Oahu Members Thread

I meant a little nub so its like store bought blocks. No hardware needed

 

It's small enough that the center pin that holds the leafs together can go through the block and hold it all together. More solid than being separate. That's how the angled shims work too.

 

anything happenin' this weekend?

 

Got my radiator back in. Going to flush it and run it to temp tomorrow.

Going RC on Sunday.

 

shroud looks good.

I gotta work the weekend...might look for a rock to flex on after work on Sunday.

 

Thanks. And we're going to need pics..

 

Good old jb weld?!?

 

Hows the radiator?

 

Yup. None of the silver tin blends I had would work. Not even oldschool lead solder. Torch and soldering iron, flux no flux, all of them failed. Google seemed to think JB Kwik was a good idea.. I'll get a new dad eventually, just hope it holds till I can afford it.

Just got it up to temp, going to drain after it cools. Then do one more distilled water flush before I put the coolant in.

 

Got rid of the V6 badge and put a TRD badge on...

 

Unlike most of you guys, JB Weld is the only welding I know how to do!

 

Lol, it's all in the prep

 

wonder if rosen core would have failed too..

 

Tried some without any added flux. No go. Wonder if Nissan uses some random alloy. I even sanded down to good metal first so I wasn't trying to solder on casting slag, or any anti corrosion coatings.

 

Acid flux paste?

 

Uh, I tried both electrical flux, and plumbing flux that said it was suitable for radiators. Not sure what makeup they were though.

 

probably could have TIG'd it

 

He asked me if i could. I told him it looks too thin.

 

Yeah, was some super thin stuff..

Guess I'm looking at $550-$600 for OEM, or $350 +shipping for all aluminum good to 450HP..

 

They do have three different ones for about $150 with free shipping, but reviews are hit or miss.. One thing I did read is that the OEM radiator may be a stainless radiator.. Guess that would be why I couldn't solder it