intake resonator delete?

ive been thinking about deleting the intake resonator, but wondering if it caused any problems or it a good-to-go, then maybe reseting the computer to see what happens. any imput?

 

Is that the piece on top , or the one in the fender?

 

its the piece on the top, and thought it was one piece with the intake tube, i've looked at it before but i oculd be wrong.. i'll have to check it again tomorrow.

 

Ahh ok.I pulled the piece in the fender, I couldnt tell any difference.

 

yeah a guy on here did that. he wasnt too satisfied with it. best bet would be to keep it and go for a CAI when you can aford it. or get a pro dry s drop in filter from AFE and take out the secondary filter. i saw some gains with it like that.

 

yeah i did the secondary removal and put the pro dry in a did a great job. just wondering what else i can crank outta thing mighty engine

 

headers, ram air intake from Volant, or a S/C or a Turbo

 

maf airflow calibrator as well. that will help carnk out some hidden power from your mods that you already have.

 

I removed my intake resonator. It was a PITA to get it out. I didn't have my scanguage then, so I don't know if it made any difference in mpg. Seemed to improve throttle response, but pretty hard to tell for sure. The one thing I can say for sure is that my truck does better in 5th gear now. With the 30x9.5's and stock gearing, 5th gear can be kind of sluggish. I go up a hill on the interstate on my way to work everyday. The truck can hold speed with cruise control on much easier now with the resonator removed. Lastly, it does make the intake a little bit louder.

It might not be for everyone, but I think I'm leaving mine off. It seemed to make a larger difference than removing the secondary air filter.

 

I did all these MODS before I started keeping track of my MPG. I purchased my SG II & started keeping track of my MPG. After removing the 2ndary filter, air resonator, and adding an aFe pro dry air filter I notice an increase throttle response. I am happy with the MODS I have done.

 

I would leave it on until you get a CAI (if you plan on getting a CAI). Those resonators are designed to flatten a dip in the power curve at a certain rpm. Removing it will likely give you little gain in power and then you'll have to contend with the dip.

 

As mentioned - the intake runner length has a bearing on engine performance. If i remember correctly, the longer, the better the low end torque. Higher RPM (drag race, eg) the more HP in the higher RPM ranges with a shorter intake.
Our vehicles typically run at lower RPMs ... eg approx 2ooo rpm, highway
If better mileage is desired, leave the intake intact. (high flow filter, remove secondary filter things to experiment with)
If you have a manual, you likely run to higher RPMs rowing through the gears, but this is very short term as opposed to steady driving. Again, in gas saving mode, you wouldn't be red-lining it at shift points anyway.

 

someplace did a dyno for the stock intake then they made a diy that they cut a 3" hole in the front of the stock box then again in the sheetmetal towards the front. they went to home depot bought aluminum tubing and some sort of "scoop" thingy and they got about 7 or 8 hp out of it all for like 10 bucks ill try to find the link

 

i cant find it but the company was empire whatever. they did the 02 sims for aftermarket exhausts


found it. empirepao.com and its under diy's the $10 cai

 

that is very similar to the deckplate mod. although i doubt it involves running a tube through the front sheet metal

 

They're claiming preliminary gains of 11.4hp/7tq... here's the link:

http://www.empirepao.com/cai.php

They do appear to have gone to far more trouble than necessary cutting the sheet-metal and routing the tube.

Might be worth thinking this one through...

 

call me crazy, but im not about to hack up a 26k dollar truck to install some dryer parts from home depot.

 

not quite dryer aparts but just as cheap and i have k&n filter

 

Those numbers are probably bunk. I refuse to believe that a bunch of cobbled together metal tubing makes more power than a plastic K&N unit that had hundreds of hours of engineering and testing done to ink out every last bit of power. But, you believe what you want.

 

Hmmm... seems like I've read more than a few times here that when tested, the K&N CAI
showed negligeble improvement over the stock set-up and a good aftermarket drop-in.

I'm not about to run out and start cutting up my truck like these guys have done, but I
have to admit that I am a bit intrigued by their process. Seems to me though like there
ought to be a better way to achieve similar results.