3.4L Timing belt lessons learned/ helpful suggestions.

Yeah, this was how I did it. I used a 6"+3" skinny extention. No need to remove the ac unit.

I also broke the crankshaft bolt lose by putting the braker-bar on the cs bolt and the handle under the driver's side part of the frame and turn the key for half a second.

 

and when you get through and rotate the engine around and try to check if the timing belt marks are still aligned.......don't be alarmed when they aren't. It has to rotate quite a few times before everything lines up again. Did my last one over 3 times because I got all anal about this particular one and wanted to double check then got frustrated before I finally looked up that particular bit of info.

and yes to the breaker bar method. Done this on many cars for years. I can see it going wrong but it's soooo much easier than getting loose a red loc-tited bolt that's pretty stuck with an impact.

 

Thinking of ordering up this kit from eBay.. Not sire if it's a good price or not....


http://www.ebay.com/itm/190580749105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

I bought my kit from that same seller (aircabinman) on ebay... I think the general consensus around here is that's the best price for genuine OEM Toyota parts. I bought the $330 kit though because it came with all new accessory drive belts too.
Edit: This is the kit I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-TI...|Make:Toyota|Model:Tacoma&hash=item2a144a37e8

 

Couple questions...

Do you need a special tool to hold the crank pulley when reinstalling the crank bolt?

Do the spark plugs have to be removed when rotating the motor to get it to TDC?

 

Nope and nope.
For the crank pulley I took off the torque converter cover (where the engine meets the trans) and wedged a screwdriver into the ring gear to hold the crank still. You'll need a decently strong screwdriver but it works.
Removing the plugs would make the engine easier to rotate because of the lack of compression, but you still can rotate it with them in. I left them installed.

 

Thank you! I'll be tackling this in the next couple months.

 

Anyone have any input on that grinding noise I explained? Think it could be the water pump or one of those timing belt pulleys like the idler roller or tensioner roller going out? I've checked the other front end belts and pulleys and I'm pretty sure it's none of those. I first thought it was the idler pulley but replaced it with no change.

 

If you buy a timing belt kit, anything that could make that noise, except the alternator or PS pump will be new. Noise should be gone

 

Thanks for posting this. This will help when I have to change my timing belt next year!

 

It could be anything really... need more info than "grinding noise". got an audio clip that you could post for us?

This^ if the noise is coming from under the timing covers.

My pleasure

 

Thanks for the write up doing mine soon.

 

Yeah I thought about doing that. See if I can pick it up. Basically it sounds just like an idler pulley would sound if it was really bad. That's why I'm thinking it's one of the internal pulleys..

 

I just bought this kit as well for my 2wd pre-runner. I am going to try and tackle the timing belt and water pump this weekend.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190580749105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

This kit comes with a new hydraulic tensioner:

1 Hydraulic Tensioner Toyota 13540-62021


Would I still need to buy the tensioner tool?:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Tensioner tool with pin (Schley SCH97300 - $47)


This is my first tacoma, and I am not really mechanically inclined. But my father-in-law is good with tools so I am asking him to help me.

I just want to make sure I have all the tools before hand!


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No you don't need that tool. The tensioner comes in the box already compressed and with the pin in it. Just don't remove the pin until you have the new tensioner and new belt installed. you might need that tool if you planned to reuse the old tensioner but not if u use the new one.

 

So do I pull the pin on the current tensioner to remove it? I am not sure about how to go about taking off the current tensioer. I am going to replace it with the new one.

 

Still don't need the tool.

The procedure in the shop manual, and what I did on my '03 Tundra 4.7, was to compress the tensioner and stick an allen key through the hole.
Of course, the shop manual referenced using a press, while I used the floor and my knee.....

The current tensioner does not have a pin in it. The pin holds it in the compressed position for installation, and is removed to apply tension to the belt after installation.

For your current tensioner, start backing off the bolts that hold it a couple of turns at a time, alternating one bolt then the other. This will gradually release pressure and allow you to remove the tensioner without bending or breaking the mounting tabs.

Inspect, clean, and compress the tensioner using the tool of your choice, then insert an allen key through the holes to lock it down.

 

^This^ adding to OP.