skygear's 2005 Desert Sand 4x4 DCSB

I am surprised you didn't need to do more trimming just to get them to fit. In the pictures it looks like you have the same amount of space I have with the 255 85 16's. Looks good though.

 

need, no. Not just to drive around. Any flexing, bbbbrrrrraaaaahahhhhpppppp. Yes, there needs to be more done. Within the week. Might be tonight.

 

Wonder if there's a couple 'cats' lying around somewhere

 

Whats wrong Meow?

 

I see what you did there....

 

Noticed my exhaust is not putting out the clear stuff. A little stinky too. Not like some of the vehicles I worked on lately. No smell and water coming out.

 

You would throw a code if your cats were bad

Don't you need to pass emissions up there each year like Gaylifornian?

 

Yep. Passed. But still. ~135k on them

 

i had 280,000 on the original cat in my 97 golf. still passes no problem.

 

Passing and being stinky are two diferent things. The varience they allow still leaves for bad fumes. Just me being picky though

 

The video is private. Is there a trick to getting it to play? How did you set it up?

 

Now I have no excuse for not getting my wiring taken care of under the hood.

LIGHT!!!!! = Warm white 5050 LED's w/ black PCB and a gas prop switch, with a few pieces of heat shrink tubing.

https://youtu.be/0TVZe-YInrg


was asked for a write up on this.

Ordered

* roll of the WARM White 5050 Black PCB Waterproof LED's 300/ 5m roll (eBay)
* Gas prop switch http://www.ameritoolmfg.com/ReadySwitch.aspx (eBay) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Prop-Li...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e83ace98a&vxp=mtr
* Heat Shrink Tubing
* Heat Gun/ Lighter
* Soldering Iron
* Solder
* Drill
* UniBit / Drill bits
* Braided Wire Sheath
* 18 guage Wire or thinner
* Redline Gas Prop hood kit


http://www.truckoutfittersplus.com/store/topper_parts_dome_lights_brake_lights.htm

All the LED's are waterproof, cuttable, and have an adhesive back.

Without a measuring tape, I held up a piece and measures where I wanted it to go. Cut it and soldered the end up for power. Using a piece of Heat Shrink Tubing (HST) I sealed the opposite side to maintain its 'waterproof'.



taking the Red and Black 18 gauge wire, I threaded it through the sleeving.



- So on to the Redline Tuning kit. Install it, and then use a piece of HST with the internal waterproof sealer. Home Depot has it in the electrical isle. HST the bottom part of the shock where I did.



then install the Prop Switch with ~6" of wire hanging off. You will need a small piece of tubing or rubber to stick around the shaft of the Prop in order for it to properly grasp. I positioned mine @ ~ 1" - 1.5" from the bottom of the shaft.



Now onto the drilling. I made 2 holes using my UniBit. One right about center where I wanted to run the wire from the LED's and the other at the bottom near the hood hinge. No it is not pretty, but I am cleaning it up. Painting it and De burring it.



Solder up the new harness you made to the LED's, heat shrink it all together to tidy up the ends and you are ready to pull the wire through the hood. If you look, there is a hole in the side of our hoods. I pulled out the wire through that hole then dropped it through the hole again to reach the bottom hole. Using a paperclip, I made a hook and pulled the wire through.



Splitting the loom, to allow the switch to be integrated into the braided harness I made. I cut the negative wire and soldered each end up then heat shrunk it. Pulled it all back into the loom, and I have plans to 'loop' the wire onto itself and make it a little more tidy.



Wire it up to POWER, or a fuse block, whatever you please. I will also be wiring this into my alarm and door switches so the lights all come on at the same time.



Last but not least, just route the wires where you are comfortable with them. Adjust the height of the prop switch to turn the lights on and off at the hood height you are happy with. I wanted mine to turn on as soon as I popped the hood. Thats why mine turn on so low. Leaves no play for the future when I do the rest of the Alarm install.

 

Damn... I was hoping that was just an end you added to your redline struts... I don't want to replace a whole strut just to have a switch...

 

No, it is an attachment. you do not need to replace the whole strut. Give me 10 min and check the thread.

 

Ok, now have a look.

Ebay has a guy selling them, -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Prop-Li...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e83ace98a&vxp=mtr

 

Oh! Awesome! I may have to look into this more then! Thanks!

 

Could always grab a micro switch like what is on the inside. Use a spacer, piece of metal, some wire, a hose clamp, and a small piece of hose would give you the exact same results.

 

Will be doing the same to the Camper topper when the second one comes in the mail. Already ran the LED's in the Topper. The switch is the final piece of the puzzle.

 

I used a mercury switch on the hood, and a magnet switch on my topper. Much happier with the mercury though. It was $8 as opposed to the $6 for the magnet switch. It appears the magnet is "working" itself in, as it seems to work better the more it's used.

 

[QUOTE="OldManTan";8554223]I used a mercury switch on the hood, and a magnet switch on my topper. Much happier with the mercury though. It was $8 as opposed to the $6 for the magnet switch. It appears the magnet is "working" itself in, as it seems to work better the more it's used.[/QUOTE]

I have a small box full of mercury switches/ thermostat switches. I put one in there before. Boy, every bump, I could see lights flickering. Pulled over for it once too. Learned my lesson there.

looked into the magnet switches too. liked the idea, just know in my topper, i cannot always get it to latch properly. knowing that, for my application, it wouldn't be appropriate.

Got any pics of your setups?