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Good luck

 

Looking forward to seeing this project. I am considering a completely new system and implementing some sort of deadening. Gonna check those links.

 

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Oh man, I want to do this so bad.

 

Looks like a great start! If you need anything let me know!

 

Want: More time at night when its cooler. Need: Cold beer and a hug after realizing stuff still doesn't fit after many many fittings/trims.

 

When talking about stuff not fitting I'm assuming you're referring to the door panels? They are a bit tricky. You need to sand down that piece of beige foam in the panel that provides structure to the door. Otherwise it will never fit. I'd also recommend cutting holes the size of the contact points where the plastic pop rivets fit. The pillars and rear walls should be somewhat easy though. The floor/carpet is easy as pie.

 

A person can spend a lot of money on sound deadening. I did just the outside of my doors with a few strips. It was hard to get in there and press down. In fact a couple days later my drivers side window caught a corner of a piece and ripped it off. Quite a mess.

 

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Yup, so basically, cut the MLV then the CCF about 1/4 larger than MLV around the edges (besides the inner cutouts for the hardware, passthroughs, door clips). The trick was actually making the template from both the door panel and the inner door itself. Combination of the tracing and using the outline of the door panel with a good reference point was key and the other 3 doors went on the first time w/ slight trimmings since the wiring loom isn't exactly the same on each door.

You need a roller to flatten the edges down. What has been working well is making sure the tile is completely flat and only pulling the backer enough to expose one corner or edge, then getting into place, holding it flat and pulling the rest of the backer off from underneath. As for sticking, a roller is a must and for the tight spots, used a piece of rounded over flat wood stock to press down the corners and edges so they are tapered toward the surface as not to get snagged, usually by my hands. This was really important because unless you are cutting the tiles with a utility knife, scissors will leave undulated edges that act like a serrated knife if given the chance. One more thing, before applying the tile/sheet if deadener, did you clean the surface? Prepping the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol both to wipe the dust and dissovle any polar compounds like oil and grease that would interfere with the adhesive and keep it in place is critical.

 

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Damn dude. Great write up. I think you spent as much time on the write up as you did the install.

 

Good write up.

It takes a lot of time and $$$. I just finished mine, and although the results are awesome, it was a PIA.

I did mine in steps. I did the anti-vibration and CCF in the doors, floor, and back panel. While everything was out, I installed the processor, amp, ran all the speaker wires and replaced the speakers front/rear. Came back with MLV and 3M acoustic as phase II.

I will say, I don't hear a 'night and day' improvement with the MLV and 3M in the roof/door panels, rear deck after phase II. Although the roof is a little cooler than it was after adding CLD tiles and 3M, my Costa's are still too hot to hold in my hand when I take them out of the sun glass storage area on a hot day (and summer has just started). Adding MLV you have a lot to do to get all the panels to fit back on, a lot of good tips above.

If you want to do what makes the most difference, do the doors and back deck wall with CLD, CCF, and 3M. Make sure to put anti-vibration strips on the inside of the door panel - especially the front doors. It makes a huge difference when the bass kicks in. You can get some cheaper CLD tiles for this type of application.

 

Thanks, the real credit goes to the ones who went before me. I am merely a copy cat, standing on the shoulders of giants. It is a huge pain until you get the hang of it, then it's easy cheesy.

Sound wise, it is a huge difference to me. I got rid of all the crappy foam and fabric Toyota thinks is "helping". The road noise was very obvious, and has been greatly reduced. This can be attributable from the Thinsulate filling up almost all of the free space between the door and panel. It is an excellent product and glad I splurged on it. As far as temps go, when I park the truck and come back, the temperature is much cooler in the cab than before. Granted, leaving it out in the sun over an extended period of time will eventually heat up regardless of how much insulation one can pack in there.

Agreed, although adding caulking into the panel's seams vastly reduced the vibrations, and the CLD tiles helped some, but not nearly as much as the caulking. The CCF did help, and will probably help more later on down the road when things get older to prevent rattles from starting. The MLV is fantastic at reducing the noise moving through the door, as well as the extra layers of Thinsulate.

 

I am not saying the products aren't making a difference, rather it starts to get a lot less noticeable as you go through the layers.

I did mine in steps, and I drove the truck with the interior panels removed (only seat and seatbelt installed) so I know where the major road noise is coming from. Then I did door by door, driving in between, to see how it shut out the noise and how it affected the sound of the stereo. There was a step function reduction of noise as you dampened vibration and sealed the doors, but at some point the road noise coming in through the windows is all you hear and the incremental difference of adding the MLV layer door by door was less of an overall impact IMO (measuring w/o instruments). I did MLV the same way- door by door and driving in between. I do still have the floor to go with MLV but it may end up being a fall project and that may be the next big difference- don't know. I have no doubt you will hear the step function improvement if you parked the truck, deadened it all at once, and then drove it,

With the interior removed, the most noise comes in through the doors and bottom of C-pillar (where the seat belt is in a DC). As you go though it panel by panel, its like shutting doors on the road noise

 

The last time I priced out a full sound deadening project it was something like $1,000. Lol

 

Great work. I have a ~100 Hz buzz on my door handles that I can't rid of. I've put CCF around the metal bracket, but it doesn't seem to work. I might try adding a couple layers of thinsulate to see if that adds some pressure against the door card.

Did you do anything on the rear pillars? The plastic around the seat belt straps rattles quite a bit.

 

Raamaudio Kit for our truck is under $500 to do the entire thing. Top to bottom. And not just laying squares out, doing the entire floor pan, entire roof, all the vertical walls and a double layer on the back wall, etc. I did the entire truck and was very happy with the results. Took about 25 hours for me to do the full install.

If you pay to do the install that's where it kills you.