Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

Does that seem reasonable to you ?

 

What is the difference between 885's and 885X's?

 

Except the Dakars are made in Malaysia, not Australia. So the Koala bears make A LOT more......

 

885 are the old ones which were replaced by the 885x. Everyone who orders gets 885x nowadays.

 

I see. Thank you.

 

Will the old man emu springs work with the stock trd stocks?

 

No

 

Thank you!

 

I was thinking about istalling the lift myself, but I called a local guy who does lifts just to see how much he would charge. He said $350 WITH an alignment. I thought that was pretty good. This includes installing the ATO shackle flip kit. Is it worth the $350 not to mess with it? Although, I do enjoy wrenching, but I have very little time to do it myself.


AiNo: your truck looks awesome.

 

Sounds to me like a good deal for the shop time/money (approx. 8 hr instal for us mere mortals). When I get mine I'll do it myself though. Sense of satisfaction and all blah blah. But I enjoy both wrenching and the money that I save...which will promptly spend. But then again, I haven't put one on yet, so what do I know. It comes down to how much your time is worth to you and/or how soon you want this lift on.
Nice looking Storm Trooper, I'm digging the billet with the lights.

 

350 sounds like a pretty good deal to me especially including alignment. I spent about 4 hours by myself and 4 more hours with 2 buddies helping to do my lift + UCA's.

 

Ok Oz, please chime in:

Tell me about bump stops and Dakar's. Will the factory stops work?

How about Light racing UCA's?

I am also going with an ATO shackle flip kit. What are your thoughts about CB drops and axle shims. What do you think I will need?

I am buying LR UCA's from a member here (new un-used), and may be able to get a pair of axle shims from another. The shims are 3*.

My thoughts on the shims are mainly centered around the fact that I'm doing the shackle flip. ATO says the flip will add another 3/4". That may leave me with a slight front rake, but I'm ok with that.

I just want to be able to get it all as close to right as possible the first time, as I don't have a lot of it to play with the truck (work/family). I have read tons, but some things remain unanswered as I haven't really seen my setup on here.

Don't flame me, I'm learning.

 

Sorry, double post.

Oh yeah. Other advise welcome, but I know Oz can't resist! Ehh.

 

So, got an "alignment" done at Les Schwab. It is in quotes because the only thing they changed was the Toe! Never even touched the Caster or Camber. Tech just saw "green" figures and called it good. I'm going back tomorrow to have them redo it, although I am actually tempted to go to a completely different shop. I have no idea where Les Schwab got their "modified Specification" numbers from.....



So yeah, the numbers are in the green according to their spec sheet, but still at the extreme ends (near max positive camber, near minimum caster).

If anyone understands the relationship between the numbers, if I get the camber closer to zero, what kind of increase in caster am I looking at?

 

Camber and Caster works against each other. Can't increase caster without being affecting camber which most likely going to make your tires look like this \----/ without aftermarket UCAs.

 

Yeah, looks like I need some UCAs. Already ordered the Light Racing ones from Headstrong. Here are today's revised numbers......

 

much better for having stock ucas. when it says 'modified spec' that means the tech went in to the computer and manually changed what spec is. that causes it to look alot better when comparing actual measurements to"specs". its a hack way to make ur alignment look correct

 

In 3 weeks my special order (because Toyota doesn't make enough 6 speeds) 2014 DCSB 6 speed TRD Off-Road will be arriving. Invoice plus $500. Can't complain.

I know I'll love the truck because I've been driving a 2009 DCSB 6 speed TRD Off-Road since 2008. I'd still be driving that stoppable beauty today if my dad hadn't absconded to east Africa with it while I was on vacation. (He really wanted to take it, and who can blame him. Can't be too mad since it gave me an excuse to get a new one.)

So, I need your help. I'd really like to do a small lift, kind of mimic the upcoming TRD Pro or current Baja. I love Kyle's write up on doing just that. My plan is to get some Moto Metal 17x9s wrapped in DynaPro ATM 265/70R17 (~31.7" compared to stock ~30.6"). I don't want to sacrifice too much torque by going any bigger than that, and no I don't want forced induction.

However, I know the OME shocks and struts are a huge quality step up from Bilstein 5100s. I'd really like to leave the sway bar in place and not drop the diff or replace the UCAs. That's kind of the whole point of going with a smaller lift. The new truck is coming with the 4 leaf pack, so what do you guys recommend for what I'm trying to achieve? How much would the rear change if I put OME Nitrochargers with the stock 4 leaf pack? What should I do up front to get around 1.5" to 1.75" of lift? What spring should I mate the OME Nitrochargers with?

Money really isn't a concern. I just want to maintain the excellent on and off road ride qualities of a stock Taco while giving it a little more aggressive look and slightly better clearance for those Colorado mountain trails.

Help me learn, wise OME gurus.

 

None. Zip. Zero. Zilch. Nada. Just swapping shocks won't do a thing to increase lift in the rear. For a really mild lift, you could go with an AAL, or a very small block lift (1"?)

884's would probably give you a very mild lift up front and allow you to retain stock UCAs. With the exception of "free length", which is 5mm shorter on the 884's vs. 885's, the rest of the specs are identical.

 

Got my new crap ordered yesterday.
886/dakars.
Coils are already spoken for.
Anyone want to buy my current leafs? tsb pack + aal.