Florida B.S. Thread

dont lift it to high, those CVs are gonna break once you man up and do the swap

 

something like this Tim

http://www.armortechoffroad.com/2005--2013-Tacoma-Universal-Shackle-Flip-Kit_p_334.html

and this

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-xj-lift-shackles-1077.html

pshhhh....CVs who needs those silly things, they just get in the way

 

looks great, rides as expected, I don't really notice a difference, I had 2'' spacer in there before, now, 3''

 

my baby must sit higher than Nams....time for 35s and find a setup for the rear to raise it up

 

there should be a few vendors that make custom leaf springs, like alcan or deaver or something?

 

you coming out again? http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/florida/329148-june-citrus-meet-9.html#post8680822

 

yes haha I know, Im just messin with ya, for the time being I think I may just lower the COs

 

The rivets aren't too bad, you will need to enlarge the holes for the bolts first.

 

Weld EVERYTHING!

 

Alfuh, just stop. Then next week you want a 3" body lift and some 40s and no. Stop here it's high enough off the ground. I approve this message.

 

FIFY

 

For the shackle flip, you do want to have it bolted. welding inaddition to the bolts is of course only going to make it stronger, but a bolt is needed because of our frame construction. we have double wrapped c-channel frames. i can't recall the exact thicknessm but say we had 1/4'' thick frames. they are not actually made of 1/4'' steel, but rather two layers of 1/8'' steel. therefore, when you weld, you are only welding to the outer layer of steel, which is only half the thickness of the frame overall. it's ok where we weld sliders and farther forward on the frame because of the dimensions and fact that it is completely boxed up front. as soon as you get to the forward leaf spring hanger though, the frame starts to get smaller, and is smallest (and weakest) at the rear shackle hanger. this is why toyota uses those rivets on the shackle hangers. with a rivet or bolt, you are engaging the full thickness of the frame, vs half of it that you get with a weld. and if you turn up the welder high enough to penetrate through to the inner layer, because there is a transition from the outer layer to the inner layer, you will more than likely have a blow through on the outer layer.

spark notes:
ok = weld
good = bolt
best = bolt and weld

 

So it's actually good that I have bolts going through the lower holes all the way through to the crossmember? I thought I was just being paranoid at that point. Good to know.

Also does this then mean that the rear hangers on a kit like DMZ's sua is not that strong since it is welded directly onto the frame?

 

calm down man, im just playin around, my front end is sitting way too high, im about to go out and lower it, looks cool and all, but I dont think it needs to stay that high...oh and body lifts....never in my lifetime

 

Think the Detroit is a bad idea. Just sayin' lol

 

Whys thay?

 

Aren't Detroit lockers all time? Like posi?

 

very possible, was talkin to spruce and aerial taco about it, unless I get scheduled for that saturday, i should be down

 

Yeah, theyve been using them for decades. Its the cheapest non selectable locker that wont chew up your tires.

 

Figured it'd be more wear on the tires, not ideal in wet situations. I'd just swap in an E-locker axle...