95.5 and 96 3.4 tacoma TURBO problem!!!

Thanks. I have a t, but i has a male and female end . Im curious how to original owner plugged in.

You get that URD controller figured out?

 

Subbed. Looks like you're having fun with your build. Everything seems to be looking good. Keep it up brother

 

I'm just about fed up with it actually. I don't have a computer with a 9pin serial port and nobody (quite literally) knows how to convert it to something I can use. Serial to USB converter is a no go and I'm not about to buy a laptop from the 1990s just to tune my truck. I'm probably going to ditch all of this outdated nonsense and buy a mapecu3 for controlling stock injector pulses&timing and a separate controller for just the port fueler... And I think I'm going to go the traditional front mount turbo rout too

 

Sorry man, bummer URD cant help you out. The MAPECU3 should be able to control both stocks and secondaries. Whats wrong with the rear mounted setup? I wouldnt make up my mind until after a good tune

 

So long as the customer service is there. Looks like a good company, and have heard the name at the track. Looks like the basic deal will handle about 42psi. Rpm switches, Timing pull, ect.

And also,,there latest is Win 7,,see if they are discounting the XP's, since Win 8 is replacing that. Win 8 takes effect in a few days I think.

 

Nothing is wrong with it... In fact I am EXTREMELY happy with the power I get with 4-5psi, stock tune and an engine that's almost 20 years old. That being said, I require significant reliability to be satisfied with a vehicle (that's why I drive nothing but Toyota) and the thought of my oil return pump taking a dump on a road trip or long ass offroad trail scares me damn near to the point where I would consider going NA. It's more of a weird psychological issue I guess since I grew up in that truck.

400-500 more bucks for a turbo setup that won't leak under any reasonable circumstances is worth every penny to me and I'm just now realizing that. I think I'm going to hold off on tuning until i figure out what I'm doing.


And I got caught up on your thread today.. Sorry about the wreck dude. It's always something huh? /:

 

I know right!? My wifehates the truck; probably hired someone to take it out .

Im completely with you onthe oil pump. I would wire an indicator light to insure its running andprobably put a second pump in line and run it constantly or wire a relay that automaticallykicks on the second when the first drops out... Or just get a front mountedturbo

 

Haha! Are the CXracing headers the ones you are using for your build? $420 for those puppies and the rest of the exhaust needs to be dealt with... hmmmm.
That's just shy of a pretty damn sweet deal if you ask me. What are you going to do about oil drain? Is there a brass/AN fitting you plan on using after drilling and tapping the pan or what?

And your new headlights look sweet dude (glad my 96 has glass not plastic though hehe) but you need something in the 5-6 thousand kelvin range
My next semi-expensive buy is some lifetime LED headlights.

 

Yeah, I got the entire kit. It comes with the oil hook ups and a fitting to tap or weld into your oil pan. The exhaust tubing comes with a bung for a wide band sensor pre installed as well.

I love the head light look, just need something brighter like you said. Also need to aim them. Driving at night feels like my truck is cross eyed . Im thinking about doing LEDs as well... we'll see (would really like to do the retro fit mod).

 

Stay away from aftermarket HID kits whatever you do.

The wideband bung comes on their header only kit too which I thought was mighty generous along with the wastegate flange (edit: apparently I'm a jackass and the kit with the down pipe is $599) . I guess the only two things I'm trippin on now is finding a shop that won't ride me home on the price to tap my oil pan and complete my exhast. I could always revert back to my redneck ways and throw some flex pipe in there and call it good

Well Andrew I know your probably a little overwhelmed with the accident nonsense right now but it looks like we'll have pretty much twin builds here before long.

 

Just know that there are some quirks with the LED headlights. I have the Lifetime LED headlights from Southeast Overland, and it interfers with my radio reception big time. Station can be coming in crystal clear, and when I turn on my headlights it all goes to static. For some reason when I turn on my factory fog lights, it activates my high beams. I have no idea why. I haven't modified any of the wiring, so I don't know why it does this. The low beams are excellent, but the high beams are lack luster in comparison. When I do turn the high beams on, the blue indicator on the dash does not light up.

Just some things to be aware of before you buy.

 

The dashboard high beam indicator thing is pretty common for any headlight that doesn't use a full extra 55w per bulb for the high beams since most set ups are run on specific amperage relays to properly illuminate the indicator light. I haven't yet heard about radio thing though.... I'd love to stay away from aftermarket HIDs if I can help it /:

 

Yeah, I won't get the truck back until late next week. Then its back to figuring out the ground issue. Have a couple of leads to work, hopefully it wont take long...

If you do decide on the CXRacing kit, below are a couple of things to keep in mind:

Get a FIPG material for the exhaust manifolds. The CXRacing aren't the flattest (about what you would expect from any other aftermarket headers). I got a tube of Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker.

You will have to remove some exhaust studs to fit the new headers in and re-install once headers are in place. Will need some extra hands. Also need some high temp locktite for the studs.

The stock cross-over pipe will not slide out despite what Toyota says. Cut it off on the driver side and slide it out on the passenger side from under the truck.

You will need a new exhaust system or adapter plate for the 3" CXRacing down pipe. Either way, its a trip to an exhaust shop.

The waste gate isnt routed back into the exhaust so you will need custom work to do this as well. Or you can leave it and dump raw exhaust. Probably sound interesting as well.

Ive heard its very difficult to get the cross over pipe to line up. Dont torque down the headers until you have the cross over connected. It has a "flex" section but its not very flexible. Needs some elbow grease.

A lot of work for oil pump OCD, good luck !

For the headlights I got some of these:

$4 Hella H4 100/80W High Wattage Bulb, 12V

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBLKW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I get the truck back Ill let you know how they look

 

Divorced east gates are the shit.

However...LOUD AS FUCK. but..you'll always know when your in boost hahaha

 

I've been thinking about this a lot. I'm not looking to make 300rwhp (would be siick thoough), I just want it to have a bit more. Less shifting up I70 and whatnot. Thinking about the CX Racing kit, a 97 ecu like you, and just about similar boost levels...at least to get it going...

If you have yours still hooked up, any chance we can meet up and go for a spin? I'd definitely be interested in the different feel on the butt dyno.

 

You wouldn't be worried about those CXRacing manifolds cracking? I'd be afraid those damn things wouldn't last for the long haul. Just from what I've heard of CXRacing...

 

I dont think it will be an issue. Its a log style manifold which trades performance for reliability. The tube style headers tend to crack after a time due to the intense heat. These seem pretty solid and the welds a very clean. Not the best quality but def not the worst.

 

Yeah sure bro... but maybe after I get the work done to her that I half to. Front wheel bearing, rear springs and struts, relocation of my oil return pump (it's kinda above the oil drain on the turbo so under max boost and high RPM, it tends to leak in my intake a tiny bit and leach power), and change my spark plug wires. Its also too loud and it sounds like there's an F14 under my truck.

It's definitely not a ride I would want to give to someone with high expectations (although the way my truck sits it could leave the same exact NA truck in the dust). For a half ass attempt to gain 50+ HP as cheaply as possible (which is where I was) then a rear mount is great, but for a tiny bit more work and around a K you can have a much more reliable truck with much better performance. I can't imagine this setup having the potential to be "loads" better than a TRD S/C... even with a good tune and fuel mods

 

Ha! And I thought I was the only one buried in a "to do" list!