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45acp’s DIVORCED build!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by 45acp, Jan 15, 2012.

  1. May 25, 2014 at 12:42 PM
    #2341
    nfs257

    nfs257 Well-Known Member

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    I was offer to buy it. Lol I'm gonna be looking 30 and up. Lol since my stock is 21,
     
  2. May 25, 2014 at 9:17 PM
    #2342
    Whitecloud

    Whitecloud Cloudy-fabricator of things

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    ICON Extended travel Coilovers, Custom leaf pack, custom sliders and F&R bumpers, 295 75 17 Toyo Open Country MT's, On-Board air with F+R connectors, On-Board water with quick disconnect shower.Trimmed fenders and body mount chop. LOTS of wiring, dual battery setup, Solar charging system, with some random lights spread around here and there.
    It would probably be better to get as large a cell as you can. Less fuel stops during the race, and then valve shocks and brace the frame accordingly. Just my 2c.
     
  3. May 25, 2014 at 9:30 PM
    #2343
    nagorb

    nagorb Should be a dang perma mod

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    My thoughts exactly, though not from a racing perspective. When going on trips wheeling/calling the bane of my existence is watching the fuel gauge. When I'm camping gas stations are usually a good distance, and who wants to go to town when that's exactly what your trying to avoid:mad: if I could I would love a25+ tank, 16 with shity has milage sucks.
     
  4. May 25, 2014 at 10:37 PM
    #2344
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Yeah I have a lot of leeway in regards to size and shape of the tank. Roughly a 39"W x 29"L x 20"H area, but I'd like to have room on either side for extra fluids and recover gear.

    The only thing I'm really curious/concerned about if I ran larger tanks is the change in handling characteristics between having a full versus near empty tank. Is it significant? Negligible? I have no idea. :notsure:

    Pic of the ass-end of the truck btw. I'll run a 4" round brake light on either side of the license plate, in addition to the OEM tail lights.

    [​IMG]DSC09698 by wyo_taco45, on Flickr
     
  5. May 25, 2014 at 10:44 PM
    #2345
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Gas is about 6lbs per gallon.l

    So 20 vs 32 is 72ish pounds.

    But a bigger tank will have it's advantages.

    Don't forget you can get the fluid lock racks that people make for oil and gear oil ect and mount them in the extended cab.
     
  6. May 25, 2014 at 10:48 PM
    #2346
    Whitecloud

    Whitecloud Cloudy-fabricator of things

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    Albuquerque, New Mexico
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    Superwhite 06 DCLB
    ICON Extended travel Coilovers, Custom leaf pack, custom sliders and F&R bumpers, 295 75 17 Toyo Open Country MT's, On-Board air with F+R connectors, On-Board water with quick disconnect shower.Trimmed fenders and body mount chop. LOTS of wiring, dual battery setup, Solar charging system, with some random lights spread around here and there.
    Nearly everything that I've seen/heard from a few buddies in town is that if you can mount is close to center and low it will not affect handling nearly as much as you think.
     
  7. May 25, 2014 at 11:12 PM
    #2347
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Yeah I guess if you look at it that way, 192lbs of fuel isn't gonna make a huge difference in weight.

    I like the Artec fluid crates, this one in particular

    http://www.artecindustries.com/Racing-Quart-Crate--6-qts-brake-PS-2-gallons_p_174.html

    I'll have to rifle through the rulebook again, but I thought keeping fluids in the passenger compartment was a no-no. But on that note, I suppose I could just as easily have a sealed off section of the extended cab for that purpose.

    Good to know, that's pretty much exactly where it's going to be. I'm doing my damnedest to distribute the weight as evenly as I can throughout the truck (part of the reason I moved the entire drivetrain 6" back, and kept the back end rather long [for my applications anyway]), as well as get a low COG as reasonably possible. Lots of weight on the axles, literally just the skin of the truck, and I'll be running an aluminum floor, firewall, and storage area in the extended cab portion.

    I can drop the fuel cell as low as I can with a comfortable gap between it and the upper links at full bump. But I could get it even lower if I run one of these cells meant for jeeps

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-286-432-06/overview/
     
  8. May 25, 2014 at 11:34 PM
    #2348
    Whitecloud

    Whitecloud Cloudy-fabricator of things

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    ICON Extended travel Coilovers, Custom leaf pack, custom sliders and F&R bumpers, 295 75 17 Toyo Open Country MT's, On-Board air with F+R connectors, On-Board water with quick disconnect shower.Trimmed fenders and body mount chop. LOTS of wiring, dual battery setup, Solar charging system, with some random lights spread around here and there.
    That's a good looking cell. That would give you at least another 2" of clearance near the upper links it looks like.
     
  9. May 26, 2014 at 5:51 AM
    #2349
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    :popcorn:
     
  10. May 26, 2014 at 9:35 AM
    #2350
    joshipps

    joshipps Well-Known Member

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    :drool:
     
  11. May 26, 2014 at 10:03 AM
    #2351
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    we should take a poll on the date when it rolls out for its first wheelin trip!
     
  12. May 26, 2014 at 10:04 AM
    #2352
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Look at build!
  13. May 26, 2014 at 10:11 AM
    #2353
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    i was gonna say july of 2016:D
     
  14. May 26, 2014 at 10:28 AM
    #2354
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Look at build!
    I had 2020 first... lol
    But its finally making some progress so maybe we'll get proven wrong
     
  15. May 26, 2014 at 10:40 AM
    #2355
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    I have faith of late 2015 but who knows.
     
  16. May 26, 2014 at 10:47 AM
    #2356
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    I was hoping for this time next year but the more I think about it, could very well be another 2 years (if I don't half-ass it). :pout:

    Some rough numbers on remaining costs-

    Suspension components ~ $3000
    Engine components (including turbo) ~ $4500
    Fuel cell and fuel delivery ~ $1500
    Axle components ~ $4500
    Wheels ~ $2000
    Interior ~ $1000?

    So at least another $16-18k?:anonymous: If I sell two kidneys I should be golden!
     
  17. May 26, 2014 at 12:08 PM
    #2357
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    I still say skip the turbo for a bit
     
  18. May 26, 2014 at 12:32 PM
    #2358
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Skip the turbo. Get the sum bitch running first so you can wheel. Then add turbo.
     
  19. May 26, 2014 at 12:37 PM
    #2359
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    agreed. Turbo is gonna add a LOT more time and way more money then you want to spend i bet..haha
     
  20. May 27, 2014 at 12:38 AM
    #2360
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    You guys are right. I'll need a helluva lot of time after it's running anyway to get all the bugs worked out, tune suspension, etc.

    It just seems like the turbo is a necessary part of the process, considering all the other parts involved to make it... work. :eek: Fuel pump, ecu, things like that come to mind...

    And I may or may not have ditched some parts like... a year ago. Like the exhaust manifold... and stuff... :anonymous:
     
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