Fixing my E-brake

It finally stopped raining down here and I wanted to take care of my e-brake problem before I have to start work tomorrow. People have told me to just disconnect it since there are no hills here. Where would I disconnect it? From where it splits to go to both rear wheels or is there another place to disconnect it from? Also, does anyone know the size bolt to screw in the holes in the drums to get them off? Also on a side note, does anyone know the size screw that goes with the MAF sensor? One is lost and the other is starting to strip. Thanks in advance guys!

 

Whats wrong with your ebrake? Disconnecting it doesn't seem like the right way to fix it.

 

It stuck. Acts as though its engaged when its not. Caused my shoes to fully expand which is burning my shoes up, causing me to suck up more gas, etc.

 

You need to read his prior post "Getting Fed Up" to understand his multitude of problems with his truck. The "E" brake being one of them.

Nola, hang in there man! You'll get it done, just tackle one problem at a time.

 

You could disconnect them at the bell cranks.

 

Is that where it splits?

 

Where do I go from here?

 

Nola, the screw size you need is an M4x.7x9mm phillips head. As you found out, they're tiny, buy two, they're cheap!

An offset screwdriver will make it easier to install them with. It ratchets and reverses direction. Much like the picture in the link below.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-offs...0904116000P?prdNo=20&blockNo=20&blockType=G20

 

I got some 8mmx 1.5" screws. They worked fine in getting the drum off however, one of them got stuck in the drum and I had to cut it out using a drumel. I'll get those when I do the other side.

 

The M4x.7x9mm screws are for the MAF sensor, that's what you asked for right? They are not for the brake drum!

 

Oh damn. Lol I didn't read it right. My bad haha. Thanks man. Gonna look for these when I go to Lowes tomorrow.

 

If i'm not mistaken, can't he just temporarily remove these cables to disable the e-brake?

 

Ok, just making sure we're on the same page Amigo!

 

Before you disconnect the e-brake I would try adjusting the cable, if the bell cranks are not frozen in place that is. If you have had a brake job recently the new thicker pads may have taken up the slack the cable needs. On older Taco's there is an adjustment outside under the cab. Locating the arm with the adjustment will be easy if you are under the cab looking up by having someone pull and release the hand lever. The way to adjust the e-brake will be self explanatory when you see it.

 

Disconnecting the e-brake would be a last resort for me. I use it every time I stop to park the truck, even on flat ground. And why is everyone calling it an "e-brake"? Is that the correct technical term for it? I have always called the it the "parking brake".

 

On manual transmission vehicles, it's considered a parking brake because they don't not have a "Park" gear, only Neutral. But with automatics, its considered an emergency break because they have a parking gear. Its not necessary for autos, but I use mine if I'm on the incline part of my drive way or when I have a trailer attached just for added safety. You REALLY don't want to disconnect yours because that's what keeps your truck from rolling away lol

 

What makes you so certain that the E brake is hanging up? 1st gen Tacomas had, and maybe still have a problem with the brake pedal shaft hanging up in the firewall, not allowing the entire brake system to disengage. Instead of disconnecting the ebrake, you could do some routine maintenance on em. All you really have to do is clean and lube them. Start with spraying the internals down with some brake clean. Next, remove the adjuster, count how many threads are showing on it(this will make adjustment easier) and take it apart and clean n lube it. Just goop the lube on. When you re install it, put it in with 2 or 3 less threads showing, this will back the shoes off the drum some. Now you want to lube the contact points between the shoes and the backing plate. You'll be able to wedge a screwdriver in between to pry the shoes away. The contact points should be obvious to see, just slather some brake lube on em. Then you wanna spray the drum with brake clean as well. Once you have both sides done, reassemble them and spin the drum to see if you have any binding. If you do, back the adjuster off a few clicks. These are self adjusting rear brakes, so all you have to do is drive backwards and hit the brakes a few times. If you backed the adjusters off too far, this this may take a little longer, but eventually, they will get to where they should be. You don't have to slam the brakes, just roll back down a hill and tap em. Hope this helps some, good luck with your problems.

 

First gear is my "park" gear. I apply the hand brake, e-brake or parking brake also. I use the e-brake on other vehicles I drive too, auto or manual. Murphy and all that...

 

I had the same issue with the Ebrake hanging up, I just had to adjust the brake shoes to fix it. It doesn't hold as well now because the cables are looser as a result of the adjustment and the little arm where they split from the in-cab lever is rusted to shit. I tried turning the adjustment nut in and the whole shaft was trying to spin. I could tell it was just gonna twist off so I gave up trying to turn it and have just accepted I have to yank the shit out of it now if I want it to actually hold the truck.