coolant overflow filling up?

I don't know much about this stuff, but I think the issue is the coolant isn't going into the right places so the reservoir is filling up right away. (Reservoir should only fill up when the engine is very hot/pressurized) If he was to keep on removing/siphon coolant out because it kept on overflowing he would eventually be left without any coolant.

 

did the dealer test your radiator cap? if it doesnt hold pressure that could be your problem. go for the easy stuff first

 

This, it's really easy to do a pressure test on a radiator cap (and a radiator for that matter).

 

Too much coolant in the system!? If a dealer ever told me that I don't think I would ever return to them. Who ever made that statement has no business working on a vehicle.

 

new cap was installed and tested, coolant was flushed and filled at the dealership, under normal driving levels stay the same, when i stomp on it for a bit, the reservoir fills up

 

yeah i wish i didn't have to drive home, but i have to get back to work, probably gonna buy a used motor hopefully with low miles, and have it built, with aftermarket gaskets and studs,

 

they ran every test they could, tested the block when hot and cold, leak down test, put it on the smog machine, and everything checks out normal, i gonna miss that boost for a while at least

 

SC induced leakage by the head gasket. It will get worse.

 

Where's Torq when you need him? He would probably know better than just about anyone.

 

Pull your spark plugs and check for coolant residue. The only leak test they do at the dealership is pressure test and smog. A dye test will be more accurate.

 

drove 10 hours home, now i need to decide on whether to have my head gasket replaced, possibly with aftermarket gaskets and head studs, or buy a used motor, possibly just leave it stock, my oil looks like brand new, no coolant under the oil fill cap, coolant is clean also...what to do, 130k on this motor,

 

Just replace the head gaskets. No need to replace the engine.

 

thanks for the input, its in the shop, its gonna be a long week without her

 

To bad I hadn't seen this sooner.

http://www.dezod.com/cat_engine4.cfm

Head studs and head gaskets in there. The OEM head bolts are torque to yield. As well, they are over stretched during install, by design. They just don't have the tensile strength of the higher quality ARP head studs. Over time, they stretch. More so will the addition of boost.
The head gaskets, are very weak design, when introduced to boost. Their middle layer is extremely thin, inadequate for higher boost levels. Above 10 psi. This is one reason why the stock setup is set to 6 psi, and the tune is "usually" very safe.

Jimmyh has said it well. Boost related blow by, from the cylinders. Head gaskets and head studs, will do perfectly. Just needs to be installed by a competent person.

 

wow thank you, super helpful, i am going with cometic HG's and arp head studs, the mechanic has a small shop, he raced cars for 20 some years, he has replaced plenty gaskets, i just hope he gets the correct torque specs for the arp studs and the aftermarket gasket, would they differ from the stock setup?

 

i also have a unichip installed, and the map seemed way more aggressive then the stock ecu with reflash, but i also blew the head gasket after a week of using the unichip, it seemed to run better with the unichip and did feel like it had a lot more power, should i go back to the ref lashed stock edu? any thoughts on that anyone ?

 

80 ft/lbs

 

This is interesting. However I do question this. Do you have any proven stats showing that the head bolts are torqued to yield point. I ask this because the 4.0 engine is made of aluminum, heads and block. To be able to stretch a steel stud to yield in an aluminum block without stripping the block with aluminum heads threads is doubtful unless the size (dia.) of the stud is too small.
Also even when the block is steel and the heads are aluminum you still cannot torque to the same as steel heads since you crush the aluminum heads.
I would be interested in seeing any data you have on this. Thank you.

 

Nope. I did over state that. As going to 90 - 100 ft pounds would likely strip out the threads in the block and or deform the heads, and if it did hold, very likely deform the cylinders as well. Egg shape them. Be I that they are only an 11 mm thread diameter, it would most likely pull the threads out first.

They honestly might not be, but I can bet good money that the OEM bolts do not have near the tensile strength of the ARP 2000 series studs, regardless of if they are at a yielded point. All I know about the factory bolts is that they are torqued to 20 foot pounds, then turned 180°, with a thin coat of oil on the threads. Not sure how much that addition of 180° adds to the additional 20, but I it is a lot, and you don't re-use them, per factory spec. A stretch gauge would be able to tell you how much they have stretched in that torque process. I have never checked them, nor care to.

A good basis to go by is listed on ARP's website, about OEM torque to yield bolts.