Old Man Emu setups on 1st gens

I hope the pics of my truck with the 31's give you an idea of what it would look like on yours. My tires are actually very worn so yours should look better. I was thinking the same thing about the topper. I have one that's on my brothers truck that I will be taking back soon. I wonder if that will help. If I can get it back this weekend I'll take some more pics and let you know.

 

i thought i would have issues with this also, but they didnt seem to give a shit lol

 

I guess exhaust is exhaust after the cat for them.

 

Yeah, I'm hoping the settling of the suspension really helps out with the wheel well gap.

I always see pics of fresh installs and I'm a little spooked by how much gap there is...

Your 883s also have a higher spring rate than the 881s I got, so I'm hoping my comes down in the front a bit more too.

 

Does anyone else think this seems a bit off? The parking brake cable seems to be rubbing on the leaf packs. Would bending the cable guides up help with this?



edit: finally posted a pic without [/IMG] showing up on both sides of it!!

 

Congrats on the edit!!

Go back a couple of pages and read about the e-brake cable:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...ld-man-emu-setups-1st-gen-61.html#post8707963

Jace is the man. He's in Moab right now but he can definitely impart some knowledge on you.

 

The small clamps are loose, happened to mine too. Just pull them off and replace with a regular hose clamp. Mine have held up fine.

 

Nice. I just noticed mine is leaking today. It's not cracked but leaking out similar to SR5tac0s

 

My passenger inside boot is slinging some grease but nothing terrible. Not cut yet and it's been probably 10-15,000 miles I'd say.

 

Gents,

I found this awhile back on one course of action to take to fix your CV boot issues. I hope it helps.

"http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91105
Several factors can cause boots to fail. Road hazards, and the "fins" touching wearing a groove into the adjacent "fin".
Some folks seem to have issues with all the "high angle" boots in one way or another and others swear by them. I tried the Porshe 930 boots but that kind of hack job was not for me and they were not very tough.
There are also issues with installation. The inner boot can be compared to a balloon. The factory has a spec for the "assembled length" of the axle. When ride height goes up, that spec goes out the window. Differing amounts of grease/air in the boot affects assembled length. I believe this is why (independent of lift) there appears to be some "randomness" to boot wear. Simply stretching the boot durring installation and trapping more air inside will cause a significantly larger gap between the fins. However that extra air seems to seep out in time and "pressurizing" the boot with extra grease does not sit well with me.
The simple and free solution is this. Simply clamp the shaft end of the inner boot just beyond the groove it is intended to fit in. I went this route and the "fin gap" was like stock but the boot soon slipped back into the groove. I solved this with a bit of 3M weather strip cement, (gorrilla snot) as it is known on the trail. The shaft and the boot must be surgically clean. I can not stress this more. I mean that even the paint should be removed from the shaft where the boot will sit. Then clean it again with solvent. Make sure to orient the boot on the shaft in the proper relationship to the Tripod Can so the 3 bumps on the boot will line up with the 3 depressions on the can. Use OEM boot and clamp. The clamp will be tuff to install but it can be done, or just use a hose clamp. Let the glue cure for 24 hours if you can. This does not appear to cause any undoo stress on the boot. Try to fill the boot and the joint housing with grease, it's not critical, but try to get most of the air out.
No slips, leaks or wear in 5 years and 100k miles.

Here is a shot of a spare shaft with the "Boot Slide Mod". I would bet a piece of light safety wire could be employed to "tie" the inner shaft clamp to the outer once the inner was slid and clamped. This could be done on the truck and not require the cleaning or the glue."

 

Good to know. I'd have more peace of mind just replacing the whole thing.

 

So I ran into a pretty big problem today. I tried mounting my new tires 33x10.5x15's with stock rims and found out that the front tires hit the upper control arm.

 

cheap solution is wheel spacers. The expensive solution is aftermarket UCAs.

 

Weird, I have same tires and no biggy. U get an alignment? I did install wheel spacers though for more breathing room.

 

This is what it looks like with the 31x10.5R15's. I don't know if you can tell but the top of the tire sits right under the UCA


Here's another view

The 33x10.5x15's are slightly "wider/bulgier" and when the truck was lifted for swapping tires they sat tucked underneath the UCA's. When I tried to lower the truck the UCA's rested on top of the tires.

 

Here's what my truck looks like now

The new tires on the back and the old ones up front. I was thinking of getting spacers, but a buddy of mine is going to try and get me some wheels with a different offset to see of that solves the problem.

Also the rear wheels seem to be off center

I think there's a shim I can get to correct this.

 

Yeah man, looks good! There is a shim to address the off center wheel but tbh I haven't found it to be an issue on mine, and mine are as bad or worse - I do stuff the rear pretty hard from time to time.

Here is a flex pic before going wheeling:


Also as to the wheels... Might be your problem. I think factory is 4.5ish. I have a set of used 4r 15" picked up for $100.00, might want to look into that or aftermarket. Not sure what your wheels are, so take the above with a grain of salt ^

 

Relocation plates:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#StdRelocationPlate

or

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=TOY-ARP-001

I still need to install the ones I bought months ago.

 

Yeah the wheel backspace is probably why your hitting the UCA. Some spacers or aftermarket wheels should fix that. I have 4" BS wheels and they have plenty of room.

The reason the 31" tire looks so close to the UCA is because the lift drops the angle of the UCA and now it's angled downward toward the tire more than when the suspension was stock.

The less backspace or wheel spacers will push the tire out enough to clear the UCA

 

Thanks for the help guys. I'm trying to get this resolved today. My buddy found some wheels but the offset I'm told is only -6mm, would that be enough to clear the upper control arms with the 33x10.5x15's installed? Any help would greatly be appreciated. I'm trying to get this done ASAP while doing a million other things today.