Thoughts on 37s

With the availability of military take offs being so good and the price so low I can't help but wonder if I should skip 35s for my next set of tires and move to 37s. Seems that the tires themselves can be had for about half the cost. I know it's been done by a few but can anyone give me any real input on what it takes to reliably run 37s?

For either 35's or 37s it looks like a lot of trimming and a regear is neccisary. Can 37's be fit without a long travel kit?

Anyone with any experience on the matters help would be appreciated. Hell, educated speculation wouldnt be bad either.

 

Depends on how much you cut, you'll have to tub the fuck out of shit though.

You could fit em easier with a body lift I guess...

Move your body mount back, cut, tub, beat, maybe a body lift, you'll stuff em.

 

If you get 37s you would probably want to regear your truck, which is like 2 grand

 

Here is a pic of 37's fully stuffed at full turn with no rubbing. I could fit 37's on an x-runner. Yes, it helps to have LT to widen the stance, but it's not required. There are dudes running them with 3" of lift, but as you see here I am at full stuff. If I were to bolt them on to a stock tacoma I would get wheels with a large offset (deep dish) and fiberglass fenders. Trail worthy fab beadlocks have a 3.5" backspacing and would be ideal for your situation. You do have to massage your firewall with a sledgehammer and do some work with a sawzall. If you don't mind the carnage, do it. You will need (off the top of my head)

1. 1/2" wheel spacers for the TWF wheels
2. Longer wheel studs. Go with ARP's
3. Sawzall/some way to cut metal
4. BFH and a burning desire to smash shit
5. 4.88 gears, might as well get an ARB too
6. Tires. I got the BFG baja's this time around. 100% better than the goodyears.
7. 'Glass fenders. Mine are glassworks brand.
8. Balls. Most dudes will tell you it will never work and your axles will break and it's better to go with 265's and have warm milk and cookies with your mom. Fuck them, where there is a will there is a way.



Groovy Baja's

 

+rep for you sir

 

If you paid 2 grand you got ripped off. I can get my gears redone for 400$ for the gears and another 250$ per axle which means 900$ max.

 

$400 for front and rear R&P and master install kit? Installed for $250? Sign me up... gimme a link

 

Thank you, that was the kind of information I was looking for. Do you think a 1" body lift would help much in the trimming, glass fender and beating the hell out of stuff dept? I was thinking of doing one as a preemptive measure incase a decide to go with a crawl box later. I'm getting ready to have a rear bumper and some other things fabbed. If I do the body lift after all that I'll end up having to mod and rebuild those parts, so I figure I should do it first.

 

Really should regear for 35s too. It would suck to go for 4.56s and 35's just to turn around and want 37's and 4.88s.

 

Hmm. Maybe. You would still have to cut the body mount, pinch weld, and beat on it, but maybe not as much. If you have uniball UCA's and good coilovers (like Icons, king, etc) the body lift will help get you a little more uptravel as the UCA bolt hits the inner fender at full stuff, but even that will self clearance if you jump it a couple times. I think fiberglass fenders will help more than anything. Go turn your wheel to full lock. Look at what it's going to rub on with 37's...see what I mean? A body lift won't help much, that cab corner needs a beatin' anyway. I'm a hillbilly, but if I wanted to do it "right" I would do something like this-
http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/viewarticle.php?id=63

 

X3 i was laughing my ass off!

 

Still waiting..

 

How did you do your cab mount?
did you cut and relocate your cab mount?
Or just cut to fit?

 

4.56 would be ok for 37s.

 

.

 

The sketchy part is reusing the bearing and gaskets lol

 

Just cut to fit. I removed the coilover, bolted on the tires and let the jack down. Anything that the tire rubbed on got chopped off or beat out of the way. Pretty simple really, no need to get all complicated with it.

4.88's put me exactly back to stock. My speedometer is even correct within 1 mph or so. I would not advise 4.56's.

 

Why do you need 37s? Just because they are cheaper?

 

Me or the OP? I don't need them, but they sure make getting around easier. It's also nice to have a nearly endless supply of surplus Military tires that perform fantastic for less than half the cost of even a chinese 35. I got that set of BFG's for $800 shipped. The 35" trail grapplers on my wife's duramax were almost $2000. Guess which one rides better? Plus...double beadlocks are kind of nice to have when aired down to nothing in the snow...

 

Yea I was referring to the OP, sorry.