to bead lock or not to? (Moab prep)

So I'm planning a trip to moab in september, possibly early october - One of the things I'm still wavering on is whether or not I should pick up some bead locks - Here is my prep list so far.

1. Armor up the truck, sliders, skids, front bumper
2. Tires, 255/85/16, replacing the stock 265/70/16 BFG ATs
3. Recovery gear, snatch strap, tow strap, etc
4. all my normal camping shenanigans, lots of water.

However, I would typically only air down to around 15-18 psi on my ATs simply because I don't want to pop a bead. For those of you that have been to Moab, are there places where I'll want to be sub 8psi necessitating a serious look at bead locks?

My goal is to take this truck to moab and go at it pretty hard as stock as it can be and be safe.

 

Having had beadlocks for 50K miles, my vote is no. I don't know about you, but I drive on the highway 50% of the time, and beadlocks are not very street friendly. The other 40% is on gravel or dirt roads and maybe 10% is in 4lo. If you have a trailer queen that is in 4lo 90% of the time, get beadlocks for sure. The other thing nobody talks about is that when aired down real low you break more stuff. I would rather have my tires spin than an axle break. The other drawback, especially on smaller tires, is losing ground clearance when aired down real low...not such an issue on 37"+ tires, but still a drawback.

 

Great feed back - I plan on driving the truck to and from moab, and the vast majority of it's time IS on the road but I try to get out and use it every weekend like it's meant to be used.

hmmm So if no beadlocks is there a way to FIX a popped bead in the field? I've seen tools to remove a bead, never seen one to reset one...

 

Not to disagree too much with username, but I ran Avalanche engineering beadlocks for about 4 years (about 500-600 Hwy miles a month or so) on the Jeep when it was a DD with no issues whatsoever. I run H1 24 bolts on it now, and although it doesn't see much pavement it still handles just as well as a non beadlock wheel IMO. Are beadlocks the ideal wheel for you, maybe not. But If you invest in a well known manufacturers DOT beadlocks, you won't notice too much of a change. Just my $.02

And a can of starter fluid and a lighter will seat a bead. Just be safe about it.

 

Starting fluid.... A ratchet strap and CO2 will also do the trick.

http://youtu.be/ygasEUUvy9A

 

Not to forget to mention...... Beadlocks (real ones) are illegal in some states.

Another method to reseat a bead (without flames) - is to use a ratchet strap.
You need a source of air - like onboard air or liquid CO2 setup.
Videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiHGEe1sdBw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZGvAqqlm7U

My husband and I actually did that on the trails. Works pretty good.
I would highly recommend having a source of air - like liquid CO2 similar to this:
http://www.lieblweb.com/liquidco2.html

And another thing...I would highly recommend not going alone. YOu should have another vehicle with you..........

 

I see a lot of people claim beadlocks are illegal but I have yet been able to actually see ANY proof of that statement

Ratchet strap seems a bit safer, and I'll have onboard air already - my real concern would be if I pop a bead such that the tire leaves the outside of the rim...

Edit: I should say that I won't be going alone, I know better than that, I don't even go to offroad parks alone. I'll have at least a buddy in his H1 with me. Or rather I'll be with him, either way lol.

 

Put your money elsewhere. If you had a valid need to air down to single digit pressures, then sure. Doesn't sound like it.

 

honestly at this point that's kinda where I'm leaning - not so much worried about the money but it doesn't really sound like i'll need them, and in a really bad situation I could probably get away with some of the trail methods of repair.

 

I would be a bit concerned airing down 8-10 ply tires that low personally anyway. It may not be any worse than c rated but it just seem like a tire thats rated for almost twice the air pressure wouldnt do as well underinflated to me.

 

TW needs a degree tract and that's all I gotta say about that. Good sheet!