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Engine Bay LED Install

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Benson X, Sep 16, 2012.

  1. Sep 16, 2012 at 12:05 AM
    #1
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    Ben
    Olympia, WA
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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Here's my LED install for the engine bay. I wanted to illuminate the whole engine compartment and separately light up the winch area using one discreet switch.

    [​IMG]



    PARTS USED:

    (2) 12" Cool White Waterproof ribbons from Ozium.com (found HERE)
    (1) 6" Cool White Waterproof ribbon from Ozium.com (found HERE)
    (1) On-Off-On SPDT Rocker Switch (I used one exactly like THIS)
    (1) Add-A-Fuse (I used one like THIS)

    TOOLS NEEDED:

    Wire-Strippers / Crimpers
    Philips head screwdriver
    Flathead screwdriver
    10mm wrench -or- socket
    12mm wrench -or- socket
    Soldering Iron / Solder (optional)
    Butt Connectors
    14-16awg Wire (2-colors recommended)
    (1) Quick-Splice connector
    (1) 1/2" Ring terminal connector
    (1) 1/4" Ring terminal connector
    (3) .187" Female Quick-Connect terminals
    Heat-Shrink tubing
    Electrical Tape
    Coat Hanger / Wire-puller
    Zip-Ties
    Drill with 3/4" drill-bit -or- hole-saw
    LIGHT!!!



    STEP 1: Mount The LEDs

    !!!Disconnect the Battery!!!

    I mounted the (2) 12" LED strips on the underside of the hood (First, clean the mounting area with water and/or rubbing alcohol, let dry)
    [​IMG]


    Connect the (2) 12" strips using the pre-wired pigtails. You can clip off the last pigtail on the passenger side, as it will not be used.
    [​IMG]


    I stuck the 6" strip on the underside of the hood latch shield thing. Again, clip off the passenger side pigtail, and leave the driver's side.
    [​IMG]




    STEP 2: Install the Switch

    Using a skinny flat head screwdriver, remove all the clips on the top plastic cover above the radiator.

    Drill a 3/4" hole on the driver's side of the plastic piece, centered above the last hole.
    NOTE: I had to make small notch at the 9 o'clock position of the hole (driver's side). Test fit the switch

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    STEP 3: Wire it up

    *I used (2) Male pigtail plugs that came with the LED strips. The WHITE is the +POS and the BLACK is the GROUND

    For the hood LEDs:
    I soldered my +POS and GROUND wires to the male pigtail that came with the LED strips and heat shrinked them. Run the +POS wire until it reached the switch. I then measured the GROUND until it reaches the common ground by the battery (near the fusebox).

    Leave yourself a few extra inches and trim the wire.

    After you have your wire lengths measured and cut, run them through the recesses of the hood, and out the hole in the bottom corner near the windshield on the driver's side.
    [​IMG]


    I wrapped the wire in electrical tape near the hole, and pulled it back through to insulate it and keep it in place. I also used my Relentless CB mount to keep the wire from getting pinched in the hood and insured it wouldn't move.
    [​IMG]

    After insuring the +POS lead reaches the switch, crimp on a .187" female quick-connect terminal.


    For the winch LED:

    I plugged in the other pigtail and soldered a length of wire for the GROUND. This is going to the same ground point as the hood LEDs. Measure it and trim the wire.

    I crimped on the 1/4" Ring Terminal and connected this GROUND wire to the Hood LED GROUND using a Quick-Splice connector. Now all the LED strips share the same common GROUND point.

    On the +POS lead (white wire), I crimped on a .187" female Quick Connect terminal for the switch.


    For the 12v Battery Lead:
    I crimped on the 1/2" ring terminal on the in-line Add-A-Fuse and soldered an extension wire to reach the switch. Then I crimped on another .187" female Quick-Connect terminal to connect it to the switch. I used a 2 amp fuse.
    [​IMG]




    STEP 4: Clean it up & Plug It In

    After checking that all the wires will reach the switch and ground point, start tucking them in and cleaning them up with zip-ties, electrical tape etc.

    I tried to tuck the wires up into the fender area as much as possible, but be careful to avoid sharp edges and pinch points. Zip-ties and electrical tape came in handy here.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Give everything a once-over and plug it all in. Don't forget to put a fuse in.



    STEP 5: Turn Them ON!!!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]






     
    17Blue_Taco likes this.
  2. Sep 16, 2012 at 12:07 AM
    #2
    ToyotaKTMracing

    ToyotaKTMracing The Blue Warrior

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    Shay
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    285 BFG ATs, Custom dual exhaust system, 4" total lift (adjustable billies with 885 coils in front and AALs with 1" block in rear), interior LED lighting, LED reverse lights, LED license plate lights, fog light anytime mod, JVC KW-R500 stereo, 20" okledlightbars.com LED light bar, coverking seat covers
    That is awesome! It reminds me of my mod I just did. Mainly because of the last picture. Haha
     
  3. Sep 16, 2012 at 12:34 AM
    #3
    707tothe907

    707tothe907 Superior Member

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    Clean install!!

    I have a rats nest of wires surrounding my battery..
     
  4. Sep 16, 2012 at 12:34 AM
    #4
    BulletToothTony

    BulletToothTony You’ll have that on these big jobs.

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    Subd good job man :thumbsup:
     
  5. Sep 16, 2012 at 12:42 AM
    #5
    Forster46

    Forster46 Very nice how much?

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    6000k HID's, AUX Reverse Lights, 3" Rough Country Suspension Lift, Pioneer AVH-P4200 Double Din, Underglow and footwell Lights, Camo Seat Covers, Duralast Tool Box, Blacked Out Badges, Grill, Front Emblem, Midland CB Radio, Amber Strobes, POWER REAR WINDOW, cup holder LED's, Firestik 3' in bed, console divider, Ultragauge.
    Interesting. And nice switch location. I wouldn't have thought of that. No one will know it's there unless you're looking specifically.
     
  6. Sep 16, 2012 at 9:44 AM
    #6
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    Ben
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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Thanks man, the LEDs are badass. I thought about cruising around with the grille lit up, but then I remembered I don't live in S-Cal, and I drive a truck :p

    :thumbsup: I try to keep it tidy. I may look into getting an aux. fuse block before I add anything else.

    Thanks Tony, check out my other installs too!

    Thanks Nick. I like being able to control the lights independently. The install was pretty straight-forward. It took me about 1.5 hours total. Shit..it took me longer to the write-up...:eek:
     
  7. Sep 16, 2012 at 9:56 AM
    #7
    sfcadams

    sfcadams Retired Senior NCO

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    Awesome!
     
  8. Sep 16, 2012 at 11:43 AM
    #8
    brian

    brian Another Traitor

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    Nice writeup. For future reference, if you want an even cleaner install with less wire, remember that everything metal in your truck is a ground, assuming its bonded. You could have saved a few feet of wire by using the hood bolts, or whever the closest bolt/screw to your lights are. Looks good man. I'm starting on my bed LED's here in a few minutes, and seeing this gives me an idea to do some under hood lights as well. Just not enough light in this truck!
     
  9. Sep 16, 2012 at 12:21 PM
    #9
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    I agree :D

    Nice, thanks Brian. I may just be OCD, but I prefer to use the same ground point closest to the battery, same as my CB install.

    Good luck on the bed LEDs :thumbsup:
     
  10. Sep 22, 2012 at 6:09 PM
    #10
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Damn, I'm loving the LEDs! Combined with the interior (map/dome) it makes me want to swap all of 'em. Maybe do the gauges too :notsure:
     
  11. Feb 9, 2014 at 7:52 PM
    #11
    MrGrimm

    MrGrimm Mall Crawler

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    See build page
    Subscribed! I like the detail in this DIY.
     
  12. Apr 21, 2014 at 3:33 PM
    #12
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    You ever use a gas prop switch? I have a couple I am installing for my frone and rear lights/..
     
  13. Apr 21, 2014 at 3:45 PM
    #13
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    I was debating it, but I went with the 2 position switch so I can control the winch area or engine bay lights independently.
     
  14. Apr 21, 2014 at 3:51 PM
    #14
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    Tying mine into the Alarm system / Door switches too.
     
  15. Apr 21, 2014 at 8:51 PM
    #15
    skygear

    skygear                    

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  16. Apr 21, 2014 at 10:11 PM
    #16
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
  17. Apr 22, 2014 at 4:18 AM
    #17
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    Try again
     
  18. Apr 22, 2014 at 11:12 PM
    #18
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    Thought I'd share mine I did a while back. Did basically the same. Absolutely love all the light. And these suckers could stay on forever with minimal drain. I want to put another one under the engine for when I need to crawl underneath at night for whatever reason.

    2012-12-01_04-53-01_153_zps8af5ec93_dbb6b37d8f124df2f574244a0ddea364241b1e03.jpg
    IMG_20130723_201629_540_zps26a1a8fb_4b7a4da699dc32521ad2075d0b361d0bec0e7370.jpg
     
  19. Apr 23, 2014 at 8:53 AM
    #19
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Awesome, dude! That works like a charm, great job! :thumbsup:
     
  20. Apr 24, 2014 at 2:52 PM
    #20
    27Tacoma

    27Tacoma Member

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    How do you think they'll hold up due to engine heat? Most cheap LEDs can't sustain much heat, so they burn out quick, or flicker.
     

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