Electronic Cigs

I need to start adding some DI water to my 50/50 pg/vg base as well. It's so thick, and I clog up my coils about every 24 hours. I'll get one of the two coils to stop firing as strong, and I start getting the burnt taste. So, I dry burn my coils and change the cotton almost daily. 48 hours at most. Not a big deal, as it only takes me a couple minutes to get it all back to 100%. At least my coils are now lasting me a full month before I feel like changing them or they get hot/cold spots.

 

So when you make your own, when do you use the sucralose? I've seen one or two recipes that use it. So far, I've made four of my own. Orange Cream, butter rum, vanilla and peppermint. Only the Orange Cream recipe called for sucralose. It was good but it was super runny so I dumped some more VG into it (started 50/50).

 

Every flavor I make is something that requires a little bit of sweet to it. Sometimes the VG is enough sweet, other times I want more. I make my mix first, let it steep for a couple days most times, then test it on a dual coil sub-ohm setup to see how it hits. If it needs more sweet, I start adding drops to the bottle. Doesn't take much at all to really sweeten things. Normally for a moderate sweetness, I'll add 10 drops of sucralose to 30ml of juice. Some need only 5 drops, while others I've made take alot more. The fruit flavors don't take much at all, but the butterscotches, toffees, caramels etc can handle quite a bit without killing the flavor.

 

My ego Style pens are starting to die after about 6 months of heavy use, they only hold a charge for a few hours now, so looking to upgrade but want to maintain the simplicity and ease of using my tanks. It looks like the MVP would take a wider variety of tanks on top as opposed to the VTR that has the holder ring. Love the fact that the VTR can switch out batteries cause im guessing the MVP will need replaced in a year, but the MVP is in my current price range... Any input on the durability of the MVP or if there are comparable devices that wont break the bank?

 

Well, it depends if you still want variable voltage/wattage. If you dont mind not having that (which I don't) you can pick up a mech mod for really inexpensive. I used a kamry k100 with a protank2 for the longest time, and was great. just have to make sure you have the right ohm coils for it to perform the best. You can pick up a k100 for $40-$50. They run around 3.7v normal.

 

My two co workers both got some clones. A Poldiac mod, a Chi You mod, and they both got different Kayfun mods. the Poldiacs button immediately failed. The Chi You mods button became very hard to use after a few weeks, then decided to heat the top cap of the mod and burn some fingers. While the Chi You fried, it shorted the kayfun. One of the kayfuns did nothing but leak. It would drain a full tank over night, the other is working pretty well. I have never gotten a clone before. After that, I will not get one.

 

My first VV upgrade after using ego pen style batteries was the MVP and I love it. I still have it, and it has done well. I can get almost 2 full days out of one charge on it when running a single coil setup like a Protank II, or one full day running a dual coil tank like in iClear 30S. It's boxy, but it's very light and built like a tank for how light it is in the hand. You get variable voltage and wattage so you can really dial in for various ohmage coils, plus you get the added bonus of a USB-out so you can use it as a battery backup for your phone or small portable device. But, if you drop the MVP and you have a tank on it, there's little protection and you could break a tank or snap off at the threads. I dropped it a couple times and broke the glass on a Protank but it didn't hurt the MVP or the threading at all.

I went with the VTR later on because I like the recessed side tank setup for a much lower profile setup, and it goes higher in voltage and wattage. It's a heavy beast though, well over twice the weight of the MVP. But you get the ability to just swap out 18650's (unprotected flat tops only). I can get a full day easy out of just one battery on the VTR, but I always carried a charged spare just in case I vaped a lot that day.

The MVP won't fire if you run a sub-ohm coil. The VTR will fire a sub ohm but only down to about .860 ohms at most. I don't recommend either of these for setups where you build your own coils on a tank that is better suited for a mechanical mod.

I moved past variable voltage and now run a Smok Magneto mechanical mod and a Patriot clone tank with a dual coil setup at .5 ohms. Big vape, big flavor, but it's a dripping setup. I take my VTR with me on business travel though, because it's zero maintenance and stashes away in my laptop bag without leaking.

 

Did you get these backwards? I know I can run a .8 ohm coil on my MVP. Never tried a VTR though

 

Not backwards. They both say to not run a sub ohm coil setup on either of them, but some of them will run slightly sub ohm. It's against what the device circuitry is designed to do, which is to protect and not fire below 1 ohm. User beware on either device.

Regardless, you're not going to get high enough amps on either device going sub-ohm to fire more than a single coil hand-built setup unless you're using like 32 gauge wire for your coils.

The rule here is if you want to go sub-ohm, just use a mech mod and do it right.

 

Thanks for the feedback, i did end up with the MVP which was very reasonably priced and super easy to use, nice and hefty and the factory charge lasted 2 days. Confused now about watts vs. volts though... I only ever had variable voltage, so trying to find the right watt/volt setting for a clean vape, which kinda depends on the tank and juice from what ive seen from just tinkering. I will leave it on 3.7 volts and crank anywhere from 7 watts which is very light and clean, to about 9 which starts to burn on long drags, but on the same voltage, kinda confused but loving it!

 

Volts X Amps = Watts

You can't adjust one without adjusting the other.

I stick with adjusting the wattage because it's a consistent reference between coils of differing ohm loads.

 

Yeah I usually leave the volts at 4.6 or 5, and then just play with watts. Fresh coils I start at about 7 watts, and go up from there as they get weaker. Put in a new coil, and start all over again. Very easy to maintain.

With the MVP, you're stuck with the amperage output of the built-in battery pack. With the VTR, you can pop in something like an eFest purple that has 35A and you can get a strong hit on all sorts of tanks. Great for dual coils.

Pop one of those efests into a mechanical mod and it will blow your mind. Vape you can choke on.

 

I guess I don't understand this.
The way I understand it, batteries have a voltage rating and an amp/hr rating (or in the case of these batteries a milliamp/hr rating or mAh)

The 18650 batteries are rated at 3.7 volts and if my devices' volt meters are correct, the actual voltage ranges from ~4.1 volts when fully charged down to ~3.5 volts when they're "dead" and need to be recharged.
The mAh rating should be an indication of how long the battery will last. In theory a 2250mAh will last 2,250 hours while putting out 1 milliamp or 2.25 hours while putting out 1 amp.

I guess I figured that the VV/VW devices had a capacitor or something in them to supply a consistent wattage regardless of the charge of the battery.
My experience seems to bear this out as my different tanks seem to hit the same throughout the life of the battery given the same wattage setting, whereas a mechanical without a "kick" will hit differently throughout the charge life of the battery.

 

Wattage is a function of voltage and current (amps). It's also a function of resistance and voltage. They're not actually adjusting the wattage. They're either adjusting the resistance (change in atty ohms) or the voltage (since the resistance of the atty is unchanged, voltage has to change to achieve a desired wattage). The VW is just doing it automatically based on your desired wattage output (it senses the resistance and adjusts the voltage to achieve the desired wattage). With a variable voltage setup, the user has to do that manually to achieve a desired wattage.

The function for power from resistance changes is P=V^2/R. Power (watts) is the square of the voltage divided by the circuit resistance.

So for example with an eGo-Twist, my voltage can vary from 3.3V to 4.8V.

If I have a 2.5 ohm atty that means my wattage can vary from 4.36W (delivers 1.32 amps) to 9.2W (delivers 1.92 amps).

If I put in a 1.8 ohm atty then my wattage can vary from 6.05W (delivers 1.83 amps) to 11.25W (2.5 amps).

So say you have a variable wattage ecig and you like it set at 9 watts. If you have a 1.8 ohm atty the ecig adjusts the voltage automatically to 4.02 volts (delivers 2.2 amps).

If you then put in a 2.5 ohm atty the ecig would adjust the voltage to 4.74 Volts (delivers 1.9 amps).

With sub-ohm the issue becomes the amperage draw on the battery. Say I wanted 9 watts and a 0.7 ohm coil. The voltage would only need to be 2.5 volts but the battery would deliver 3.58 amps. If you exceed the amperage output capability of the battery it could destroy itself (explode).

 

.....and that all meshes with what I was saying. The part I don't understand is Seabass describing a battery as having 35amps

 

That's probably it's max current discharge rate. It has the capability of discharging 35 amps in a continuous burst. So for my 3.58amp example, he wouldn't have to worry about destroying the battery.

http://www.vapordna.com/Efest-IMR-18650-2500mAh-35amp-Purple-Battery-p/ac0304.htm

 

And there you go

I just notice the hit is stronger when I use those Efest batteries at 35A max discharge, versus using my Panasonic 3400mAh which I think max out at like 12A. On a fresh charge, there's a big hit difference.

I'll let the pro's do all the math. I'm just here to vape until my head implodes.

 

It'll actually only discharge at the rate of your voltage setting and coil ohms. Bigger discharge capacity doesn't mean it will pump out more amps given the same voltage/ohm settings. The rate of current discharge would be similar for any battery. The only way to get more amps is to lower the resistance, increase the volts or both. In order to discharge at 35Amps on a 0.5ohm setup, you'd have to set the voltage to 17.5 V. That's a wattage rating of 612 watts.

 

I'm only using my mech mod now, so amps makes all the difference to me running sub ohm dual twisted coils without a kick.

MUST

HAVE

POWAH

 

With sooo many choices out there , hows a guy to know wether he,s making a wise purchase for a starter kit ?
Having never purchased anything like this , how do you know what supplier to trust .
Plus living in Canada doesnt help much . Like the Toyota , I would like something dependable and upgradeable if I am going to try this . I see a lot of recomendations on the other side of the map , but not much on this side . Any of you fellow Canucks got any advice for a first time user ?