Anything welding

i don't typically disconnect either. if you know what's going on with current paths, you're good to go. only time i disconnect is when i amd working in very close proximity to computer ground connections, or if my welding ground and welding area span across a potential link to the computer. just look at your path of least resistance between the two points and make sure it won't interfere with hookups. sliders, skids, bumpers, bed cages, exhaust, etc: good to go. welding in an engine cage with a ground right next to your battery ground: probably want to unhook.

 

This.

 

When the battery on a second gen is disconnected for a little period of time and then you reconnect it, go to start the truck and it typically fires up then dies, resets and then you can fire it up again. The look on some peoples faces when you just finished welding on their truck and then the engine dies is pretty priceless.

 

i've never had it happen on mine. maybe it's because we have 2nd gens before a certain year?

 

I have had a few random ones not do it, don't really know why

 

gotta be the newer 4.0s then with all of the electronic stuff.

 

ATrac

 

Mine does it every time I disconnect the battery

 

I've noticed the auto tranny ones tend to die when started after having the battery disconnected and the manual trans ones dont.

 

2014 land cruisers. Ready to be stripped and armored

 

I practiced on a separate piece of steel and got a nice, steady bead. However, once I tried welding the sliders, I get this. I'm keeping a steady arc, moving the wire forward and back into the puddle (stacked dimes?).

 

Clean more around the weld area. Looks really contaminated too

 

Lower case cursive e is better

 

I've got the area well cleaned down to bare metal, the contamination is probably due to me not cleaning it well after welding. I am trying to get it in one pass, moving uphill which may be the problem. If I first run downhill to fill the crack then run uphill using the "U" pattern, will that work better?

Here's an example of my "U" on scrap metal (the weld on the left). The metal is blued on the other side so I assume I'm getting good penetration.

 

those look really cold to me

 

Here was my second attempt working down instead of up. I also made several passes filling in the weld. I am using a CH 115v flux core welder with the heat set to "2" and the speed just above "3".

 

soooo is that like the 85 amp one? Because thats WAY too small to be welding 3/16

 

Third attempt. I have the heat turned up. Relentless, I just checked and my output is 70A

 

its cause your running flux without gas. The output isnt strong enough and causing cold roll. Lack of prep before welding.

 

Okay, so I need to clean the area at a far greater distance that I am right now. Currently, I'm taking it down to bare metal about 3/4" away from the seam but I can take it further back. I rechecked and its a 85A welder. Here's my latest attempt. Definitely an improvement from the first welds but still has a ways to go. Anything else I should be doing?