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Scheduled Maintenance (2nd gen) - 30,000 - 60,000 - 90,000 miles

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by harshest, Mar 19, 2009.

  1. Feb 20, 2014 at 4:29 PM
    #101
    mike mudry

    mike mudry Mike in AZ

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    Billy's set at 2.5", Avid Offroad light bar, N Fab steps. Weathertechs. Rear view mirror relocation bracket. Rear sliding window bar. 265 70 18. Upgraded sound system.
    Just completed this and included MAF, throttle body, plugs, air and cabin filter, driveline lube and torque, transfer case, and both difs. It feels good to do this myself and save the cash. I appreciate the knowledge gained via TW and this thread. The only thing I found hard was the left drivers side plug. Getting the wire off was difficult.
     
  2. Feb 20, 2014 at 4:38 PM
    #102
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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  3. Feb 27, 2014 at 12:37 PM
    #103
    SR5808

    SR5808 Well-Known Member

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    Tint/ weathertech visors/ truxedo tonneau cover/ color matched front emblem and door emblems/ Clazzio Leather seat covers/debaged tail gate/depo black tail lights/color matched front grill/led headlights/ Pioneer Avh-5800/ Alpine Type R Front and Rear speakers/ Alpine Pdr-v75/ JL audio 10tw3/ Mr. Marv Custom sub box/amp rack/ Stealth Custom Series Stealth 6 17x8.5/ 265/70/17 Nitto terra grapplers...
    nice. Definitely subbed
     
  4. Mar 4, 2014 at 9:03 PM
    #104
    oneshot808

    oneshot808 Well-Known Member

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    Wet Okoles/Weather tech all around, LED's +HIDS, 6"Fabtech w/ Fox front & rear
    ok. noob question:

    1.Can someone snap a pic of the actual bolts needed to tighten for the properler shaft? I know the diagram shows me the part, but it would be nice to know that I am looking at the right thing...


    2.My truck is about to hit 70K. I did the diff and trans fluid at 40k.
    Should I be doing this again?

    3. Radiator flush? yay or nay?

    I will be doing-
    MAF/Throttle
    Tire rotation
    plugs
    upgrading my brakes with new rotors/lines and new rear drums/shoes.


    this month soon...

    Thank you.!
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2014
  5. Mar 5, 2014 at 5:54 AM
    #105
    SpacemanSpiff

    SpacemanSpiff Well-Known Member

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    1. Can't help you with this - no pics...but someone should come along shortly...
    2. Differential - yes; Trans every 60K - since you did that at 40K, do that again at 100K
    3. IIRC, the radiator is to be done at 100K unless it has issues.

    Why are you upgrading the rear shoes? The stock one work great and don't need replacing until well over 100K...
     
  6. Mar 5, 2014 at 5:59 AM
    #106
    slcsez2000

    slcsez2000 Well-Known Member

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    Exterior: -Current Suspension- Icon extended travel front struts w/ 700lb coils Icon extended travel Remote Resi rear shocks Dakar leaf pack Icon Tubular UCAs with covers Icon neoprene shock covers -OEM Roof Rack -2 fold down cup holders in bed -Bed bottle opener -Access lite rider roll up tonneau cover -AFE Prodry air filter -Pop and lock bed lock -Rear differential breather relocation mod (behind tail light) -Aeroturbine 2525XL Muffler Armor: -SOS Concepts bolt on sliders W/ kick out -SOS Concepts aluminum front bumper with full hoops -SOS Concepts Rear HC Bumper -SOS Concepts IFS/Mid skids
  7. Apr 16, 2014 at 11:03 AM
    #107
    BenMara

    BenMara That Asian RedNeck

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    TRD Blower, Ham Radio, DBA T2 Rotors
    Can anyone point the grease Zerks on the 4x4? Im lost to were i need to grease
     
  8. Apr 16, 2014 at 11:12 AM
    #108
    TacoCat

    TacoCat These pretzels are making me thirsty

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    Johnny-5
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    There are two on the front drive shaft. One at the front of the shaft and one at the rear. You may need to remove the little heat shield to get to the rear zerk. There are three more on the rear drive shaft. One at the front, one at the middle, and one at the end of the shaft. Move the truck forward or reverse to set them at an easy angle to get to them with the grease gun.
     
  9. Apr 16, 2014 at 6:18 PM
    #109
    BenMara

    BenMara That Asian RedNeck

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    TRD Blower, Ham Radio, DBA T2 Rotors
    Thank you sir
     
  10. Aug 1, 2014 at 10:31 AM
    #110
    4WDTrout

    4WDTrout Perpetually dreaming of tall trees & rivers

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    Total Tacoma nOOb.
    The driveshaft on my 2008 DCSB doesn't have zerk fittings...
    Any ideas?
    Possibly the driveshaft was replaced?
     
  11. Sep 14, 2014 at 11:34 AM
    #111
    Thelgord

    Thelgord The Pantagonist

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  12. Sep 21, 2014 at 10:49 AM
    #112
    Toceans

    Toceans Well-Known Member

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    You said it brother, hope it went well
     
  13. Oct 17, 2014 at 3:27 PM
    #113
    BenMara

    BenMara That Asian RedNeck

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    So all the zerk fittings are at each universal joint
     
  14. Nov 20, 2014 at 2:35 AM
    #114
    Jose Collazo

    Jose Collazo Member

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    None. Up to now. Probably considering doing some light modifications to increase hp. No idea how to get there.
    Hi to all! I am not usually posting threads in any forum. However, need to say that the last time I did (selling full set of new Bilstein Shocks it worked- sold the parts-everyone happy). This one is different given the fact we are talking about PM. My truck is a 2006 2WD Pre runner (75,000 miles) and I'm wondering if I should do any transmission oil change - vehicle book calls for inspection at 45k (from the top of my head - I don't have the book with me) on the street - friends tell me I should go ahead and replace the oil. I am not in favor of doing any change - my truck is a light duty one - just traveling at an ave. of 9k miles/year (no dirt roads, no trailing, etc). Hope to hear some good advice from knowledgeable source. On the other items - checking diff. grease I have not checked either - this one I will be doing this w/e. Best to all!
     
  15. Nov 20, 2014 at 7:04 AM
    #115
    Thelgord

    Thelgord The Pantagonist

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    SOS Rocksliders, All Pro skid plate, Procomp add-a-leaf, Bilstein 5100 @ 1.75", CB, high-lift jack
    All oils break down over time. Will your truck explode if you don't change it? Probably not, but replacing fluids is very rarely a bad thing.
     
  16. Apr 30, 2015 at 9:01 AM
    #116
    Chux

    Chux Pura Vida

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    Click on my Build
    Subd.
     
  17. Apr 30, 2015 at 10:11 AM
    #117
    frizbal

    frizbal Well-Known Member

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    Just did rear/front diff and t-case yesterday. I'd suggest buying 7 quarts. I had to run out and buy an extra last minute by the time I got to the front. The rear took more than I thought it would.
     
  18. May 29, 2015 at 12:05 PM
    #118
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I recently hit 100k miles on my Tacoma. Recently I did the following....
    • Front/rear diff, and transfer case fluids.
    • Engine oil and filter.
    • Sparkplugs.
    In addition to those, I did the transmission fluid about 30k miles ago so I should be good there. I had a failing rear u-joint replaced under warranty (extended warranty) and I did my pads and rotors. My shocks were replaced at 50k miles when I installed my lift so they are fairly new too.

    So I guess my question is....what else do I need to service? I feel like 100k miles is a milestone but there isn't much for me to do. I almost feel like I'm forgetting something big. Anything else I should inspect that typically goes wrong around that time?
     
  19. Jul 15, 2015 at 2:25 AM
    #119
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    Never waste your money past warranty to dealer maintain your vehicle. It has never been worth it for me or just about anyone I know. Even for my dad who has had some issues repaired on his Porsche.
    For the work you don't want to do yourself get a trusted relationship going with a local mechanic.

    Toyota Dealer wanted to rip my Mom off $2,000 for a 175K check up, which just included fluid changes.

    Thanks for consolidating a maintinence schedule. Makes things quite handy!
     
    TACOVRD likes this.
  20. Jul 15, 2015 at 2:28 AM
    #120
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    You are due for a timing belt around 90K. Shop around for a quote before doing it. I've been quoted anywhere from $500 to $750. I personally think if you want to keep the vehicle for another 100K do the belt change within a year or so. If not then you can let it go.

    Speaking of which has anyone here replaced a timing belt with a timing chain to avoid future replacement costs?
     

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