Not Happy with Lift

Light racing are not a uniball design. You get more reach with a uniball. TC and ICON are.

 

That's interesting, because when I bought my 5100s, I was debating between OME/Toytec/5100 only. Toytec told me over and over that the OME springs were not designed with the 5100 and they wouldn't recommend them. I've ridden in OME vehicles (Jeeps) before, and they rode great with the OME shocks.

 

You can mix the 883 and 884s. Its not Ideal but it will work. You should not mix the 885s or 886s. They should only go on OME shocks.

 

Learn something new every day.

 

Depends completely on the coils and shocks. If you buy them together it should say if one will be required and some companies will include it.

 

If you are not going to run extended travel and you are going to keep your sway bar on. You may want to run Light racing UCAs. Saves money, less maintance, and you should be able to get an alignmnet just the same.

 

Blocks are not great, buts its only a 1.5" block so its not that bad. Also if he switches to an AAL this will stiffen the ride up, unless he wants this I wouldn't recommend the AAL.

Agree on the LR UCAs for his type of driving and for alignment correction.

I wouldn't preload the coil and would just leave the 5100 setting at ZERO. Why recommend this? Did he want more lift??

Why spend a grip more money on a performance based UCA when you can pay half for UCAs that are specifically designed to correct and add more alignment adjustability? Unless he plans on blasting through the rough stuff or hitting the 4x4 trail pushing his truck to the limit, the LR UCAs are more than sufficient and will correct his alignment likely fixing the problem.

Possibly because some of their competitors recommend this set-up and they were late to the game in understanding the compatibility of the two brands.

 

OP- are the billies on the stock setting or did you bump them up to the .85 or 1.75?

After reading the posts I never saw anything that says you adjusted the "C" clip.

Also, it's better to add a small top plate spacer instead of preloading the coil by adjusting the C clip on the billies.

Another reason for the harsh ride is the block, although it's a small 1.5" block. Personally I think you'd be better off with a AAL/ progressive AAL/ new leaf pack.

Last, new UCA's will help relax the suspension a little bit more and allow for better alignment.

If you did set the billies on the 1.75" mark then that's why your unhappy with the lift. 884's should give about 2" lift on their own and they are around 590# per inch coil so preloading it makes it very stiff and jarring and possibly too much lift if you adjusted the C clip too high.

I'd say look into how it was installed before you remove it. Maybe just a couple adjustment are needed to get it where it should be.

 

Blocks increase axle rap and could cause a jarring ride.

I recommeded light racing but if money isnt an issue get a uniball design. As I reccomended in my last post light racing UCAs are the correct answer for many.


He needs the height to fit his 285s. So he cant put his 5100s at 0. The 884s alone would not clear the 285s at all.

 

2" would be enough. At that point it would depend mainly on wheel specs. Most people need to trim even with 3" but at 2" that should give him enough clearance to fit 33's/ 285 with a little bit of trimming and with the right wheels.

 

Agreed. unless he has a double cab. I dont think the 884s will hold a double cab at 2 inches alone. He will also rub like a mofo offroad. Its all his choice. All info is on here.

 

OP- if you want a 33" tire with little to no trimming then get some 255/85/16 or 255/80/17 and put them on your stock wheels. A 255 is a true 33" tire but skinnier that the 285 by about 1" but it's also taller than a 285 by about .5"

Some folks can fit the 255 on stock suspension with minor trimming.

 

Pizza cutters FTW!

 

first of i would ditch the block for either an add a leaf or for a new leaff pack. if your not 4x4 slap a set of spindles on there for the lift up front, it won't change the factory geo so much but will just lift your truck up 4" maxtracs makes the cheapest ones and they'll be cheaper than UCA's. Then run your 5100 with OME coils at the lowest setting so all that preload is taken off them and thats gona make your suspension ride a lot smoother, i had 5100s with 884 coils probably 3 years ago and it rode amazing set at zero on the struts. the springs are what lifts your truck up, so if you think about it the new coils you have are going to have to be either stiffer/longer in order to make the front end sit higher therefore making the ride harsher than it would be at stock height. spindles can eliminate this.

if you got the cash id keep your OME set up in the front just adjust the setting, add maxtrac spindles, and a UCA if you wanted...then ditch the block and throw an allpro pack out back and youll be sitting around 4" all around. i had this setup before going LT and my brother has that same setup aswell and it rides amazing

 

Whats a jarring ride
I have personal experience with all the mentioned rear lifts, 3 leaf AAL, single AALs, blocks, and aftermarket Leaf Packs.

Define axle wrap and discuss how the height of the block can accentuate this:

 

I just mean the axle rap on starts and stops. That's what I experienced with blocks.

 

Can't do a spindle lift on a 4x4

 

hence^^^

 

My bad. I missed that.

 

i didn't see it anywhere maybe i missed it, did OP say if he is 4x4 or 4x2?