2014 Taco Viper alarm help!

Hello all, asking for help here on my 2014 Toyota Tacoma Passenger Door Lock.
I followed the wire diagrams available on the Internet. They all say to locate the Blue/Red wire & the Blue/Black wire in the driver kick panel. Found them and hooked up according to the 5-Wire diagram below. The driver door works perfect. It Locks & Unlocks correctly. The passenger door does Zero-Zilch-Nada.
I pulled the passenger door panel and tested the same wires (Blue/Red & Blue/Black) that are located in the driver kick panel. They are the same wires. Just not getting the +/- pulse. This is not my first time using the 5 wire relay setup. What am I missing?
Has anyone had this issue and figured out how to make the passenger door work correctly?
Thanks for your help!

 

try pressing the unlock button 2 times in a row. Normally you have to program it to double pulse on some cars

 

also my wiring guide(direchtechs) says
factory arm-purple
factory disarm-green/black

lock-blue/white
unlock-grey
This wire is only needed if the door locks do not function with the aftermarket system while the vehicle is running. All other times just use the factory alarm disarm wire.

also there should not be a reason you need to be using a 5 wire relay
so i suggest to use the factory arm/disarm wires.

 

Thanks gumbeyyy – So my Tacoma does not have the factory alarm/keyless system. I was using the wiring info from readyremote.com. I tried the lock-blue/white & unlock-grey and did not have any response. My wiring diagram has the same side note as yours – ‘This wire is only needed if the door locks do not function with the aftermarket system while the vehicle is running. All other times just use the factory alarm arm wire.’
The note says while engine is running. Do you think the blue/white & gray only work when engine is running?

 

nobody else have any ideas?

 

did you diode isolate the lock controls?

 

I never had to do that on a door lock before, shouldn't be necessary.

 

You might be tapping into the factory alarm arm/disarm. Try tapping into the door lock/unlock wires. For door triggers you will need 3 diodes because there are 3 door triggers you need the alarm to connect to: driver/passenger/and the rear passenger doors. Alternative is to connect it to the dome map light but I rather get the doors.

 

Since this truck doesn't have keyless entry from the factory, does it have the wiring for factory arm/disarm?

 

What is your alarm set to output as your door lock/unlock? Negative pulse or Positive pulse?

 

I think I see what might be the problem, you need to program your alarm to do a double pulse unlock.

 

I just installed an Omega AL-2050 system in my 2012 TRD double cab and I can assure you diode isolation is necessary on a Toyota. Also, I know that the door trigger wires are in the left kick panel somewhere, but I could not find them, so I just ran a 2 wires to the passenger side kick panel and found the trigger wires there. These alarm manufacturers keep everything secret! They have vehicle specific wiring diagram that they will make available to 'professional installers', but they won't make them available to DIY installers. It's a crock of sh_t!...

 

Well I am going to try the double pulse thing first, then I will report back

 

Or you can just hook up the door trigger to dome light so that way you wont have to isolate.

dome light-blue dash fuse box.

Also what kind of alarm are you doing.

 

The alarm is a Viper 3105V.

 

I just completed a Compustar ft6000as and I programmed the double pulse to unlock all doors. Works fine.

 

I don't see how this will help with his door lock/unlock issue.

 

It doesn't just stating that isolating is not necessary.

ALso you should not need to have to use that 5 wire diagram as the lock/unlock (green/blue) should have to just be connected

 

I see what you're saying, you were referring to my post about the diodes on the door triggers, quoting would be a lot easier to follow. I did it just the way had said for the door triggers and it seems to work.