Is my Fuel Pump gone?

Dang haha, I thought so. They look like they have never been off, all 328k miles. I think a line wrench will have to do. I have replaced a fuel pump in my mustang so this should not be too much harder I don't think. Thanks again for all of the help guys!

 

Hopefully going to tackle it today guys. I hope all goes well dropping the tank, we will see! Any suggestions on removing the non quick release fuel lines from the tank? I am going to put some PB on them.

 

Other than using well fitting, quality line wrenches and a penetrant the key is to know when to stop and change tactics before rounding off the fittings.
If things don't want to budge, try clamping a good sized set of vice grips on the female portion of the fitting. Set the VGs as tight as you can, on the hex points not the flats. The idea here is to induce a little "flex" into the fitting to help break the corrosion bond, not for better grip. Sometimes tapping on the VG jaws while they are clamped will help. Use the VGs for the "flexing" routine then remove them and use line wrenches for the removal.

Failing at the above, then try this.
Below is a method used on a fuel filter (to be discarded). Just drill a row of holes along one of the flats of the fitting. Try and drill just a tad into the flat then try the vice grip trick. If necessary drill deeper and try again. This weakens the female part so the VGs will have a better chance at flexing the fitting and breaking the bond. In the case below I had to drill just to the threads. The threads on the male fitting were nicked a tiny bit but still fully functional.


On assembly I have used anti-seize and still had stuck fittings 5 years later. Now I wrap the fitting with that stretchy rubber tape that fuses to itself. This seals the anti-seize in and keeps water/salt out. It's equally important to apply anti-seize to the threads and the tube. It really sucks when the fitting becomes one with the tube.

Best of luck to ya.

 

Okay guys so I got the tank pins out, tank is supported. I didnt get to start on it until this evening.

Problem now is the bolts to undo the filler tube are rusted very bad. It also looks like the pump hat is rusted really bad, ugh. I don't think this thing has ever had a fuel pump in 330k miles. Any suggestions to get the screws loose at the top where the cap is? I almost stripped the first one out. Thanks guys.

What it boils down to is the screws that hold the filler tube to the tank are rusted really bad on the tank. I know I must have to take the filler tube off here, how can I do it? I don't see how you get to the screws anyway?

 

I got the bolt off holding the filler tube to the frame. Pb balsted the fuel line connectors so I am going to tackle it again tomorrow. Oh the joy of working on a truck with this many miles!

 

You might try nudging those fitting a bit tighter,,before backing them off and out. Helps with breaking the white meth/alky corrosion on the fuel side and it pushes the dirty side threads free of dirt as you tighten,,just a bit. Then back them apart. As posted above, use good judgement.

Be careful with your old sender if you get that far. It has some mileage on it as well.

 

Thanks man. It also appears the screws holding the fuel hat on are pretty rusted. What is the best way to go about making sure I don't break off any of those screws? The truck isn't even rusty at all on the frame its so weird these old screws are so bad.

 

Same principal. Tighten just a tiny bit,,then back them off ,,if possible.

Make sure you have the correct driver or socket for removing those. Not just a new bit or socket,,but one that fits very close. Not all sockets and driver bits are created equal. Use the best/tightest fitting one you have.

If they are really crudded up ,,you might have to work them back and fourth a bit before completely removing/unscrewing them.

 

Got the main fuel line undone on lunch so hopefully the bracket will not be that bad tonight. May take some vice grips to it if they are looking as bad as they do from my limited view at the moment. Thanks again for the help!

 

Well I got the tank out, yeah there are no heads left to the screws holding it on. I guess vice grips here I come!

 

Can't you disconnect the line from the filter and the tank. Then try to start the truck. If gas shoots out, it's good. No gas, bad pump?

 

I have decided to replace it anyway as maintenance, if it ends up not being the pump then I will check the next thing.

Can I reuse the plug to the pump, meaning just unplug this one and plug the new one in? The pump bracket actually came out rather easily with the vice grips.

 

Yes, yes you can.
Man, you must lead a charmed life. I would have predicted a huge klustergeflugen at seeing that rust.
Be careful plugging in the pump connector, some folks have managed to bend the blades. A source of continuous embarrassment.

 

Okay cool. The vent tube for the tank is broken, can I get a new one of those anywhere or do I need to order it?

 

This is what I need guys, I cannot find it online anywhere?

 

Listed as #14 I believe.

http://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota...up=fuel-storage&part_name=fuel-tank-vent-hose


If you have a dremel tool and a cutoff wheel, you could cut a straight across slot across the head of the screw,,to be able to use a standard screwdriver to remove if they are stubborn. The cut off wheel is going to cast a spray of sparks as it cuts. It's also going to heat the screw, which will help in breaking it free. Fill the tank to about 1/2-3/4 with tap water before starting,,you don't need a fire at this point or any. If you have a sharp fine tooth hack-saw blade, you can achieve the same results slotting the screws albeit at a slower pace.

 

I plan on taking them out with vice grips, just like I did on the fuel pump bracket. Can I get this from the dealer? That may be my best bet to get it fast right?


In this link it looks like they are calling the same thing a roll over valve on a 4x4 truck, what do you think?


http://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota...l-storage&part_name=fuel-tank-roll-over-valve

 

Junkyard or dealer. A local parts store might be able to get it, but I wouldn't bet on it.

 

Yeah probably should make a trip to the dealer after work, thanks guys.

 

Well I got it back together for the most part, IT RUNS! I am glad it was the fuel pump. The only thing left to do is put the stupid tank straps back on. Has anyone else done this and had as hard of a time as I have? Any tips on getting them back on? The tank is hitting the frame, cannot go any higher, and the stupid straps will still not go back in place.

I have one of them 3/4 done because one pin is in and the other is through the strap but not through the other end. I literally need 1/8th of and inch but the things will not stretch because they are steel. Any advice on this would be great!