New England B.S. Thread

Wasn't driving or handling any equipment that night.

 

Anybody ever installed one of these on a 2nd gen?

$52 Draw-Tite 118496 T-One Connector for Toyota T100/Tacoma

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004R32TG4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I bought my truck it had no hitch, so I had the dealership install a class IV and a tranny cooler as part of the deal (because let's face it, bumper towing with a modern pickup just ain't a great plan).
We had a couple of big pines around the house that we had dropped, and had them sawn into lumber by a local guy. He called me this weekend and told me it was done and I could pick it up, so I went to borrow the inlaw's trailer yesterday to go get the lumber. Backed up to the trailer, dropped the tongue onto the ball, hooked up the safety chains, and....no wiring. Crawled under the truck and looked to see if maybe I'd missed it because they'd tucked it into the frame rail or something...Nope.
Apparently the toolbags at IRA BMW in Stratham NH took me literally when I said I wanted "A class IV hitch and a transmission cooler" installed as part of the purchase price. Who installs a hitch without the wiring?! Cheap-ass dealerships, apparently.

 

I had 2 of them on my Tacoma and they worked great. Keep dielectric grease in the holes when not in use though. I ended up having to replace mine after about 4 years because the running light plug was very corroded. Otherwise, install takes all of about 5 minutes. No complaints at all if all you need is a flat 4 connector.

 

Yeah, that's all I'd need. I can't see myself towing anything that needs a round plug with a Tacoma...
Good to know they're a simple install, though. I was wondering, because aftermarket plug-and-play isn't always as easy as it should be.

 

They are definitely a true plug and play. I would get some wire loom and some extra zip ties though. I didn't like the idea of having wires getting blasted with road spray all the time. I felt the wire loom would give them a little added protection.

 

I have both of those in my electrical toolbox in the workshop. I'm the same way about salt spray and electronics. I always go overboard with taping connectors/splices and looming & zip-tying the wires to keep the elements out. The Auxiliary reverse lights I installed on the Dodge this winter got the splices taped, the wires loomed, and then I wrapped the loom in electrical tape for good measure, haha!

 

That's exactly what I did for my trailer wiring and the wires on my light bar, wire loom then wrap that in electrical tape. I think that's the best way to keep water and grime off the wires. For splices, I use heat shrink though.

 

lol...who says I didn't?

 

Oh, I saw you said you used tape and assumed... I don't use electrical tape for much other than house electrical work and taping up wire loom. I view electrical tape as a last resort.

 

Gotcha. I use the heat-shrink butt connectors (the ones you stick the wire in, crimp the connector, then heat the connection and the shrinky stuff shrinks).
Then I tape each connection, add loom, tape that, and zip-tie where necessary.

 

That's my ideal woman

To each his own though, obviously I'm going with the black/white theme so I think it flows great . Can't stand chrome.

 

What is the reason for the blue polyester

 

^^ it's a swimming pool jump in the water is nice !

 

This is the opening of my garage door . Over the winter with all the melt/freeze I was getting a river of water into the garage .
Can I just add cement to the existing cement to build it back up?

 

That would be Chris

 

They make rubber seals for the bottom of the door. Also is the drain clear and working

 

How long ago did they do the pour? Maybe the concrete's still curing?
Or maybe they're going to do another pour onto it and they're worried about contamination so they're keeping it covered until they're ready to pour...
Or it could be a footing barrier, to keep moisture out of the cellar once the foundation's been poured?

 

I don't have issues with water now. It's only when the 10 feet of snow starts melting . The door does have a rubber seal but the cement lip isn't there anymore. So the water gets under the door. The drain was a block of ice when the snow was melting so at that time it wasn't draining anything. I have 300' of the roof melting cable so I might run the line through the drain to keep it from turning into ice.

 

From the way it's wearing off of there it looks like that's what they did in the first place. I don't see why you couldn't just do it again...

Edit: It should be noted that I am NOT a concrete expert.