Tranny flush at 100k. Should I?

The truck has 161k on it, and I have no records past 70k miles. I don't even know when the timing belt was done, but seeing as it is a non-interference engine I'm pushing it to 180k. I figured to do trans fluid at the same time. The 99 takes Dex III, and the trans shop said he would do whatever I wanted to put in, he says he would suggest a good sythetic, but Dex III has gotten so good over the past years that it wouldn't make too much of a difference. Now as far as any risk from not doing it with a machine, I would imagine any screw ups would be covered by the shop. If not lawyers would definitely be involved

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/out.php?url=http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/login
Create an ID, plug in your VIN, and it should show all dealer service, as well as any DIY service that the previous owner manually logged.

$90 for a flush seems reasonable. Depending on the trans model, it may need up to 11 quarts.

I wouldn't sweat the filter change. The filter is not a cellulose or fabric element like some of the GM filters were, it is simply a brass or stainless screen that can be rinsed while the pan is off. Filter reinstall is a pain on some models.

 

Actually no...

GM replaced Dex-III with Dex-VI in 2006 as standard fill, and at the time, they were making a lot of noise about no longer licensing Dex-III, meaning that it would be flat out unavailable. Dex-VI was supposedly compatible.

But... we still see Dex-III on ATF bottles in stores, so GM is apparently still licensing the name... but the specification itself was abandoned in 2006 and there have been no changes or improvements since.

And Dex-VI is an inferior product.

 

That's where i got the info from, but when i click on the 30K and 60K services it won't load (they're the only 2 that don't), it's a great tool for me to use to keep track of all the maintenance.

I thought it was.

OK, Thanks.
So all i'd need to do is drain and drop the pan, pull the filter (screen) and rinse?
I assume i'd rinse with water and make sure it's completely dry before reinstalling it?
Also do the manual states that you need to use the toyota FIPG for the gasket, would RTV work? Which one, the hi-temp or oil resistant?

 

So what are you getting at? To run Dex IV? Or III?

 

If you pull the screen, may as well replace it.
Reinstallation is a pain.
The rest of the known universe uses a simple gasket and a couple of bolts. Toyota uses an O-ring inside a tube.
If all goes as planned, you remove the screen, reach inside the tube and remove the o-ring, and install the new filter with the o-ring already on the outside of the tube.

PM 'Bama and ask how often it goes that easily

If you are going to have the shop run the flush, I'd just have them change the screen as well while they're in there. They'll have it up on a lift, which makes it a lot easier than trying to do it with the valve body 3" from your nose.

Not water... solvent... but not knowing what common solvents are compatible, I would run ATF... just pour a quart into a bowl, submerge the screen, and agitate... but you probably are not going to find anything in the screen and just dropping the pan really should be enough.

FIPG is RTV (but it's $15)... Oil-resistant is perfect.

You want Dex-III in your '99.

There is no Dex-IV.
Toyota uses either Dex-III, T-IV, or WS.
GM moved up to Dex-VI in 2006 (skipped over IV and V, perhaps to avoid confusion with Toyota and other products).

Toyota's move to T-IV started around '00, different models switched different years. Tacoma was one of the later changes, I think '03.
Your dipstick will tell you what you need.
WS is the newest and is only used in the "sealed" transmissions that have no dipstick (4.0 for Tacoma).

 

Ok, I just got some lettering wrong haha. I'll probably run a synthetic, probably Mobil 1 since that's what I use for oil. Depending on the difference in fluid cost of course

 

I did mine a little early, around 60k. Still glad i did

 

I did the do it yourself flush shown on this site at 60K and dump the fluid in the pan (about 3 - 31/2 quarts every 20-25K from here on in.

It doesn't dump it all by a long shot but it does keep the fluid fresh.

 

Here's my .02 I was doing maintenance on my daughters Volvo XC70. I changed the plugs and air filter and did an oil chg. I checked the trany fluid and it looked dirty. So I figured it needed to be chg'ed. I was thinking of doing a flush and called two transmission shops in the area (AAMCO and AAA) I asked about doing a Flush and the cost. Both shops said because I had over 125k on the trany a flush may do more damage then help. They both recommended a drain and fill for $180. (WOW) They added that if the fluid is very dirty to change it again a year later w/another drain and fill. To save myself a few $$ I did the job myself, ($26) drained 3 1/2 qts and put back in 3 1/2 qts of clean ATF. To answer your question 100k or over I would do a drain and fill (plus filter chg). I have 53k on my taco and do not plan on chging the trany fluid til around 65k and I do a drain and fill plus filter chg. G/L

 

I do know that if your fluid is really bad, you're not even supposed to change it, much less flush because usually the trans is already toast. But even if you have over 100k miles, and your fluid is good, it won't hurt to change it all.

 

OK, thanks for the info.

 

Couple drain and fill's with the fluid desinated on dip stick or in manual and be done with it. If pan isn't leaking then don't bother it. Screen/filter doesn't need changing.

 

What about the magnets in the bottom?