45acp’s DIVORCED build!

3-link Ford '78 D60 front, 4-link Chevy '01 AAM1050 rear

They aren't. I just cut the pins out of the OEM door hinges and picked up the quick release pins at the local hardware store for like $2 each.

 

What coils are you going to use? I wanna link my rig so bad but I can get some pretty good gains using 1st gen Toyota rear leafs in the front and Chevy rear spring in the back.

My top door pins were drilled through and I just use a cotter pin to keep them in place. Unplugging the electrics for the doors is the most difficult part for me, especially on the passenger side because of the ECU etc etc.

I didn't see what years those drive shafts were out of those 4Runners, but the 1st gens have a CV in the front shaft which, when lengthened, will be extremely beneficial for your pinion angle in the back. You can also swap the stock rear drive shaft up front, depending on what type of flanges you are using.

 

haha

dude. i hear that. you're further in your SAS than i will be in a while

 

All the driveshafts are going to be modified/retubed, with CVs front and back. I should have plenty of spares too.

I'm going with 2.5" King shocks with remote reservoirs and 14" travel on all 4 corners. I actually just broke down not ten minutes ago and ordered the front 2 shocks with springs (200/250) from Filthy Motorsports. Fantastic shop, they gave me a call to get more details so they could setup the valving properly and have a 'spring exchange' if the ones that are sent are not ideal.

 

My 6 year old just told me "Your trucks going to get done when you're old and died!"

 

Kids. My 17 year old daughter informed me today that she can't wait to take possession of my truck. Not sure where she got that idea from.

 

Hey at least he is realistic. That's a good quality.

 

Hell yeah that's gonna be a solid drivetrain. Are you going to put duals in while everything is apart?

Custom links or weld together kit?

 

It comes naturally.

Touche...

Inchworm is already installed. Links are definitely custom.




Finished welding up all the brackets/tabs/diff cover! (Minus the bump pads [which I'm pretty sure the flat area thingy for the leaf spring will make a perfect bump pad] and limit straps). Sweet! Only another $3,000 and the front axle will be complete!



At least my welds are improving.

 

Damn, son!

I should have waited a year before I let you rub your heat-stick all over Ol' Red

 

update?

 

Nothing worth posting. Been working a lot and no money. Hopefully the front shocks ($1,250 for two King 14" coilovers w/ remote reservoirs) will be here soon. They take a few weeks since they're getting the custom valving done. In the mean time, I have a week off from work starting yesterday and I'm starting to get the engine cage roughed in so it'll be ready to mock up the shocks.

 

Saw this on Facebook
Pretty much how it goes

 

What kind of gun technique (angle, stickout, motion, etc) are you using and what machine? I just picked up a hobart 175 and I'm trying to teach myself but it's hard not having an example to follow.

 

For most of the time I've been welding, I've used the cursive 'e' technique. The above pic was more of a back & forth like TIG with a pushing angle with minimal stickout (I'm pretty sure you're always supposed to have minimal stickout anyway?). I think a pushing angle is better for the back & forth technique because you have more control of the filler once the initial pass has cut in to the material. But it really just depends on the conditions though, I guess.

I'm running a Hobart 210MVP on 115v I don't even bother with .030 wire, .023 and .035 do a more than adequate job covering the bases. I preheat with a propane torch when necessary. I was being a cheap-ass and was only use flux core for quite awhile. My welding didn't improve until I really practiced with the MIG. Now I'd only use flux core in an emergency.

A good video on the basics

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzBGZaS1apw

And probably all the info you'll ever need for hobby welding

https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks

 

Any feedback/constructive criticism on what I got so far?

Shocks will be angled back approximately 10 degrees mounted in between the toobing.

 

How's the turbo too a fit haha

 

There's a metric shit-ton of room, it clears the OEM intake manifold too.

 

Alight then haha