Blower Motor quit

2008 Tacoma Reg cab... My air condition/heater blower only runs on high. I was driving down the road on a lower setting a it just quit. Any ideas.

Thanks

 

If it's not corroded connections then try swapping with a known/good blower.
I dunno how hard it is to replace blower...
...it could be dirty and not able to push the fan on lower speeds....
...just grabbing at straws here.

 

Just leave it on high

 

Sounds like the resister block for the blower motor went not the blower motor itself since it still works on high speed.

 

resistor is the correct answer here for sure

 

+1, mine did the same thing, theres a thread on here that shows how toreplace it

 

Thanks, Guys

 

It's not always the resistor that is the problem. Sometimes, it's just a symptom of another problem.

If the blower is near the end of its life, or the filter is severely clogged, it draws more current. Check the connector for the resistor. If it's discolored/melted, replace the blower, and the filter.

 

Not necessarily......

When the resistor block fails, granted you can have HIGH only. In my case as well as many others, the connector on the resistor block was the problem.

When you run a lot of current through a connector as you do with a fan motor, the connector can heat up if it is lose, that heat causes the connector pins to become even more loose and eventually melt the plastic. Here is my suggestion....

(1) Put you fan on something lower than HIGH and wiggle the connector on the resistor. If it intermittently starts, remove the connector and examine. A common problem is a loose pin in that connector, this will be evident by a tell tale brown heat streak on the gray connector.
(2) if you have the gray streak, bend the pin in the connector with a dental tool or jewelers screw drive to make a better connection. This will fix the problem if this is the issue.
(3) if wiggling the connector or bending the pin doesn't fix it, replace the resistor.

In my experience, the resistor and connector are an equal percentage in the cause.

Start reading this at posting #9: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/6...3-hvac-blower-motor-resistor-replacement.html post #14 shows pictures of the issue.

 

Where can I find a replacement connector. Mine is toast.

 

there is a TSB on this problem

blower only runs on high


Technical Service Bulletin (T-SB-0149-11) which addresses an issue with the fan speed control.


http://www.tacomahq.com/1089/broken-fan-tacoma-heater-air-conditioner/

 

TSB won't help me.
Thanks for the connector links!
Here's the short way to the connector parts:
Pins: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12162597/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiUFHXjcyehgM59EJLmPe0mWkgxhM9%252boAE%3d

Connector: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12129565-B/?qs=KuseNLzMr93kvzEcKbwBSA==

 

Interesting thread. But the TSP only covers 2005- 2011. I just had the resistors go out on my 2013 Tacoma. Needless to say, I'm not happy. Based on this thread, I started checking and I have all the indications of the TSP- burnt connector, etc. I did call the dealer and they offered to install a new resistor and connector for free if I paid for the parts. But, they insist that the blower drawing too much amperage is not the problem. Has anyone else run into this with 2nd gen Tacomas 2012 and older? Have you gotten the dealer to step up?

 

They can insist all they want. When I replaced the connector and resistor, it burned up again. Then replaced the resistor, connector, and blower. Trouble-free ever since

 

I’ve soldered a 12 awg solid copper coil to the nichrome resistor strip on the pin that is overheating to act as an extra heat sink. The problem is that the “resistors” are too close to the connection and are under rated for wattage so either the resistor fries or the connector does. I’m hoping that adding both more heat sink mass as well as cooling surface area will do the trick in lowering the temp of the connector pin.

 

And a TSB is only free during the initial warranty period.

 

That's what worries me. I'm expecting Toyota will do the "repair" and within a year or 2 it will happen again. Skytower, how long have you been trouble free?

At this point, I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt, but if it happens again I will not be happy. It's very obviously a Toyota engineering design flaw. I bought this 2nd gen based on my son's failure free experience with his 1st gen.

Thank you guys for the input.

 

Actually it is a GM Engineering Design Flaw.

 

And a cheap and easy flaw to fix.

 

Interestingly, I went with the Toyota fix to the resistor. I pulled it out after they replaced it and the resistor is completely redesigned. I'm no electronics expert but it looks to me like they simplified the resistor and added what looks like a large metal plate that could be a heat sink. Bagleboy's idea to add a heat sink might be the way to go. I'll be watching to see how long this Toyota fix lasts.