I decided to go full on idiot....

That is going to be like driving around a 4wd speaker. Awesome.

 

That's great. 4wd speaker...haha!

 

There is no way I can keep anything on the back wall. It all has to be cut out. The boxes are being notched for the bar going all the way across. There's no way they can be built around the jack handle (whatever you call it).

I have to find a place to put my jack and lug wrench now also. I haven't come up with any good ideas yet. It definitely won't be in the cab anywhere. I think it is about time for a black diamond plated truck box....

 

They each have their own amp??? Not tracking.

I have the same components, the same JL Audio 700/5 and (1) 10W1v3...all ran off of the 700/5. It sounds amazing. Great choices.

 

Yeah. I started with just the 700/5, components, and a single 10tw3 running off the sub channel and components on the front and rear. That lasted about a week. Had to add a second sub so I got a deal by buying them together. My local shop matched an online dealers price with tax included (can't beat that) so I did it. It sounds good now so after I add the extra sub, amp, and some Raamat/Ensolite it should be somewhere near kick ass status.

As for them sharing the same air space, you never want them doing that if they have their own amp. It is really hard on the subs if they aren't synced up. Basically, I have one box with a TW3 running off the 700/5 and the other box running off the 300/1. The 700/5 completes it with the front and rear on the components.

Side note for anyone with a XD700/5. If you choose to add a mono amp (specifically the XD300/1 in my case) note that there are inputs and preouts on some of the amps. I am able to run 2 sets of RCAs (head unit preouts 4v) into the 700/5 for the components (bridged in my case) then I send the other set from the sub channel on deck (also bridged and via preout 4v) to the input of the 300/1, then run a short RCA set from the preouts on the 300 to the input of the 700, which lets me maintain preouts to everything. May not seem like much to some people but it helps in the SQ department for sure (as long as you are also using good RCAs). I'm just bored and rambling at this point...

P.S. I don't know the science behind the 4v thing. I only know what the professionals tell me. I would suggest asking one if you plan on doing this. I'm a tinkerer so I like to do it all myself. In the past I have blown subs, fried amps, etc....try this at your own risk or read the manual (this has been my choice since I turned 30 and grew the F up).

 

do you have access to a volt meter? use it to set your gains so each sub is seeing the same amount of juice.

4v gives you a stronger signal into the amp. less gain you need to apply from the amp, which typically means less noise. cheaper amps get more noisy the higher up you turn the gain (hisssssssssssss), but those JL amps should be pretty clean. 4v used to be a luxury, but it's pretty standard now.

 

We have an O-scope

 

Yeah, I am aware. I currently have zero gain on my components (I originally had it at about 1/8 of a turn and it was a little overbearing, but was not clipping or hissing) and they scream at 3/4 volume. I have my sub (safely set) between 1/8 and 1/4 turn. I am nowhere near the danger zone on any of it. I learned my lessons on all of this in my teens/20s. LOL.

I am guessing that the gains will stay all the way down on the components (1/8-1/4 at the most after a serious tune) and the subs will both stay about where they are now. I am gonna scope the head unit and find its clipping point, then the amps. Once I recover money-wise from buying all of this nonsense I am going to have it professionally tuned and timed. Should be pretty awesome. I never thought I would invest a small fortune (to me anyway) in a system for a regular cab truck. Just like the title says, FULL ON IDIOT.

EDIT: I meant to add an update for everyone. The boxes are built and waiting on the carpet to show up. They should be finished tomorrow. I will add pics later this week. The sound deadener will be here soon and I hope to get that in by the weekend. Then, hopefully we will have it all in by the end of the day Saturday. I will keep you guys posted...

 

I used the volt meter for my settings, no o-scoper here.

My system could use a tune though, my ears are crap after all my deployment experiences.

One question I have and have been meaning to ask manufactuers is...Do I set the HPF or subwoofer LPF on the deck or leave those off and leave the filtering to the amp?

Or, do I set it on the deck and the amp and use both?

I have always wondered that.

 

I would use one or the other - not both. Set it from the HU if you need to adjust on the fly or like to take your time getting it "dialed in". Set it from the amp if you need more finer controls.

Most HU's have steps (e.g. 60 Hz, 80 Hz, 100 Hz), while amps are almost always continuously variable. One of the downsides to using the amp is that you don't know exactly what frequency you have it set at. You have to play with until it sounds right.

Without getting into too much technical blabber, cascading filters causes additional phase shifts that will adversely affect your sound. Only one is needed to filter unwanted frequencies.

 

I always run my deck flat with everything "off" and let the amp do the work. There really is no wrong way so long as you have had it properly tuned and leave it alone once it is set. On the 700/5 my personal preference is to use LP with a 24db curve on the sub at 80hz. I run my components (safely) on hp with the x1 setting at 120hz. I then have the crossovers in the "reference" position for my components.

If you choose to use the deck it will need to be fine tuned and left alone (for the most part). Small adjustments here and there are OK but moving your EQ around a lot or hammering at the sub with bass boost can be a bad thing. So, my opinion is that either way you do it there are limitations and advantages. Up to you. Mine sounds great the way I run it and I am very pleased with it.

 

Crossovers in "reference"? Please explain.

My 700/5 is set to I THINK a 12db curve at about 80 for sub and around 120ish for the components...I honestly don't remember.

I also have everything "off" such as bass boost and things in my deck (Pioneer 4300DVD) with a little tweaking on the EQ but not far off of flat.

I have the HPF in the deck off but it won't let me turn the LPF off for the woofers...I have to chose between like 50, 63, 80, 125 etc. I have it set at 80.

It jams as I am sure yours does too. I just know that with my shit hearing something to could be done better.

 

One more update: the last of my install parts are coming in today (ground/d-block, connectors, and wiring). The HushMat will be here tomorrow. I am going to try to get the hooks and jack holder removed today. The boxes are being carpeted and will hopefully be finished today as well. I am going to attempt to get the damping material installed before the weekend also (I highly doubt this though). It won't be a big deal to come back and put it in later if I do get the system in first. I would only have to remove the door panels and the sub boxes to deaden the parts I planned on doing in the first place. No biggie.

Side note: HushMat was recommended by a local shop (he said it stands up to the Georgia heat much better than the other products out there). I was able to acquire 19 square feet of it for 100.00 (the shop that recommended it wanted 160.00 for it). I decided to buy it from Eclectic_Mart (on eBay) if anyone is looking or interested and wants to save a few bucks. John is my guy over there. He's an awesome dude. They are in GA and can ship in one day. I originally wanted to go with Raamat but decided against it after I realized I would have to put two layers of deadener in (the BX material AND the Ensolite). I feel like that is a lot of work compared to putting in one layer and being done with it. I went with black so my back wall won't look like its wrapped in tin foil. LOL.

So, I am signing off until I get the install done. It is going to take me a good 3-4 days (hopefully I can dedicate at least a couple hours a day to it) to complete the entire thing with my schedule the way it is now. I am getting married next weekend and leaving for Cancun for 8 days after the wedding. My goal is to have it completely finished before then. I am going to try to take a lot of pictures. Either way, the stereo part of it SHOULD be completed by Saturday or Sunday unless I run into issues. I will update the thread when it is completed.

 

12/24db settings just have to be played with and let your ears decide. Mine sounds better in 24 if I am not mistaken. One setting is for the sub firing from a trunk/hatch and the other is geared more towards the sub being in a cabin (don't quote me on this but I believe that is correct). The manual should explain.

There are 3 positions on the x-overs that come with the C2s. One makes it extremely tinny, one is a "middle" position or "reference", and the other is less tinny.

As far as the filters go, I don't know why your deck wouldn't have an option to turn them all off. That is strange. You may need to take a peek at the manual to see if it is possible or not. I have never seen a head unit that doesn't allow that. The only ON setting that I have is the "subwoofer" and it has to be on for the sub to play. I run a AVH-X8500BHS (Pioneer) so you should have similar settings on yours.

Hope this helps...

Edit: your other settings sound fine other than the LP on the deck. If you have the money to spend (tuning can be expensive depending on how far you take it) and there is a local shop that tunes with an O-scope or DD1 I would highly recommend it. I use the one I have access to for just the gains and deck clipping.

 

Ok I gotcha on the refernce position. I took that little pin as being a octave curve for the tweeter using either -3db, 0db, and +3db octave. And yea, the manual does explain it...just been a while since I have been in it.

I will have to look up the part about turning the LPF for the sub off.

Either way, enjoy your system!

Edit: Just looked at the C2 manual....yead middle is reference. Also, the deck doesn't allow to turn off the LPF filter. That's odd coming from Pioneer but oh well.

All this talking about it has made me itchy. I'm tweaking tonight after the kids go to bed!

 

Yeah, that is exactly what it is. I don't claim to be a pro at all and I didn't know the correct term for it so i just used the best description I could think of. LOL.

Enjoy your system. I can't wait to finish mine!

 

What all do you have left to do?

 

Close, cept mine is 2 wheel..

 

Not necessarily..I'm 5'10" and mine need 6 inches depth

 

Wrench under the passenger seat, jack on the floor behind the seat..that's how I keep mine