Anything welding

I have to say that quick disconnect is a blessing and a curse. It's actually why I got a whole new torch. There was some kind of problem with the way the some part of the disconnect was working so they swapped it all out.

 

Good to know. What problems were you experiencing, or would it just not work.

 

I'd get the arc start, it'd barely cut a piece of sheet metal before it choked. It acted a lot like an intermittent electrical connection-maybe the ground clamp (which was a super shitty one to begin with). Anyway, checked all the obvious stuff, clamp, consumables. Replace the consumables and still wouldn't work.

Dropped it off for repair and as it turned out, the Hypertherm dude was there and looked at it right away. He tested the ground clamp theory by cutting it-sort of-and then just cut the ground cable all together. Traced the problem to the connector and ordered a torch/connector. Easy peasy.

 

Interesting, good it worked out. We got a 1000 for our CNC,I was surprised by the ground clamp, the one for our Miller 375 is way better yet still anemic IMO.

 

I know I had some issues with my torch connection when I first picked it up.. Had to clean the contacts.

Mine has pin connectors, with a screw in collar.

Pretty sure the newer Hypertherm's just have something like a single button quick connect. Kind of like a shore power cord, single latch on the connector.

It's weird, every once in a while I won't be able to start an arc, I know these units are super picky about air pressure. Just bumped up my pressure to the machine regulator/changed consumables.. It's like a new machine.

I hear you on not wanting to go Chinese. I really like the fact that mine was made in New Hampshire. One of their lead salesman (jimcolt) is pretty active on pirate and weldingweb.

 

Jimcolt is one of the reasons I want to get a hypertherm, that and the good things I hear.

 

Highly recommend a Hypertherm. My PM65 runs a lot and has always treated me well.
Plasma cutting is a but finicky by nature, but the machine has always performed admirably. On everything from CNC cutting 14ga to 3/4" thick and hand cutting a little bit of everything as needed.

 

I really like reading the guys from Everlast and Longevity bash Hypertherm.. Pretty funny to read reviews of their products..

Shoot.. If you buy and older machine, I'll sell you my hand torch. Want to upgrade mine to the Duramax torch.

 

The are super picky and although most people run them with small filters, those large moisture filters at the machine end are preferred to help keep the air line gunk out of the machine.

 

I have an older Hobart gas welder/generator, I've used it to weld on the trailer, and fab braces and brackets. My welds aren't pretty, but I've never broken one. Thinking on buying one of Eric's DIY bumpers, rear, will this welder with the proper rod work OK for this project?
Hobart Champion 4500 8hp stick welder, about 10 yrs old.

 

Put the new .030 wire in today and it seemed to make a pretty noticible difference. Still working on consistency and travel speed. Am I on the right track?

2 Welds in this pic, both pulling. Right side is with heat on 3, left is with it on 4 of 4. Excuse the burn through lol.



Both of these are pushing with heat on 4 out of 4.

 

The first picture looks like you're getting closer on heat; the lower two look like they're too hot and too fast of a travel speed. For some reason your welds look really dirty, like you aren't getting adequate gas coverage. How does your nozzle look? Using the right size contact tip for your wire size? Good ground?

I wouldn't add any oscillation until you start to see the basic formation of a puddle in your welds. I think a lot of guys (myself included) can get hyper fixated on the MIG like TIG thing..

Do you have a guide for welding parameters on that machine? Most of them will have a chart that'll give you wire speed, amperage etc.

Are you welding outside? The slightest bit of wind will deflect your shielding gas!

They're looking better, it's frustrating when you're first getting going. I second the good advice that weldingtipsandtricks.com has.

 

keep the amps up. If your using gas it should be around 20-25cfm. slow down and use and lower case e or u torch motion.

 

you beat me to it...lol

 

Good to know I'm at least headed in the right direction! I was also thinking they were looking very dirty. I had high hopes for gas and the lack of cleaning too. The nozzle has a very slight bend in it and I've noticed that it gets trash built up in it very fast. I try to tap in on the ground to knock the buildup out after every few beads. I also noticed that my mask is getting covered in the brown soot as well.

Contact tips are the correct size (.030), I clean my ground area thoroughly with a flap disc, and I am welding in my garage with the door up with no fans and no wind at all.

In the last 2 pics I was pushing (left to right) so if I were to use a "u" motion would it be better to do an upside down u so that the curve is leading the bead or a regular u so that the u dips back into the puddle?

 

roll a cursive lower case e into the next e as you move down the joint get comfortable stretching the bead out.

 

I think you mean cfh. At 25cfm, you'd run out of a 125cf bottle in no time

 

Second and third decent welds:



Any suggestions on what setting to mess with or techniques to use?? I'm on a Chicago electric 170 with Lincoln .035 flux core wire, min heat and 5/10 for wire speed. The steel is just some old rusty 1/16 inch that I ground the surface of clean

 

Problem solved, fuck yeah!



Now we can really get down to fine tuning

 

thanks, you are correct

knock all that slag off so you can see the full weld. That material looks pretty nasty. Make sure you are cleaning it down to shiny metal. I would only use .035 Flux core wire on 1/8" material or thicker. good luck!

Looking good.. What changes did you make to get it better?