Clacking noise on engine after oil change.

I did my oil change again over the weekend using Mobil 1. After I'm done, I drove my truck around and noticed the same clacking/knocking sound coming from the engine which is especially noticeable when climbing up and coming down slight elevations like a bridge. I called the dealership and the tech told me that is not normal, so I scheduled my truck to be checked by them. While waiting for the the day of the check, I decided to read some post here at TW and came across about fuel being a factor on engine performance. So, when it was time for me to fill up I use 93 instead of 87 which I normally put in, and the fuel change seems to make a difference. The clacking/knocking noise seems to be gone for now (hopefully) and the engine seems to have a renewed power.

Sorry for the long post...

 

possibly another stupid question, but when you changed the filter, did you leave a catch bottle or drain hose attached to the nipple under the filter drain? just trying to help you rule out the obvious

 

I have a similar issue that has been there since 20K service done by dealer. Mine is a cracking noise at idle, it goes away off idle. I have had it into the dealer many times and they have heard it but cant find it. I am due to drop it again and will update your thread if any change

 

If you are noticing a big difference with different octanes then the engine is probably pinging and your regular gas stinks. Without getting to complex with some of my schooling in physics, pinging happens when the fuel/air mixture ignites but the detonation/pressure wave formed doesn't hit the cylinder head symmetrically. It usually happens because lower octane gasoline in higher compression engines tends to ignite to easily before spark, or it catches spark unevenly, causing a bunch of smaller and uneven waves to hit the cylinder head instead of one big, even, and centered wave. Pinging most often may not even cause a noticeable loss in power, but you will hear a "pinging" sound.

Long story short I find most modern engines, especially those designed with higher compressions, run much smoother on Premium. Just because it's pinging doesn't mean you are damaging your engine. All cars ping to some degree, creating a perfectly even fuel/air mixture in a sub liter setting is difficult to achieve 100 percent of the time, and I found my Tacoma 4.0L was no exception.

Have the dealer check it out just to be sure, but I'm guessing they'll blame the gas before blaming there design.

Oh, and before I forget, I personally run an oversized Bosch filter over any Toyota or other branded OEM filter. Over sized filters are always found on motors in high stress applications, and IMHO oversized filters meet or exceed any standard of measure you want to use to compare them to a Toyota OEM filter.

Bosch/Purolator makes a lot of the worlds filters and car parts in general, they are known for making a consistent quality product. Fram is well known for cratering engines...

 

yes, i did have a bottle to catch the oil from filter drain.

 

Thanks for this info. I almost changed the oil filter (Fram) that I installed when I changed my oil but opted to try changing fuel first. Next time I change oil I will try Bosch or Purolator filters.

 

The oversized filter number is 3422 for the Bosch filter that will fit a 2012 Tacoma (it fits my 2013). You will have to add a bit more oil to compensate for the larger filter volume, but it will allow your engine to cool a tiny bit better and it will have more surface area than a toyota stock filter. The quality difference between the Toyota and an oversized filter is debatable, but I would guess they are very close with the edge going to the Bosch filter.

At the end of the day, just don't put another Fram on. You could get lucky, but overall the build quality and design has proven to be subpar.

 

Noted! Thanks again. I will change the filter today after work.

 

I would suggest doing a search on here for the oil filter build survey. The toyota filter is built far better than any of the aftermarket ones.

 

Just buy the OEM Toyota filter. It is better than anything else (some features are even better than Mobil-1) and it's only about $4 if you buy a case at a time from eBay or Titus-Will.
That's half the price of a Pure-One or Bosch and 1/3rd the price of a Mobil-1.

 

There is nothing wrong with the Toyota filter, but I was able to grab a dozen of the OVERSIZED Bosch filters that fit my truck for $2.50 (Canadian dollars) a piece at wally world on sale. Sadly wally world is going back to fram , so once these are done I may go back to the Toyota filter based on price.

For anyone who cares to listen and comprehend there is literally no important difference, other than size, between a Bosch OVERSIZED filter (I'm not talking about the one listed in the book as replacement, which is filter number 3330, I'm talking about the OVERSIZED filter 3422) and a Toyota OEM. I'll open one up tomorrow just to prove it. I did attach some pics of the outside canister just so you guys can get it in your head that there is a really good alternative to the Toyota filter. BTW in the picture the backflow valve on the Tacoma OEM failed, but I chalk that up to getting a bad filter. Anyways, There's lots of youtube videos of the guts of these filters, and the common complaint in all videos/forums is that the aftermarket filter has less media, because it is physically smaller, than the Toyota OEM filter. When you buy an OVERSIZED version, you are buying a physically bigger filter than the Toyota OEM and you are getting more media surface area and can surface area, which works to your engines benefit by enhancing oil cooling a smidge and increasing filtration, especially under high stress conditions.

I agree with you that a Toyota OEM filter is way better than any filter that's listed as being a direct replacement from ANY aftermarket manufacturer. However, by going to a larger filter with larger surface area (both media and external) with no ascertainable difference in; filter media, media linkage, back flow valve, and material construction, you are getting a superior product that will give superior results in the long run.

I've backed up this argument with some pics below. Tomorrow if I have time I'll even cut these bad boys open to prove my point. The filter on the left is the 3330, the middle is toyota OEM, and the third is 3422.

I'll get off my soap box now lol. Sorry I just get really frustrated that no one can see this for some reason, other than those of us who dug around to find the larger OVERSIZED after market filter for the Tacoma.

 

Check my above post and be amazed bro! There are advantages to going with a larger filter especially when you want a cooler, longer lasting, engine.

Seriously, I read that whole thread you talked about when I first changed my oil and anytime someone tried to bring this fact up they just got ran over by a .

 

Not always.
Amsoil (Wix) and many others use the same media cartridge for every filter of a given diameter, regardless of length.

Not saying that's the case with Bosch, and Bosch is one of the four filters that I am willing to use on my vehicles (though I'm not too crazy about the newer bypass valve design on the Mobil-1)
If I could get a case for $2.50, I'd be running them too.

I have no problem using a Bosch, Pure-One, Mobil-1, or Toyota.
Amsoil would be on that list as well, but their EAO filters (at least for my Duramax, the last time I bought an Amsoil filter) do not have flats to allow the use of a cap wrench, and the 2.7 is an absolute bitch with a strap wrench.

 

Agreed on all points! Sorry I just get tired of all the knocks on aftermarket filters. When I can buy a Bosch 3422 filter, which i consider a mildly better filter than the OEM part, a block away rather than driving a half hour to my stealership or waiting for a box in the mail I made an easy decision. I think It's a worth while discussion point, I guess tomorrow when I hack them open we will see the difference. Maybe I'll start a whole new thread.

 

BTW: Bosch purchased Purolator a few years ago... about the same time Champion Labs started using the "E-Core" design and discontinued the AC/Delco Duraguard-Gold (synthetic)... ever since then, the only thing Champion has made that's worth a damn are Mobil-1 and K&N. Bosch hasn't technically made a filter in quite some time. They were made by Champion Labs until they bought Purolator, then they moved production to the Purolator lines.
Of course, a year or two ago, Allied/Fram bought out Champion Labs so they now have their hands on the E-Core patents... arguably inferior to the Fram that we've come to know and hate. At least Fram has (had?) a steel core support tube. E-Core uses a plastic cage support tube (that has been documented to fail), and fiber endplates instead of cardboard.

And a year ago a Fram shill had the balls to come on the forum and bash Toyota filters because they have NO endplates

 

Looking forward to the photos. I hope the element actually is longer, and given Purolator's reputation, I would expect it.

 

I did my research before choosing my filter. Everyone should do some digging around before installing a part that directly effects engine performance and lifespan. I find in my neck of the woods the Bosch is cheaper than the Purolator, so that's the way I went

Fram's are grenades. I've seen two inhale themselves into F150 Ecoboost motors. Luckily the local Ford dealer was awesome about it, but now they have a "ban/warning" not to warrenty any more motors with orange filters attached. Frams come with no back plates AND the filter media is glued without a crimp . As far as I'm concerned Wix was a great filter a few years ago, but trailed off after the acquisitions you mentioned.

Bosch really held up there reputation when they bought out Purolator and left the filter business to a trusted company. I highly doubt the Germans will let an inferior product hit the shelves any time soon.

 

Ya, here, Bosch and Pure-One are really close. Given the choice, I'll grab the Purolator because of the textured paint on the can and the silicone seals.
But I ran Bosch for years and was always happy with them.

 

How much addition oil will your filter hold? Will that amount really help in cooling your engine? My last question is what is better cleaner oil or more oil but more debris?

 

The Bosch 3422 holds about 200mL more oil and has roughly 15% more can surface area. The filter media is of equally good quality visually. I have opened one before. I will open one again tonite along with a Toyota filter to show you what I mean. Anyways with the Bosch you're getting the same quality of filtering with more surface area too cool and reduce pressure. Do the science....

I'm not saying you have to use a Bosch 3422 filter. I am trying to point out that those of us who do have good reasons to. We are not having any issues with the canister filtering or cratering. We also gain several minor benefits over a stock filter.

Do what you want, but make sure you're properly informed with hands on tear downs rather than pointing to a single thread as the end all be all reference on tacoma oil filters. That thread doesn't even do a tear down of a good oversized filter. It only references the tiny little OEM replacement filters.