RCD club, how many are in?

I got all my stuff on order and waiting for the UPS Santa clause to bless me with his presence.

 

I didn't change my lines to stainless solely for performance. The factory steel line above the rubber line was bent pretty shitty. So I decided to do extended stainless and get rid rcd's brake line drop bracket. I did the rears as well to maintain pressures. I can deff tell a diff between rubber and stainless. They feel tighter and a little more responsive. Again not required, just really watch how the factory steel line gets bent in on the frame rail behind the rubber flap. Mine got bent not so pretty lol. I replaced those short factory steel lines as well. There is a guy on here selling stainless line any length over stock you want. 106.00 for all 4 plus whatever shipping you choose. Any color you want too. Look up OCTaco if interested. Really fast turn around.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience. I decided I will be upgrading to stainless when I have my kit installed. Just entered my order into Alcan's website, now waiting for the phone call to finalize the order!

 

Ya there is no prob at all using what they supply for the brake lines, just be careful when you bend the front one is all. The stainless is just a nice added addition.

 

Yay count me in to the straight axle club, lol. Dropped her off at the shop this morning and got the spring seats flipped, fresh tire balance and alignment. Part of me is happy all is correct now and part of me misses the extra inch lol. Those 295's are def tight in there now. Not rubbing but dam close at full lock.

 

looking sweet NoRemorse.
Just drove mine home been sitting on jack stands since saturday waiting for the wheels to show up.
The ride is better than expected and everything in the kit is all you need to complete the job.
Wished I had gone with the longer brake lines instead of bending the stock tubing but that will happen soon.
I have a set of LR and All Pro UCA's been sitting in the garage collecting dust that I have to decide which to put on along with a set of Toytec and Icon coil overs but they won't fit with this lift.
Just a heads up for those doing the install yourself you will need a 12mm or 14mm allen head (can't remember) to remove one nut on the diff and the only place I could find one that size was at harbor fright,
For those that don't have a compressor or electric impact before removing the calipers have someone on the brakes to loosen the axle nut.

 

We hit the same issue with no 12mm allen head on hand You can use a torx bit as well in a pinch. I don't recall the size but it worked flawless.
Truck looks awesome man. And of course the color is the best Tacoma color ever lol.

 

Did you remove those silly little flaps in front of your tire? Mine grabbed the tire when reversing.

 

Nice! I wonder if they would rub while flexing off-road being that tight. Now you'll have to take it back so they can flip the spring seats over again!

I took those off the day I drove it home from the lot lol

Truck looks sweet! I agree with NoRemorse, best color ever!

 

My rub is going to be the cab mount sadly, and yes it would def hit off-road. She will never see that but I'm sure it will hit turning in certain cases. I hate to have to cut it but I might have to for now. I'm already plotting and scheming how put her to 5" all the way around lol. Just the correct way this time hehe. For now I figure I'm going to order my 4" Alcans and get those installed. Then figure out a plan to get the front up 1" and then just add a block to the rear to level it out. I wish it was as easy as just flipping the coil seat lol. Sadly that leaves chance of the spring slipping into the side of the strut seeing as ther is no centering bump on that side of the seat. So for now the addiction continues lol.

 

You could put a top plate spacer in and get a little more lift.

 

Was thinking that to, was curious if I would need to do uca to get the alignment in spec.

 

What's your caster at now?

 

I have the same front bilsteins and added a 1/2 top plate spacer which will give you about 3/4 of extra height. But you should put the longer bolts in the top hat if you do so which I did and I run the lr uca's

 

Getting my alignment done right now as I sit next door sucking down a rum and coke waiting for my whole fried talapia, Got the firestone lifetime alignment for $199 that's $50 more than the last time I got it.
NoRemorse did you like the hight before you flipped the bottom coil perch? I could always machine a spacer out of any material got lots of aluminum and carbon steel you could place on the bottom of the spring instead of a top plate and you could go any size.

 

I have no idea what the caster is/was lol. I know it was in the green before and after the coil seat flip. I loved the height before the seat flip. Hated the nose high, but that was a Easy fix with the rear. Funny how a single inch changes that much lol. If hadn't seen or felt the extra height it prob wouldn't even be want. With 5" the axle angles were not bad at all. Pointed down, but not extreme.

 

I think I might have my coils flipped just for that extra inch. I need all the space I can get for my 315s

 

End result on alignment should be the same as you previously had with the seats inverted if you add top plate spacers. If you were happy with how it drove with the caster, it should be fine.

Although the alignment numbers for caster may be within factory spec, that doesn't necessarily mean it's ideal for our modified trucks. It's within spec for smaller, lighter stock wheels/tires, and stock suspension. With the suspension modifications, additional width, diameter, and rotational mass of larger wheels/tires, the additional caster helps the tires from out-driving the truck. It will be noticeably more stable driving. It won't wander, have twitchy steering, or suddenly jerk to the left or right when hitting a bump. The $400 UCA purchase is well worth it. This is all just my opinion though.

 

I love your input wobble, I def would prefer to get new uca and most likely will in the end. It's just burning thru my wallet at the moment lol. I just need to deal with the cab mount rub sooner than later is all. It doesn't rub under normal driving. I wouldn't be as concerned if it was just plastic it is going to rub on, the tire grabbing the steel cab mount doesn't seem like a great out come lol. So here is my plan for now. I'm open to input and opinions of course.


1. Get a 1" top plate leveling spacer. in theory this would have the same effect as it would on a stock truck as far as the cv angles go. and keeping the alignment specs in check or attainable. Am I correct in thinking that the top plate spacer would keep the coil compression the same, and the strut in it's normal working travel? If I understand it correctly it's just moving the strut and coil down 1".

2. My plan for the rear is this at the moment.
Order the the custom 4" Alcan leaf like I had planned anyway. Then add a 1" block to level it to the front, or whatever block size I need to level it. My thinking here is if I go with the 4" leaf pack it leaves me the option to tweak the height to anything I want over 4".

3. In a month or 2, purchase UCA's to complete the project and have a beer, lol.

Also a couple of questions for you. Where did you get your UCA's for 400?
Whats a good top plate spacer to get?(was looking at AllPro's for like $80)
Do you know where to buy rear spacer blocks in any size?

As always big thanks to all for the time and effort helping with my addiction hehe.