What is the purpose of adding a lift?

Ever seen a dog chase its tail?

The differential gears that come with the vehicle from the factory are at a given ratio for a number of reasons such as fuel economy and factory tire size. A lift kit by itself will increase wind resistance but won't dramatically alter the "feel" with stock gears.

However, as others have mentioned, the principal reason for a lift is taller tires for greater ground clearance. The taller tires mean that for every revolution of the axle shaft, the vehicle will move farther down the road. This takes more effort or work to do this thus resulting in a loss of power, fuel economy and efficiency.

By regearing, you add more mechanical advantage to the drivetrain making it easier to move that same distance. As with everything, there is a trade-off. The more mechanical advantage you apply by means of gear ratio, the more revolutions (RPM's) the engine needs to turn to move the vehicle the same distance.

 

This is what you said

which is what I was referring to. There is no point using a larger tire as there is no more approach angle issue.

I can see now why some other vehicles are more popular for off road than the tacoma, as you can see from the side view profile comparison on where the axles are.

 

There is a point to adding lift even if your axles were at the very opposite ends of the frame, Break over angle.

 

Is this even real....

 

ok. That comes into play only if you are crawling over an object (on one side) that is higher than the frame. I say on one side, because obviously it won't get past the axle if the object is between the wheels. But isn't that what "rock sliders" are for, literally? So in a sense, the extra lift will help, but is not necessary?

 

Just a few









Last two favorites are quoted in my sig...

 

Not gonna lie that black dodge.

 

All due respect that is incorrect , just about every trail we run theres going to be sections of extremely steep approach/departure angles where if you were lifted anything less than 3" inches, promise you'll be hung up on the front bumper or rear bumper

 

to make it look cool

 

Rock sliders are to keep your body off of obstacles, lift is to keep you skids and frame off of the obstacles/ground.
It's not very good to drag your frame and skids along the ground.

I believe he was saying that if the axles were all the way forward and back you wouldn't need lift for approach and departure angles.

 

Oh, my bad but why listen to the drain plug right ???

 

Here is part of the problem that you run into with that concept. The further you move the tires away from the center, the larger the turn radius, and the worse the breakover angle. Breakover angle is important in more ways than one. While this is a great exaggeration, think along the lines of a limo. Tires far away from center makes it more challenging to steer, and also reduces the size of an obstacle that you can safely traverse.

Rock sliders are mainly designed to protect the body of a vehicle from damage by rocks. Yes, you can slide over rocks ON a slider, but that requires more horsepower, which can increase the risk of breaking other things like gears, axles, and drivetrain. While approach and departure angles ARE important, they are not solely the ONLY issue. The idea is to build a vehicle that makes an even balance of ALL factors.

We have a set length of vehicle. Short of cutting the frame and/or body, or relocating where the axles are, one does what they can to get their truck capable of whatever type of offroading they would like. Mudders have one simple rule: Big tires. It keeps them high and dry. Most of the super tall rigs have no problem running through some deep muck. Take that same truck and try to rock crawl, and you are screwed! In the same sense, take a rock crawler built for that purpose and put it in the mud. It might do ok, or even better than ok, but high and dry? Not going to happen.

So the general thought is to figure out what kind of offroading you want your truck to perform the best in, and THEN figure out what is important. For me, I like a little bit of both, so I have an acceptable lift, acceptable tires, but I wheel knowing that I still have my limitations in what I can do. And I don't exceed them.

It is all about having fun, and learning your truck. I know a lot about my truck. I know the sound of the engine, the sound of the clutch, and the hum of the tires. When something is amiss, I usually know about it before something breaks, or a check engine light comes on. For example I know for a fact that right now, my A/F sensor is giving incorrect data to my ECU. I haven't read the data stream, or hooked it up to a scan tool, but I know how my truck works, and I know how my truck responds. Right now I have a spot at 2300 RPMs through 2500 RPMs where the truck acts like I threw a boat anchor off the rear bumper. Interestingly enough once I am AT that RPM, and holding steady she drives fine, but accelerating THROUGH that RPM band, she lugs bad. So I have ordered a replacement A/F sensor.

Learn your truck. KNOW what your truck is doing, and what you EXPECT it to do, and you will know what you CAN do with it. Then do your mods and see how she reacts to them. One mod at a time. One step at a time. That way when a problem comes up, you know right where to look.

 

What he's sayin is 100% correct, the condensd version is long ass increased wheelbase (bad) to a point vs short wheelbase (good) for steep

 

Looks cool.

 

I sense a trollage of mediocre proportions going on here. And for that reason... I'm OUT.

 

I'm going to have to disagree on a suspension lift allowing you to fit bigger tires. A body lift will allow bigger tires. Wether you have a 1" lift or a 3" lift your tire will still stuff at the same height unless you get bigger bump stops. If you put 33's on a stock tacoma you will have to trim the inner fender well. if you put 33's on a 3" lifted tacoma you will still have to trim the inner fender well because it will rub when the tire travels upward.. So suspension lift doesn't technically allow for bigger tires.

IMO the whole point of suspension is to give you more wheel travel. specifically down travel. It does still help with approach/departure angles and frame height.
So when you are going over big things all the tires will stay on the ground a lot easier if you have more down travel..

My whole point is basically the lower control arms still hit the bumpstops at the same height wether you have lift or not.

 

Well if YOU read the whole thing you'd see I corrected myself 4 or 5 post back, & not a Troll I'll give you my addy & you can see for yourself

 

That strictly is dependent on the vehicle. A Suspension lift raises the height of the frame from the axles. The body is bolted to the frame, hence the body also does go up some. With the axles being pushed further away from the frame, you can fit larger tires. Again it depends on the application. For example I had a chevy truck years back with 8 inches of suspension lift. I was able to easily fit 37 inch tires and they did not make contact. Granted she wasn't a rock crawler, but the fact is still the same: A suspension lift allows for larger tires, which then increases your ground clearance, which is very important.

I couldn't even FIT my 33 inch tires on my Tacoma before the suspension lift. After the 3 inch suspension lift I was able to fit them, with no cutting, and minimal rub when at full turn.

 

My point is basically that the tire will still go up into the fender the same amount stock or lifted. Yes the suspension will let you drive on the street without feeling the rub as bad on a DD. But the rub is still there and if you do any type of crawling you will feel the rub. You will still have to trim no matter what if you don't want it to rub. So you have a little rub at full turn without flexing it??

 

Here's a more accurate comparison, let's actually use a 4wd Tacoma this time.

Now tell me which vehicle you'd rather ride in for 2 hours off road on a summer, winter, rainy or snowy day? Do you really love that departure angle that much?