Colorado B.S. Thread

I don't know... I'm sure it's not a lot, probably negligible but I've seen people take a band saw to them and cut slits down the threads because I guess they stick up into the pan a bit. Since I have a band saw and it would take about 3 minutes, I think I'll probably do it.

 

That's what I've heard, but I have 0 experience with that type of rock... but just curious as he seems to be doing everything and looks to be on the same size tires/lift I am.

Just need to get my sliders built and I'll be as good as I'm gonna be... but damn I'm excited

 

I've mtn biked and 4x4'd all over Moab, it's extremely difficult to lose traction on the "slick" rock, lol. You'll go up and down shit that will blow your mind. Make sure and tie down any loose crap in the cab cause it will move around. Nothing sucks more than that empty water bottle rolling under the brake pedal....

It's like somebody applied grip tape to the surface of the planet.

 

you going this year? and sounds AWESOME! and yeah I'm planning on an interior mod to hold my stuff

 

Not this year, too many things going on for myself.
So as an example this one year on Fins and Things I had a cooler strapped to the backseat, using a ratchet strap. Full of ice and bottled water .
Going down one of the runs the cooler stayed but the lid opened and everything poured out. That's how steep you will get.

 

How is the tent camping in Moab? Mainly wondering if you can pitch a tent <insert sexual joke here> without having to worry too much about critters (snakes, scorpions) bothering you.

 

I've tent camped every year except the last two times I went. Tight zippers ftw.
Motel 6 has a pool.

 

Zippers at the tops and never leave your tent unzipped. That's good practice anyway.

 

Bottled Water huh...

and yeah, since I NEVER have anyone in my extra cab... I'm raising the floor and putting hatches for acess to the storage area... basicly extending the current spots where the jack and tools are forward to the seat and up another 6"... creating mount points for a cooler or whatever... got everything just need to find some quality brown carpet.

 

Not much danger from any large insects but sand fleas with eat you alive if you spend too much time sitting on the ground outside or walking through tall weeds/bushes. I would make sure my tent is pretty well sealed.

 

The gnats last year were almost unbearable. That's why I'm bringing a god damn bug net this year. For the hammock and for my head/neck.

 

good to know, I am sleeping in the back of my truck with my soft topper...

 

Ran across this...thought it might be useful as things start to open up.

http://bushducks.com/tripreps/passopen.htm

This the one I usually use

http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/f...et Determined.Html&ttype=detail&pname=Arapaho

 

BEST 23 BUCKS ever spent!! no more reaching my fingers up into the skid plate and trying to not drop the drain plug into hot oil

 

Anyone have a HC rear bumper with swingout know how much their bumper weighs? I made up a material list and did the math: 213lbs

 

Did you use any sealant on the threads or on the crush washer since this thing will be on there forever?

 

nope, just put a crush washer on from the dealership instead of the felt looking one that comes with the fumoto valve and called it good after giving it a good tightening, ill check its tightness every oil change, this next change will be my first use out of the fumoto so im stoked to not have to worry about spilling oil or splashing.

I never thought about how far the threads stuck up into the oil pan though, id be curious if it wasnt draining the whole oil pan. Id also be afraid of putting slits in the threads and weakening the structure of how it mounts into the oil pan, that would suck to have it break out on the highway or some shit

 

I used the included gasket as it was engineered for the Fumoto valve specifically whereas the crush washer isn't and is engineered to be changed out every few thousand miles or so. For me it was peace of mind to just use what was included with their product since to me it seemed they would know the application better than anyone else. I'm sure either one will be fine though.

 

For how long have you had yours?

 

I would give it a test first before cutting.

• Install valve and add oil.
• At next oil change drain oil through valve first then remove valve and see how much is left. If it is negligible then leave the valve alone.
• Otherwise measure the thickness of thread in the pan before cutting and make sure to only cut down the distance minus the thickness of the pan threads.

.02 cents.