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2005 Bulletproof Taco: 1 Ton SAC

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by NwiTACO, Jun 6, 2012.

  1. May 7, 2014 at 5:42 PM
    #1421
    smkd13

    smkd13 Professional Idiot

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    Well I am gonna pray for you that your welds hold. You welding mild steel to cast iron. You have to preheat and post heat or there is a strong possibility you didn't get proper fusion with the cast iron. Your suppose to preheat to 500 and then keep it at 500 while welding then bring it down slowly. You can also peen your weld metal to release some of the stress from the two metals contracting at different rates.

    Just some friends welder tips
     
  2. May 7, 2014 at 7:04 PM
    #1422
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    ^ that sounds incredibly difficult
     
  3. May 7, 2014 at 7:17 PM
    #1423
    smkd13

    smkd13 Professional Idiot

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    Well your basically welding one type of metal to another type of metal and that is not really ideal iirc you also need to use a high zinc content filler rod
     
  4. May 7, 2014 at 9:45 PM
    #1424
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    500 is too hot. 300 or so is sufficient. Enough to boil off whatever oils are saturated in the cast. I agree on pre and post heat though. I bought special high nickel content MIG wire for pulling it off successfully.
     
  5. May 8, 2014 at 5:43 AM
    #1425
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Yup.

    Thanks for your prayers :D

    And sorry to say...your friend is wrong. Center section is not cast iron, its cast steel. Pre and Post heat help but for the amount of heat I am putting into the housing for this small repair...not worth the effort. Peening can be done if you wish and does help with repairs on thicker "sections".

    Wrong again. And its high Ni rod not zinc, and $70 for 2lb spool when ER70 will work just fine...no thanks.

    Correct that 500 is a waste. Pre and post are a good idea, but I wasn't burning into things like I was with the housing shave. Burning into the ends of the cast center section worry me not. Thousands have done it this way just fine, add me to the list.

    The high-Ni rod is just insanely expensive! Once again for this...I see no need. Heck my double shear steering is MIG'd on with ER70 and those haven't cracked yet, and see a ton of force.
     
  6. May 8, 2014 at 6:15 AM
    #1426
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    On another note I finally got to take the truck for a drive with the 40's on it :D

    Nice and smooth all the way to 75 mph...rode nice! I have one slow leaker, so I must not have used enough bead sealer when I mounted it. Crap...39 bolts to remove and do it over! The DIY beadlock setup came for my spare yesterday too
     
  7. May 8, 2014 at 6:37 AM
    #1427
    Spoonman

    Spoonman Granite Guru

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    Need better pics on 40s! Ive been wanting to see this
     
  8. May 8, 2014 at 6:51 AM
    #1428
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Tonight...I promise!

    It just looks right, no other way to describe it. However, after saying I would never go bigger than 40's...these just don't seem that much bigger than 37's now that they are on the truck and the 37's long gone :eek:
     
  9. May 8, 2014 at 6:52 AM
    #1429
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    I don't like playing devils advocate but the center sections on Dana axles are nodular or ductile iron, not cast steel. The grain structure of grey cast iron is what you want to stay away from or when it's more critical to pre/post heat and use proper wire/sticks. Feast your eyes...left is nodular or ductile iron and right is grey cast iron.

    321557d1187750976-centersections-cast-ir_688b3b5066d74087489bb202b54b90a88014c98d.jpg
     
  10. May 8, 2014 at 6:55 AM
    #1430
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    You are correct. I didn't want to get that far into things here,lol. Nodular welds more like steel than grey iron does.

    Typically cast iron refers to grey cast, which really shouldn't be welded for a repair unless its the only option, and then proper technique, pre/post heat, and proper filler material are of utmost importance.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  11. May 8, 2014 at 7:09 AM
    #1431
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Someone has to teach the newbies LOL
     
  12. May 8, 2014 at 7:17 AM
    #1432
    smkd13

    smkd13 Professional Idiot

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    I stand corrected. Lol at least I wasn't to far off if it was for cast iron. Cast steel definitely would not require that. Thank you for clarifying
     
  13. May 9, 2014 at 6:33 AM
    #1433
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Just for you, peaches.

    20140508_195400_zps3d1ca702_60d23dc6ae49ff60ac5be1a329209450696719cf.jpg

    20140508_195347_zpsc7180810_426d50acfa16c1b0c48c506c4d6e8dff060e5307.jpg

    And frame height:

    20140508_195506_zpsb3eacbd0_44edd4e7d6bea3aee09539990f0adfb790297d15.jpg
     
  14. May 9, 2014 at 7:39 AM
    #1434
    HomerTaco

    HomerTaco also HomerTaco Vendor

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    HomerTaco ...................................................................................................................................................... Core-Hurst short throw shifter & T-handle / Carbon Fiber Interior / custom console light / De-badged / leather interior / Heated Front seats / Red Line Hood Struts / Painted speaker grills /one-off TRD Satoshi Grill with 12-15 front-end swap/ Pioneer AVIC-X920BT HU / Scangauge II / Black LED Tails / Dash Mount for iPad mini / Safari Snorkel / Auto-pilot mode / Leer 100XQ Cap / 4x Innovations sliders / Rear Diff Breather Mod / front windows tinted to 35% / Brute Force Fab Hybrid Front Bumper / BAMF Rear Diff Skid / Budbuilt Skids / CBI Trail Master 2.0 rear hybrid bumper / Fox rr coils/ TC UCA's/ TC spindle gussets/ TC Cam Tab gussets / Dakar leafs / Defined Engineering shackles / All pro U bolt flip / Timbren Rear Bumpstops / BAMF LCA skids / Exhaust re-route / Fog Light anytime Mod / LowRange Off Road extended rear brake lines / ATO Shackle Flip / sectioned Bushwhacker flares / re-geared to 4.56 / ARB Front & Rear Locking Diff / ARB CKMA12 compressor / PrInSu full rack system / 1" body lift / Inchworm 4.7 crawlbox / twin stick FJ t-case / Davez off-road triple-stick kit/
  15. May 9, 2014 at 7:43 AM
    #1435
    Spoonman

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    Oh FUCK.

    SHIT.

    That looks amazing.

    Mark you win the internet today
     
  16. May 9, 2014 at 8:05 AM
    #1436
    geekhouse23

    geekhouse23 The "Liftman" - @DrFunker

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  17. May 13, 2014 at 6:23 AM
    #1437
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Thanks!

    Look what showed up yesterday :D

    20140513_063759_zps08d9fd6d_8e59638aa3fca3dfe238ab8b66d052dbe482a499.jpg
     
  18. May 13, 2014 at 10:29 AM
    #1438
    thegame

    thegame Well-Known Member

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    Hey Mark,
    What lines go where from the steering box to the hydro ram? I'm probably going to mount my ram like you did, off the panhard mount. I have a top port and front port on my steering box ready to go for hydro lines but don't know which one connects to which side on the ram.
     
  19. May 15, 2014 at 1:28 PM
    #1439
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    It depends which way your ram is mounted. What I can say is the forward fitting on the box gets pressure when you turn passenger, and the top fitting gets pressure when you turn driver. :cool:
     
  20. May 15, 2014 at 1:39 PM
    #1440
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO [OP] Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Custom Everything, 1 Ton Axles F & R
    Just wanted to publicly send a shout out to Ben. I found this spare for my set from someone in CO on another forum. Ben picked up this spare for me and shipped it to me since they wouldn't ship. Thanks a ton for helping me out! +1 to you kind sir :D
     

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