Wyoming B.S. Thread

Don't you know you are suppose to visit Florida in the winter and Wyoming in the summer?

You are doing it wrong.

 

Haha yeah I know. But seeing as how there is snow on my truck right now I think it is still acceptable to go to florida right now. And in the winter there are too many Canadians/ old people in Florida that can't drive

 

Isn't that the opposite of a "SnowBird" ?

 

Nope. Snow birds leave the north in the winter and head south to florida where it is warmer then return to their homeland in the summer where it is not as hot

 

Got it, I thought you were heading to Florida in the summer and returning for the Wyoming winters.

 

That is what hes doing...except I don't think its by choice to be here in the winter .

 

I think there are actually 2 bearing on the shaft which are oiled by a slinger. I am guessing it is the bearing closest to the flange end, not the pinion head end, that failed. It would be the one most vulnerable to a lack of oil situation because of where it is.

 

Well more or less. Since the school likes to have classes only when it is going to snow I end up summers in florida and winters here.

 

This may be true but there is know way to know now. Besides, we don't know which of the 2 bearing failed. I assume it wwas the outer one, but he has not said.

For visual aid. Here is an install kit that shows the bearings.



Here is a pinion shaft. The shiney spots on the shaft are where the bearings ride.

 

I laughed way too hard at that

 

Joey/Monte/Mike/Brady,

Are there any special tools I need to have when swapping the diffs? I am going to be using a friends place so the less I need to ask of him the better. I don't want to have to go to autozone to rent or buy a tool. And I do not want to leave the truck sitting for more than one night. I have the basics covered aside from a jack that works good enough to get the tires off the ground. Ill be ordering a better jack and 2 more jack stands.

 

No they don't. Its an ADD diff. It only spins once engaged. Thus, the reason he was able to drive it home once out of 4wd.

I really don't want to sound like an a-hole here, and I don't want to place blame anywhere either, but here are some facts:

The upper pinion bearing welded itself to the pinion and race. It can only do this without enough gear oil in it or none at all. It is impossible for this to happen with gear oil in it as it would NEVER allow it to get that hot. The bearing would have to reach nearly 2000 degrees with oil in it for that to happen. Not to mention wheeling it at slow speeds and angles would still allow for plenty of gear oil to move through the diff. Especially with climbing up stuff. Gear oil would have easily run to the back of the diff(even a high pinion) numerous times during a wheeling trip.

Now, I have been setting up gears in Toyotas for 10+ years. So, its not my first rodeo, and "if" it was a bad setup I will own it. But, when the evidence is clear that it was a lack of oil that did it, then my hands are tied. I warranty any 3rd for six months on parts and labor unless its been run low or without oil. Its easy to see the evidence. Unfortunately, this is the risk taken when I setup 3rds that were pulled from the vehicle by the customer.

Here is a pic of the upper pinion bearing. Notice the blue/purple hue on the bearing. This is evidence of EXTREME heat that is not possible if gear oil were present.



At this point, Joey and I have worked out the fix. We are splitting the cost of parts at my cost and I am setting it up again for free.

So, even though, I have my evidence, and I know that shit happens and I feel that I am helping him out with getting the rig back on the road for a minimal cost.

 

Fixed

 

Some sort of pry bar or maybe the wire trick for removing CV's will work, but you have to remove the side gear from the diff and put it on the new one when you move the ADD over as well (so some gasket maker is also needed to seal the ADD onto the new diff). The side gear is just held in by a C clip like CV's but Brant and I couldn't get it out and just took the old clamshell apart and were able to get it out. We weren't entirely sure what was holding it in at the time though so maybe you can save yourself some trouble and just pry/pull a little harder.

Do you have a flare nut wrench for the brake lines in the rear and enough gasket maker to seal the rear diff as well as brake fluid to replace any lost during the swap?

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head... Maybe some wire/bungee to hold the UCA/spindles up and out of the way when you are pulling the CV's.

 

anyone else getting snow?

 

It snowed a little here around 11-12 but has since stopped.

 

shouldn't need anything really special.

for the rear, you have to diconnect the drive shaft. Pull the axle shafts and then undo the diff. you should get some FIPG for the new diff to seal it up when you install it.

Front you have to drop skids, pull CVs, take off drive shaft, drop the diff. Remove the clam shell passenger side tube with the actuator(you'll have to undo some wiring too before this, just one clip). Swap the tube onto the new diff, RTV it. Install the new diff.

You know how to do RTV the right way?

You'll need diff oil too..you will have to change it after i think its 2k? or so. They need to be broke in so go easy on them the first 1k and still kinda easy the next 2k.

Hey scotty, any tips you can give me for doing diffs? im going to be doing 5.29s in my diffs in May or June myself.

 

I am assuming I know how to use RTV correctly.

 

Clean ALL the old stuff off, don't slop it on..you'll be good haha