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Amp Noise with touchscreen head unit

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by one35i, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. Apr 28, 2013 at 8:37 PM
    #1
    one35i

    one35i [OP] Member

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    Hello,
    This is my first post. I just bought a 2013 TRD Sport with the touchscreen head unit. The sound sucked, so I visited my local stereo shop for upgraded speakers and amplifier. When I went to pick it up, an amazing amount of hum was audible through the speakers when the key is on and the stereo off. Rockford Fosgate amp and Hertz HSK 165 speakers. Had them swap the amp to a low noise variety, but 12 hours of labor later they told me the HU never really shuts totally off, and in order to get rid of the amp noise, I either have to swap out the HU or install a toggle switch for the amp. Has anyone else experienced this? Any leads or ideas on which direction I should go? I really would like to keep the stock head unit, as it is easy to operate and is nicely integrated with Bluetooth, phone, etc., but the hum is driving me crazy!

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Apr 29, 2013 at 6:35 AM
    #2
    fletch97

    fletch97 Professional Window Licker

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    Again, I go back to saying most humming noise occurs when the amp itself is not grounded properly. Although I am not 100% sure about the stock HU itself....they suck in my opinion!

    I would check on the amp ground first, make sure it's grounded to real metal and that there is no paint on the ground point! If that's good, then I would look into a new HU.

    Good Luck, let us know how it works out.



     
  3. Apr 29, 2013 at 10:27 AM
    #3
    one35i

    one35i [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion. I will do, the installer says that the stock HU never turns all the way off, it is in standby for the phone, but I still don't understand why it should hum like it is unless the ground is bad or something. Anyone out there have a similar problem when upgrading speakers and amp only? Any HU upgrade suggestions? Simple to use and integrates with the phone. Most stereos today are too damn complicated for me, that's why I like the factory one. Is the factory JBL a POS as well?
     
  4. Apr 29, 2014 at 4:56 PM
    #4
    ISpaulding

    ISpaulding Member

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    Yep, I have the same truck, 2013 TRD Sport, and the same problem. I was actually troubleshooting the system today and figured out that it was noise originating from the H/U. Not from a bad ground at least in my situation. I was actually hoping to find a solution to this problem without having to change the H/U. I like the touch screen and how it integrates seamlessly with my cellphone. I was trying to keep the factory look. Perhaps there is something to filter out the noise that seems to be most prevalent through the tweeters. I am using the Audio Control LC7i to go from Hi to Lo.

    Anyone with a solution without replacing the factory H/U or getting one of those expensive multi-function digital processors would be much appreciated!
     
  5. Apr 29, 2014 at 4:59 PM
    #5
    Burgman

    Burgman I KEEEEEL YOU

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    Guys i would look into grounding the HU better. When adding more power draw you may be overloading the factory ground.
     
  6. Apr 29, 2014 at 5:09 PM
    #6
    Yotabilly

    Yotabilly Well-Known Member

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    I haven't found one yet and don't think anyone else has. I have a nice system from my last truck I haven't installed yet because I like the flow of the factory HU. It would be awesome to have a stealth system, Looks stock until you crank it up.:D
     
  7. Apr 29, 2014 at 5:12 PM
    #7
    Yotabilly

    Yotabilly Well-Known Member

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    I haven't heard that one yet. Makes since though.
     
  8. Apr 29, 2014 at 5:13 PM
    #8
    ISpaulding

    ISpaulding Member

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    It's not adding more power draw from the H/U by adding an amp(s) downstream. Thanks.
     
  9. Apr 29, 2014 at 5:30 PM
    #9
    Burgman

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    The HU is sending a new signal to your amps which requires power.
     
  10. Apr 29, 2014 at 6:24 PM
    #10
    ISpaulding

    ISpaulding Member

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    No different than sending power to the factory speakers when connected directly.
     
  11. Apr 29, 2014 at 9:03 PM
    #11
    devanb3

    devanb3 Well-Known Member

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    turn the radio off via the power button all radios have a backup that keeps some power to it if it still makes the sound try to go into the radios settings and turn off the subwoofer (if thats what amp your refering) if still make sure they have it wired to the proper remote wire and not to your constant power wire.... if theres not a remote to tap into it should be tapped into the accessory power wire... does it make noise for ever when it shuts off or just a few minutes (some amps are made to run until the cool themselves off)

    also what amp is it it may be turning on via a signal input so the amp turns on when it has some signal run to it not through a remote wire these work ok but sometimes take a min to shut off because it is made to keep running even when songs are paused... if you could take pics of the amp wires and settings i would be able to answer many of these q and the wiring for the back of the radio
     
  12. Apr 30, 2014 at 5:47 PM
    #12
    AaronK13

    AaronK13 Well-Known Member

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    Try grounding the RCAs. I had this problem in a previous vehicle. I stripped a piece of speaker wire and did a figure 8 around the metal connectors. Then wrapped in electrical tape. Then grounded the other end to a solid point. Not the same as your stereo though. I will be using an LC7 and 2 amps here in about 1-2 months. Hopefully this fix works. There are some other threads on here referring to my same fix that other people have done.
     
  13. Apr 30, 2014 at 6:10 PM
    #13
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 “Hold my beer and watch this!”

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    Id have to agree with devanb3 on this one. The amp is probably connected to a switched source, and is always on when the vehicle is on. You need to find a HU switched source, that shuts off the amp when the HU is off.

    On a side note, hows the sound of the HSK speakers. I have the opportunity to buy some for a decent price, but I've never heard them. Specifically the tweets. Are they sharp or piercing at high volumes, or are they smooth and easy to listen to?
     
  14. May 1, 2014 at 10:44 AM
    #14
    one35i

    one35i [OP] Member

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    HSK's sound great. Tweeters are crisp, without being sharp or tinny. A good choice.
     
  15. May 1, 2014 at 11:04 AM
    #15
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 “Hold my beer and watch this!”

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    Thanks.

    Have you tried the suggestion of finding a switched source on the deck, to turn the amp off when not in use?
     
  16. May 1, 2014 at 3:40 PM
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    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    Humming or hissing is almost always due to one (or more) of the following:

    Bad ground (HU/AMP doesn't matter. Grounds are important)
    Non-Shielded RCA/Speaker wire running next to or on top of the power wires for the amps.
    Installed with crimps and not crimped correctly (I've actually seen this happen 2 times)
    And.... Again, Bad grounding. (#1 cause)
     
  17. May 4, 2014 at 10:53 AM
    #17
    one35i

    one35i [OP] Member

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    The stereo shop had my truck for three days, even sent it to the main shop across town to have their guru check it out. They could not eliminate the hum. So we ended up using a low noise amp and installed an OEM Toyota sub-woofer switch out of an FJ Cruiser in one of the blanks on the dashboard as a way of turning off the amp when the stereo is not in use. Looks and works nice. Heres the Part Number for the switch:

    86171-35010

    [​IMG]
     
  18. May 4, 2014 at 4:02 PM
    #18
    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    That really doesn't say much for that stereo shops abilities. Glad you got something worked out.
     
  19. May 4, 2014 at 4:36 PM
    #19
    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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  20. May 4, 2014 at 4:49 PM
    #20
    ProForce

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    Upgrade the ground on your stereo, reroute the ground on your amp, reroute your power wires and RCAs to be sure they are not ran along side each other. RCAs and Power should only cross at a 90 degree angle. Make sure amp ground wire is no more tahn 12-16" long at most. Then replace your basic hi/low converter with one of the options above (Id get the LC6i as a good balance between budget and performance) and your problem should be solved.
     

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