ND4's Bed Lights and Bed 12v socket

Well the mod bug started to hit me on my new taco and i shortly realized that having some bed lights would be tits.

So 14.99 for 5M of these crazy bright waterproof LED strips
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...28960989&tpos=unknow&ttype=price&talgo=origal

Then some connectors to connect the different sections together
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310813499012?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Some rocker switches
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400608925619?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

And while i was going to do it may as well add a 12v socket to the bed of my truck
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310833322173?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


Pair all that with a direct from the battery 10AWG wire that goes down the firewall along the main wire loom and pops out by the back cubby hole we got ourselfs some power! With a lil radio shack power block and a couple of holes cut in my cubby box we have a base to power our LED bed lights from.

I then cut the LED strips to length soldered some of the connectors linked to above and drilled some small holes under the bed rails for the wires to run through. the pigtail connectors were just long enough to run outside of the bed around the corners at the front of the bed and back into the bed so there are no hanging wires within the bed itself.

Originally i put the switch on the front side of the cubby hole next to the 12v socket but realized that was a long reach and i had to open the cover up to get to it. So i moved the switch to the back of the cubby box and drilled a hole through the cover so you could stick your finger into the cubby box and flick the switch (let the fingering comments ensue)

The Results.

Hot and ground coming up from the frame area behind the rear driver wheel well.


Cubby hole cover with the fingering hole drilled in it.


And the switch inside of the cubby hole - sorry no pic of the 12v socket but its on the front side of the cubby hole


And her all lit up

 

Nice work.

 

Now would there be an easy way to hook up a switch to the tailgate so when you open the tailgate, the box lights turn on?

 

After a couple of weeks, how is the self-adhesive on those light strips holding up to damp and changes in temp?

 

I have had the led strips in my truck for about 3 months now and I had to go back and re tape in some spots. I fortunately had a roll of 3M automotive tape sitting in the garage. I cut .5" x .5" squares and put them at the beginning and end of every led strip. Since then, I had no issues with the lights drooping.

They have been in 30-85degree weather and in the rain.

 

No issues but I did use the clamps pictured in the lights on pic at the ends of each strip to make sure they didn't come off left them on for about 2 days and every time I got in my truck for those 2 days I would go around and apply pressure to the entire strip with my hands.

You could easily add a lil push button style switch that would switch em on with the tailgate.

 

@ ND4: You have had some great ideas to date! I have purchased the materials (all not here yet) and will light my bed. Too bad there is not a constant 12v to the tow connector to tap into.

The LED strip was smaller than I expected. When cutting the strip for each section am I correct in assuming the plug connector ends are soldered to the LED attachment points? Also at the end of the 3rd section is a jumper required across the final LED to complete the circuit?

I will use your three position switch and break the grounds with one side through a tailgate switch so the lights can be -on-, -off-, or -on when tailgate opens-.

Did you get your connector pins removed? It looks harder than it should be.

 

The LED strips are setup so that you dont need to jump them or anything, just supply a positive and a negative feed to either end of the run you are doing. Yes you must solder onto the pads of each run, I found it easiest to cut each length with some scissors at the proper length / proper cutting spot. then use a very sharp new box cutting blade to expose the solder pads of the LED strip. Then you must solder to the proper positive and negative side. Also the connectors with pigtails were BARELY long enough to connect on the outside corners of the bed, i had to pull up the plastic and use the stake pocket for access to plug them in.

Essentially think of the LED strips as being two long wires, a positive and a negative, with the LED's connected between them for power (LED's in parallel)... and not a bunch of LED's in series.

As far as the setup, i am not to fond of having a switched ground for stuff like this as that would mean there is always a positive that is hot and could potentially short out somewhere.

As far as the connector are you talking about the Defroster one? i got it out but ended up forcing it out.

 

Thanks I'll revist that wiring concept.

OT: Yes, I was referring to your pin issue in the Defroster plug. I did the Map Light/Dome Light mod and ended up switching a couple of those pins, but can't really tell you how ... it WAS difficult. I know the grey insert in the plug came out, then (if I recall) I used a tiny, thin jeweler's screwdriver over the top of the male contact from the front to lift the little locking plastic tab so the pin could slip out the rear. It took much longer than I would have ever thought. The good news was that they snapped back quite positively for reassembly!

 

You can consider hiding a mercury switch to the tailgate, but whats to keep it from running down your battery if the load requires the gate down on an overnight trip.

 

An inline spdt on off on switch.... So you can select on, full off, on when tailgate is down.

 

The 3-position switch ND4 used is great for that. Rather than a mercury switch running more wires through the tailgate I found a door switch which I mounted right above the rubber bumper on the LH side. Lots of access with the tail light assy removed.

 

Nice you got pics of that?

 

I am still completing the wiring, but have the 3-position and tailgate switches installed (pic attached). Am waiting on the connector wires to solder to the LED strips (what lengths did you cut your strip to?). Decided to use an add-a-circuit fuse to the door lock fuse point to draw the power. The wire is in place, just needs to be connected at each end.

 

nice, thats super clean!

 

Just found my project for next weekend!

 

subd

 

Subd

 

Looks great!

 

yes. i did it previously. you need a pin switch, and i'd recommend a metal one. install it inline on the ground wire. when the tailgate is open, the lights get the ground connection and they turn on. close the tail gate and they lose the ground connection and turn off.

example-

$7 Parts Express 2" Adjustable Pin Switch - Universal - Gold - Pin Switch - Plunger - Manual - Surface Mount - Normally Closed - 1-way - 1 Count

http://www.amazon.com/CES-2-Adjusta...TF8&qid=1420325653&sr=8-3&keywords=pin+switch



and OP-

good luck with your connections in the cubby. i didn't read the thread to see if you sealed them up somehow, but i've had 12v outlets crap out in less than a year from rain/road salt/etc spraying up on them. I'd suggest coating them in liquid electrical tape or something.