New England B.S. Thread

Real seat FTW. My little Ninja 250 is way more comfortable to ride than my 636 was.

 

You have a ninja 250?

 

I do indeed. I bought a 2004 few years ago (2009, I think) when I was commuting 70 miles a day and wanted to save some $$ on gas. At 70MPG it was a no-brainer, and I probably nearly paid for the bike with gas savings in that first summer alone (I put 9000 miles on it that summer). Got a job working closer to home and picked up the Suzuki M50 (because MOAR POWER) and kept the Ninja. Figured I'd rather have the spare bike than the $1500 I could sell it for. Plus, the GF has her motorcycle license and she'll ride it occasionally too. And it costs me about $100 a year for insurance, and registration is only like $35. Not hurting me to keep it around.



Not mine, but same color scheme. I've got the flushmount front blinkers on mine, though.

 

Nice nice man! I want fuel savings really badly

 

Same here except I want something easier to work on for my next bike. I want to get rid of the Katana and get a single cylinder dual sport or supermoto.

 

yeah, it's nice. On average during the summer I'm only filling the tank on the Tacoma about once a month.
I actually rode the Ninjette to work today, so I snuck out on my break and snapped a picture of it.


I crunched the numbers on the first summer that I had it; paid $1500 for the bike and saved around $1300 in gas.
I don't save nearly that amount now, but the bikes are sure more fun to commute on.

I'd say that both of my bikes are easy to work on, but the adjusting the valves on the Ninja's a bitch. The process itself is pretty simple, but you've got to lose the tank and the fairing just to get the heads off.
The Suzuki hasn't needed any work at all other than fluids and tires, and it's got nearly 15k on it now. I'd call that pretty easy to work on, haha!
Edit: Wait, that's not quite true; I just remembered I had the valves checked on the 'Zuki around 8k, but it was covered under an extended warranty that the first owner had bought, so it didn't cost me anything.

 

I don't want 4 carbs any longer and definitely a naked bike. My bike isn't difficult to work on but it takes 45 minutes to an hour just to get all the plastics off before you can do anything. My old CBR I could take the bottom of the plastics off to work on it and the top still housed the headlight and turn signals so it could be riden before fully buttoning up. This one, each side is one piece and it holds the signal and headlight so you can even test ride before putting it all back together. Plus, it sits a lot now so I want a single carb, something I can take apart, clean and get back together quickly. The Katana is nice, just not practical for me right now. It only has like 11k miles and it's a 2002!

 

I thought 60k was a lot for copper plugs on any engine

 

Recommended intervals for most coppers is I think 30K. But, the electrodes typically still look like new at that interval. I had a 1993 Grand Cherokee that ran the same coppers for 60k, and every time I pulled them to check the gaps they looked great so I just kept putting them back in (being a broke college student at that point). Sold it after that, so I'm not sure how much longer they went.
On the other hand, we had an old Chevy stepside with an inline six and a one barrel carb adjusted to run wicked lean in the shop I worked at a while back, and the plugs looked just like Seth's.

 

I'm interested...pending interview outcomes

 

Damn springs took 5.25hrs shop time. For some reason the passenger side lower shock bolt was frozen (after only being on since ~Last Nov). They had to cut the head off, and press the damn thing out of the bushing. Glad I brought to the shop...but damn $90/hr...

Plus had an eye appointment and got some new glasses, so that was another ~$315. I feel much lighter right now...

 

Truck looks better now:

Before: 5100's/eibachs. Drivers 23.25" (to busted fender) from center hub. Pass 24.25" from center hubs. Crappy pic, but dat wheel gap up front...



After: Drivers 22.5" center hub to busted fender, passenger side 23" center hub to fender
Got some rake back, rides smoother, and my ball joints and cv's are much happier

 

That's strange that it was seized that hard after that short of a period of time. Especially for how clean the underside of your truck looks. Did Dave use some quick steel for locktite when you guys were under there?

 

Nope, I put them on myself while he put my stock stuff on his. Not sure, only thing I can think of is some the blue loctite i put on the nut go in the sleeve/ bushing somehow. They were baffled as well. Damn bolt made a very loud bang when it shot out of the bushing with the press

 

He did a cat delete on his truck

http://ivegotthetriforce.tumblr.com/post/89179300682/cybergata-cute-overload-errant-frazier-heard

 

Bike wouldn't start. The jets are gummed up. We pulled the tank and drained the old gas and put new stuff in, as well as drained the bowls and reprimed them. Using starter fluid, it turned over and ran for a few seconds. I want to get it but my dad probably won't let me. Fucking stupid.

 

Why are you using starting fluid? That crap is horrible for engines. Take the time and get it running right so you don't cause more damage to the engine.

 

Just need to degum the jets and I think it'll run just fine

 

That's what I mean, do it right by cleaning the carbs and get it running. Ether is not the answer, just a terrible short cut.

 

Yeah true. If I get it I'll take it apart and get it working well