Anything welding

I have a band saw and drycut steel blade saw. Both have +-

 

Yeah I might pic one up as well for those crazy notches on bends.

 

stupid question, but i have a wood chop saw, can i just switch out the blade for a metal saw and it should work ok?

 

They'll work for a little while; although the saw will be trashed, and useless for anything other than cutting steel.

Not worth trashing a wood saw in my opinion. Take a look at the Evolution Rage dry cut saws. Them, or a horizontal band saw. Band saw is my next purchase, went the route of (probably) a lot of other people, and picked up a Makita abrasive chop saw... I hate them. Dusty, noisy and horribly inaccurate.

Grizzly Tool is about 10 minutes from me, and they're having a huge tent sale on Saturday..

 

Apparently they're going to have a few of these guys:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-x-12-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0561

At a 60% showroom discount. Sales guy basically told me to get there at 0630 on Saturday morning, they usually have a few guys that wait in line overnight..

 

You can do this. Abrasive style blades make a ton of sparks and will leave particulate all over the saw-never mind all of the metal/abrasive crap that will be everywhere. A blade specifically for steel will help a lot. That and be sure to clean the surface of the table immediately.

If you're going to use a chop saw, use a metal cutting blade and not the abrasive kind.

 

We use miter saws all the time for non ferris metals, just swap it the blade for one made to cut metal, for steel we use a band saw. For home use I would go with a porta band, much more versatile. If you already have a miter saw it will work, it's not great for the saw but it won't destroy it with occasional use, it is much more dangerous though. Abrasive wheels on chop saws suck balls.

 

Eddy, I didn't know you are in ship repair. I run the machine shop at Pearl Harbor.
I notched a pipe on the bridgeport today with a couple of big V blocks and a hole saw. Came out pretty nice

 

Yup, ran one for 2yrs 9mts then my head contractor started spending all the money. And couldn't afford to pay me. And I had just dished out $$$$ to remodel 3 levels on the bridge so I could'nt afford take over his contacts

 

Added casters and redesigned my welding table.. Leveling feet go on tomorrow.

 

Nice set up. I do all my work in a one car garage lol

 

Need a bender and a band saw now..

 

Nice idea is a porta-band and a Swag Off Road "table" for it. Unless of course, you need a full sized saw. Nice versatile setup.

 

are you going to extend the skid plate down to cover the ifs or are you using the stock skid?

 

That's one of the things I ran into in my bumper, I had to drill it the mounting holes which caused an oval. Under a pull the bumper could move forward, what I did was just put a tack and ground it out. Easy fix, that could have caused problems in the future.

 

A 3/8" rocovery point yields 27,000 lbs of snatch force. We test them at work. Them only make them that thick so there no wobble.

 

Agreed.

I'm a friend of the owner of Masterpull.. He thinks it's pretty funny that someone got the off-road market convinced that 3/4" shackles were what you NEEDED to use to recover light trucks and Jeeps.

A good 1/2" Van Beest or Crosby shackle would work perfectly fine with that recovery point.

However; it never hurts going bigger than necessary.. Just stupid to spend the money when you're within an acceptable safety margin with what you already have.

I'd sleeve it.

Exactly how is it welded into the structure of your bumper? Filets on the sides, or did you notch your bumper frame and weld on the backside as well?