Thoughts on 37s

37's do look pretty badass.. SgtCap let me know when you do this so i can see what it looks like in person.. 35's are massive as it is.

 

Maybe, I had 4.56 on 35s and 4.88 on 35s. Even though it seems to feel the same. And I think they are both over rated for 35s. I still don't think 37s on 4.56 would be that bad

 

Maybe not. I drove to work for a few days on 37's with 3.73's. I made it to work. It was a turd though...I would prefer to run 5.13's but I don't think anyone makes them for the front diff yet.

 

Really I don't. But I tend to over do stuff. The cost savings in tires is definite bonus but with all the other stuff I'll need it's probably a wash. Especially if I need fiberglass fenders, stronger axles ect.

I know me though, and if I got to 35s I'll want 37s next. And I hate redoing things. Being on the East coast I barely get a chance to wheel now. But I like the idea of making things as easy as possible on myself on the trail. Big tires seem to help in that area.

 

Where do you get military take offs from?

 

it's not a wash if they look better

 

if you are willing to put in the work to clear them...freaking do it. I guarantee nobody got done clearing for bigger tires, slapped em on and said man i really regret that I wish I could go back to smaller tires. Just have to be willing to go through with it.

 

x2

Do you run 16.5 inch rims with hummer tires?

 

Yup. I've found the tires on ebay and craigslist. I'm sure there are other sources as well. The wheels are harder to come by. Username mentioned the wheels he recommends on his first post on page 1.

 

Yes, they are 16.5's. I got my wheels and tires from TWF. http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Tires

I ran the goodyears for almost 50K miles without a single flat. To put it in perspective, I destroyed 9 KM2's in the one year before I got them and destroyed several rims. Military tires are tough, and built on the same carcass as race tires. They did have a pretty hard rubber compound and not much traction on icy roads. I just got a replacement set of BFG baja's and had them grooved from TWF. They do very well, and feel like a similar compound and performance to KM2's traction wise, but with a heavier carcass. Did I mention they are heavy? 150lbs per corner heavy. ARP wheel studs are required. They were almost brand new, for $200 a tire. I bought a lightbar from him and also got free shipping. The cool thing is I swapped the tires myself. No tire machine needed!

 

Anythings possible... Just depends on how much you want to spend, and the balls to start cutting. I have 36" Iroks, and could easily fit 37's. I did a 2" body lift with my 3" camburg coil overs. I also moved my body mount back about 4", and cut the firewall a bit. I also took about 3" out of my fenders.

If done all over again the only thing Id consider doing different would be the body lift. I think I could fit what I have with only 1-1.5" body lift.

 

36" Iroks

 

Looks like this

 

Interesting.

 

Learning a lot here. Mostly I'm going to need to sell a kidney in the near future

 

I don't think anything works on ice other than chains or studs. The Goodyears were a little sketchy on ice, but the BFG's have a softer compound and are less frightening.

BFG baja's actually have a couple of different patterns. They all do fantastic in the desert, but you are right. The Military pattern is more mud oriented.

Baja T/A's


Baja KR2


And of course the military pattern, hand grooved (icy and not aired down)-



Military pattern ungrooved.

 

You guys are going to cost me waaaayyy too much money!

With all that extra weight, have you done anything to strengthen other components? New axles or steering linkage or anything?

 

I haven't. I do have longer axles up front for the LT, and they are made out of 300M steel, but the shaft isn't typically what breaks anyway. I figure I'll upgrade to a ford 9" at some point, but I have a lot of dirt miles on the stock Toyota elocker without issue.

 

Fluffer: I like you build, I have a question for you... how are you running the stock elocker with the 37s? Are you regeared? I thought you have to change out your carrier if you go under 4:10s

 

Since I posted that I have upgraded to a new Diamond axle. The stock E-locker was running 4.88 gears, and instead of changing the carrier in the front I put in an ARB. The ARB up front still works great. The stock rear axle lasted me almost 100K miles, and would last a lot longer if you don't drive like you are possessed. The last time it blew I was bouncing of the rev limiter in second, and had just hit the elocker button between the first gear second gear shift. The elocker wasn't quite engaged, and it took out the side gear and an axle, then when the rear diff locked up it bent the driveline. Don't engage the elocker and pin it. Wait for the light to stop blinking.
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