then DEF do it as described, you'll be hours ahead seriously

    As far as the strap goes, cradle it under the diff where the shaft bolts up to the pinion flange, try to keep it off the flange itself but if it slips or you can't its not a major thing, just make sure that as the axle drops down that gap from the sling gets smaller too so as the axle starts to seperate from springs & starts to fall forward it'll just hit the strap & thats as exciting as it gets....
     

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