12v bed wiring w/ LEDs (pic heavy)

I decided to brighten up my LEER topper a little because it gets pretty dark in there at night.

Parts:
30ft 8AWG red wire
8AWG ring terminals
50' 3/8" split wire loom
25' 20AWG red/black 2 conductor wire
60AMP inline fuse
18" zip ties
5/16" rubber grommets
1" vinyl tubing

$24 Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block 6 Circuit with Ground and Cover

Blue Sea 5025 fuse block

SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs Cool White LED Flash Strip Light,LED Flexible Ribbon Lighting Strip,12V 60W

Two strips of 5050 cool white LEDs 16'
Multi Use 12v vehicle charger w/ dual USB


I started by (sort of) sealing the boxes in the side of the bed. I used 1" vinyl tubing cut in half and riveted over the holes to cover where the door locks and feet stick through.





I then sealed the bottom drain holes with 5200.



I mounted the fuse block on the back of the box incase any moisture did get in there it would be above it.



Then I drilled 2 holes on each side of the box for the wires. I used 5/16" grommets



I then ran the 8 AWG wire from my battery back to the bed box. This isn't hard to do as there is already a huge wiring harness running back there. I just followed it and zip tied the wire to the frame in a few places.

I found one of the main grounds in the rear and added my ground to the bolt.



I installed a 12v outlet with USB ports to the cubby in the side of the bed and ran the wire back to the fuse block. It was super simple and attached with 2 small screws. The cubby pops off as it is only attached with some double sided foam tape.





Next came actually wiring the fuse block. I didn't get many pictures because I did it after work one day and it was dark already.



I had to wire my topper to the fuse block as well as the tail light because it has a built in light with a switch that I want to always be hot.
(pic coming)

This is where I put the switch that controls the 12v outlets (I installed a switch because I tested the outlets and they are always drawing about 15 mA even when nothing is plugged into them).



I added another switch on top of the first to control the first set of LED lights that are mounted under the bed rail.



Here's a crappy pic of the finished product



I added two LED strips to the topper that are wired into the switch that came with the topper.
This is the finished product:


JUST FYI:
I tried mounting the LEDs to the bed rail with the adhesive 3M tape that comes on the back but after about 10 days in the hot Florida sun they melted off.
I ended up using acetone to get the adhesive off and using a VERY thin bead of 5200 to stick them to the bed. I had to tape them in place for 48 hours for the adhesive to set but now I know they won't be going anywhere.

I have yet to install the LEDs on the roof but when I do I will update again with more pictures.

 

This is pretty awesome.

 

Looks good so far but what will you do about the dirt, dust ,and water that comes up through the holes in the box? Everything that I ever put in mine got wet and dirty, right where you put your power box. If you look down through the slots where the door hooks in you can see the ground. I've often thought of going to the dollar store and buying some cheap ice cube trays and cutting them up to fasten them on the underside of the slots somehow.

 

good luck ever getting that ribbon off after applying it with 5200. the ribbons are all made in china, i suspect they'll all need replacement at some point if we keep our trucks for 5 years or more...

as far as the location for the block and junction, i have to agree Hotrod, i dont off road my truck and it gets parked in my garage, but my bed boxes are typically damp or moist, esp during rainy seasons... (could be attributed to my tonneau, vs your cap)

looks like a nice and useful install though...

 

I used surgical tubing, cut it in half, riveted it over the holes and then sealed it to the box using Blue CVT so all of the holes in the box are sealed. I rarely go off road as well.

As far as the life of the lights, I have had them in my gun cabinet for almost 3 years and haven't had a problem (they get used more often in the gun cabinet). I also put up a test strip in my truck for 2 weeks and took it off, it isn't too difficult to take off so I'm not concerned about replacing a strip every 5 years.

 

Did something VERY similar...turned out awesome!!

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/312156-shawns-build-dcsb-v6-4x4.html#post8730975

 

I need that.

I am still waiting for my Leer to come in, but when it does - I am doing this. I LOVE the idea of the RF dimmer. Awesome.