Show off your Mountain Bike!!!

Kona has been stepping things up lately, with a more real suspension, lighter and (hopefully) stronger frame construction, as well as higher quality alloys. I have a good friend on a Process 111 or whatever it is, and he enjoys it quite a lot. BUT, these two bikes are surprisingly very different.

The Giant will be more stable at speed, it has a 67 degree HA, and a 17.3" chainstay length, while not terribly long, giant is limited by their dual-short-link design of the Maestro suspension to having longer stays. I can vouch as to the solid design of their suspension; it's very stable in the climbs and reasonably active and resistant to braking forced while descending.

So the Giant would climb, in some circumstances, more poorly than the Kona, your front end is slacker than the Kona, which means the front wheel may tend to wander on steeper stuff.. but this also means more stability at speed than the Kona. The Kona's HT angle is 68 degrees, one degree of difference (more important than it may sound). The Kona will want to wander less on the climbs, and will more easily navigate tight switchbacks than the Giant.

The Kona will be more of a playful bike than the Giant, for several reasons:
- Shorter chainstays, the back wheel will be tucked in further beneath you, and as a result will be easier to flick around. This also results in a shorter wheelbase, for a more nimble ride, etc.
- The head angle is 1 degree steeper, it will have quicker, more responsive steering than the Giant will, which also means less stability on steeper descents, and less stability at high speeds (steep, flat, whatever).

The BB height isn't listed on the Giant, so not sure about that aspect.

Basically, they're both good options, but in order to decide I would recommend first deciding what your specific applications with the bike will be, how you like to ride, and what your terrain will be like.

 

That right there is good advice

 

Kona's new suspension design is new to them, but not new to market, it's been around for several years now. It's not the most laterally stiff, but it's not bad.

Giant uses Formula as their hub manufacturer, they're nothing special, they also don't suck in any substantial capacity. I'd put them in the "meh" category. Same thing with their rims, not sure who makes them, but they're nothing special.

Also, travel isn't always what you want with jumping. Take a look at what slopestyle riders are on now...hardtails (ouch). Jumping the Kona would take less speed (and a little more finesse, jump dependent), but would be more nimble in the air, the Giant would be less nimble and need a little more speed. More travel means a smoother landing, but doesn't make taking off any easier.

 

Also known as.... I spend too much time in this industry

 

I would say it differently. You sell a product and you are familiar with what's out there. There are very few shops that have that level of expertise.

I find that refreshing.

 

Rebuilt the fork last night -- little to no oil in the lower on the air spring side, so it seems that whoever built the fork put the oil in the wrong end. Thinking about calling Fox and asking them WTF. Stanchions are a little worn on the front, but I think that's my fault for not storing the bike upside down -- foam rings were pretty dry.

Anyway, it now feels like it should!

 

I should have tried to work out a deal for a new bike with the purchase of my Tacoma...this thread makes me salivate...

 

I agree with Ian on that one too, good shops need good people with good knowledge. Thats why I like my local shop so much, probably the only reason I go into the shop rather than buying everything online.

 

That is beautiful.

 

This is my Canfield Nimble 9. Shit is fun. Jealous of you guys who ride dh fully bikes, but terrain is a little different on the east coast.

 

Any chance you shot a picture of the wear? We've seen (for some unexplainable reason(s)) multiple forks come through with the bath oil in the air chamber.. not sure how, or why that's happening, if it's a mistake on Fox's part, or if the seal is somehow allowing oil to pass the air seals.

Typically stanchion wear occurs from lack of bath oil, dirty bath oil, and too much time passing between rebuilds. Fox's seals are really low friction, but that also allows the opportunity for dust, dirt and sand to get in... When that gets down between the bushings and the stanchion, that'll cause a fair amount of wear on the bushing and the stanchion. Best bet is to service annually (Fox recommends every 30hrs), to keep everything nice and clean inside.

 

No, no pictures. The fork takes 30ml of oil each side, and I sucked near that amount from the air chamber. There was very little in the bottom. I store the bike right-side up, so it is doubtful the oil would migrate past the seal into a pressurized chamber. But it was definitely the green bath oil, not the blue Float Fluid. My guess is that the person building the fork is just filling both chambers from the top. Oil was clean -- I do clean the stanchions and oil the seals every time out.

I am pretty sure the stanchion wear is my fault -- I waited too long to service the fork. I have 2 seasons on it, way more than 30 hours -- probably about 100. The wear was on the front of the stanchions where you can't see it unless you take the fork apart, so I never noticed it, and the foam rings were bone dry. Disappointed in myself for being an idiot. The wear is not terrible, but it was avoidable.

 

Stupid question, almost embarrassed to ask. I got a new bike and it came with the standard plastic pedals, I got some new pedals for clips and I am trying to swap them out. On the cheapos, there is nowhere for an alen wrench, just a plastic cap at the end. There is a nut next to the crank, but I couldn't get that to budge. Other than the nut I don't see anything to use to take it off.

Thoughts?

 

Is it Kashima? It also depends on the conditions you ride in. I've been meaning to call up Fox about that since I think we've seen half a dozen forks like that that have no signs of being rebuilt prior.

Fox has a reputation for using too little oil to keep the weight down on new forks, but in the past it's always been in the correct chambers.

 

The non-drive pedal is reverse threaded, and they should both have flats next to the crankarm for a 15mm wrench... typically your standard box wrench is too wide for most pedals, but you might be able to gently cram it in there.

My trick is to, with the bike upright and tool on the pedal, spin the cranks as if pedaling the bike to unthread both sides, and then backspin to install. But the 15mm flats are what you want to use.

 

15mm wrench? So the nut next to the crank is what to use?

 

yes.

 

No Kashima. I don't remember where I heard about the oil in the air chamber, I think it was on my local MTB forum, but that was at least a year ago. I just didn't think to check mine. Running 85psi now compared to 70psi before, and the fork feels more plush.

I have always ridden Rock Shox (since the really early days of the polymer springs), and I love the Reba on my 29er. I may switch. Got any recommendations on a 120mm fork?

 

Thanks!

 

Banshee Rune and my single speed 29er