Tacoma V6 3.4 Wants to overheat

Fan clutch.

 

Ok good. Will do a block Chek soon. As for the temps in the city with the new 70/30 as Prestone reccomended coolant the temps are lower and seem to be doing good. about 195-199. Ill find out how it does on the highway next week as Im doing a trip to the dezert agian climbing the highway where it always wants to overheat. Now Im still suspect to the fan clutch since I pretty much replaced everything else. But It has a normal resistance but could it still be bad?

 

At this point it has to be. Its the original one by the way.

 

You checked the fan bearing wasn't seized or dragging. But that isn't the problem. The fan clutch seems to be not fully engaging. Higher rpms (i.e. fan belt turning faster) made up for some of the slippage, so your cooling improved.

 

Oh gotcha. Will replace asap in that case! And slippage you mean?

 

The clutch (a fluid-filled coupling) seems to be not engaging fully (i.e. not reaching 1:1 speed with the fan belt).

 

Would a faulty fan clutch cause to lose slight power? I do notice that .

 

^Probably a separate issue. A faulty fan clutch should not cause a noticeable loss of power.

 

Hmm ok, It was very slight, at the time of temperature rising, but when at high rpms it felt like the power kicked back on. And Im running 31" tires too. Just asking since my cousins prerunner tacoma feels like it has more power.

 

Ok I got a fan clutch will install tomorrow. Lets see what it does.

 

New Fan clutch is on, no real test, But overall I can hear the fan blowing air and its really pulling lots air compared to the original.

 

Defintely digging up an old thread here, but for posterity's sake, no one has mentioned making sure the thermostat jiggle valve is in the downward facing or 6 o'clock postion.

Common sense would indicate the jiggle valve be facing upwards (12 o'clock position) but I had a similar problem, checked the FSM and changed the T-stat jiggle valve to face downwards and the truck instantly ran at the desired 190 degree temp.

Hope this will help someone doing a search here in the future.

 

Hey Anthony, I just ran into this problem yesterday for the first time. How did it go after replacing your clutch fan? I'm guessing I might have to replace mine as well.
I'm also looking for help to do the actual labor, and could use some assistance, if you're available and willing to help me out. I'd pay you of course. Just can't afford to take it to a shop right now.

 

Glad I stumbled on this thread, I have the same problem. I replaced water pump, timing belt, tstat(Stant 170), radiator (2 core), lower radiator hose, about 10 flushes with distilled water, 2 flushes with cleaner, new spark plugs, and seafoam. I am at the point where I think it is the HG. I have been using green coolant, because Toyota red is too valuable to diagnose a problem with, it seems to come out "murky" after being ran for a while. There is also "sediment" in the overflow reservoir after a few hundred/thousand miles. If I am running around town the truck runs between 190-210, on the highway for short trips it runs at 230. The interesting thing is the only time the dash gauge moves up is once the temp hits 240. If I turn on the heater I can get it to 220, or if I downshift I can get it all the way to 180. That fan clutch has me thinking, I want to get the coolant chemical tester before I buy anything though.

Here are the old plugs



I bought this truck because the engine was "in great shape," guess they left out a few things!

Thanks for any help!

 

Hmmm thats a tough one.. I recently added a transmssion cooler which seemed to help city driving.But temps for me still rise driving in the highway under 2K Rpms. It stays fine above 2K Rpms. Which doesnt help is that my gearing ratio in the rear axle changed from stock 4:10 to 3:91 so the truck is working a bit more. I would change the fan clutch its only about $45... I now only have the idea that its gonna be the thermostat.

 

I just did the fan clutch ($150) and had the cooling system pressure tested, and it passed. I am thinking that I am going to just work around the problem.

 

Anthony did flipping ur thermostat to have jiggle valve at 6 o'clock position help?

 

damn i never checked my jiggle valve position when i installed it...my truck runs on the cooler side though.

 

You Know I never did check, getting all the way down to the thermostat is a nightmare.

 

I just did mine tonight. It is really pretty easy. Just drain rad and remove 3 nuts. That's it for the most part. I flipped mine and put a different upper rad hose on since stock fan burned a pinned hole in old one. Lol 3.0 rad put it a lil to close. Now plenty if clearance! I'll see how it runs this week, test run tonight was fine...