01 4 door 1 ton SAS

Double steering? The front cost a pretty penny, not sure how much exactly.

I'll link the rear after I do an interior cage. I will probably chop the frame and build new like I did with the front, cage the rear and link the back all in one project.

 

Oh just the double steering arm or whatever it is, vs just being on the top of the knuckle.
I'm sure the rear will be just as beautiful as the front

 

Holy shit. Awesome work

 

You have to run mid-steer if you want any kind of decent uptravel numbers. I'm sitting around 5.5" of up travel.

 

Good to know. I hadn't the foggiest idea on what I should go with (except Matt's numbers). With my smaller engine and cutting/adding weight, it should be in the same ballpark as yours, so I told Ben at Filthy what my rig setup was and he picked 200/250. So hopefully that works! Are you running 2.0"s or 2.5"s?

^This. Unless you cut the shit out of it.

 

Nice work, glad to see it back on all fours! It looks real sharp, I really like the stance and how it turned out.

The July Rubicon dates are a go, so we'll be seeing you then! Keep me posted if anything changes.

 

Great work OP! The truck looks awesome!

 

You'll definitely be lighter than both of our trucks. Matt has 200/300 too and we both have more sheet metal than you do The proper way to do it is to weigh the front end, subtract axle/tire/wheel weight to get sprung weight and give those numbers to whoever you buy coilovers from. They will get you a lot closer than anyone online will.

They are 2.0. 2.5's would be stupidly big and overkill for what I need them for.

 

PM'd you

 

I'm still kinda stumped as to how you'd go about determining that. Anything short of dragging it on to a trailer and finding a weigh station.

I'm running 2.5"s ...
I assume there's going to be a negligible difference between spring rates when comparing 2.0"s and 2.5"s?

 

I never get sick of staring at this build page.

 

They make scales designed for corner weighing vehicles. I would put some kind of springs on the front, set the truck on the scales to get the full front weight then take the springs off, support the frame and rest the axle, links, shocks, tires/wheels on the scales again to figure out how much they weigh (this is your unsprung weight) then subtract it from the total weight. Should get you pretty close for determining sprung weight per corner.

Since you're planning on racing the truck, 2.5's are better. Do they have any limit on tire size? I thought the max was 37's for mod class?

Spring rates are spring rates whether you have 2.0's or 4.0's. The weight of the vehicle determines spring rate and shock size depends on how fast you want to go

 

On the plus side, I thought my PSC pump was making a whole bunch of noise but it turns out the light bar was whistling quite a bit I removed the bar and mounts until I can get around to experimenting with different locations for it. It will live on the roof but I plan to open up the holes in the Relentless mounts a bunch, make some new plates to go on the outside and weld them in place when I fine tune its placement.

 

ARB's are plumbed in and working. Winch is wired up and spooled, brake pads are squeaking still even after I put disc brake quiet stuff on the pads, not sure whats up there. Light bar is mounted for good and wired in for good, had to drill a hole in the roof and seal it off Pretty much ready to wheel at this point. We're going to a local OHV place next weekend to get it in the rocks

 

After repeatedly dealing with braking issues, I ponied up and spent cash on a dual diaphragm booster and T100 1 ton brake master. Even that won't be bolt in but I really don't like the Chevy brake master I bought. I ordered a Cadillac Escalade brake master last week and it shows up tomorrow but I'll return it. I've been fiddle fuckin around with making the Chevy cast iron POS master work but its only given me problems; having to seal it to the booster with gobs of RTV, bladders tweaking themselves from god knows what. Just over it. Its possible my booster is done but I'm not putting another single diaphragm booster in and the only logical upgrade would be a dual diaphragm so T100 it is. Ironically its the same part number for a Tacoma dual diaphragm booster so maybe it will bolt in without issue. All I know is my brakes leave A LOT to be desired, even when the stock single diaphragm booster was helping.

 

How much did it cost to build just the axles?

 

Its a big ass truck with big ass wheels . What size are your rotors/pads?

 

Somewhere around 5k.

Rotors are 12.5" front and 12" rear. Basically means the stock single diaphragm booster isn't enough

 

Cool thanks man. Looking into the best strongest/cheapest option for axles.

 

I believe you, just curious...