NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Still covered in snow since its at 5000 feet in elevation. Should be able to get up there around mid July (hopefully). Unless your talking about Walker Valley

 

Other than the trip in August, I am pretty much out of camping/wheeling trips for this summer. Running out of time fast, and money faster.

 

Nope - I was talking about Gallagher Head Lake. Yeah, the first year we went about this time and were not able to make it up. Second year we went in early August and no problems.

 

Have any of you guys re-geared your trucks? I am thinking 4.11 or 4.56 but I don't know enough about it.

I have a couple questions:
Do I just need the ring and pinions (front and rear) and clean the bearings or do I need all new "Master install kit"?
Are spacers and shims necessary?
Are the rear gears different between E-locker and non E-locker?
Is the front 7.5"?

 

Me and my brother went up early september last year and took my dads truck with some guys from NorthWest Overland Society. Had a great time and saw a mountain goat up on that ridge, but thats about it for wildlife.

http://northwestoverland.com/Content/EventPhotos/tabid/208/Default.aspx

That should bring you to the photo albums. Click on 2013 and then Gallagher Head lake (2nd row down third over) if youd like to see the pictures. I was in the big 6x6 truck with a tan top

 

Where can I get one of the 6x6 trucks? That thing looks like it could have a hard time getting stuck with all 6 wheels spinning. I can imagine that it doesn't flex very well though.

 

They are made by Steyr Puch, and called a Pinzgauer. Made in austria for the swiss army. Ours is a 1976 and my dad had a lot of modding done to it. You can get them on ebay, or swissarmyvehicles.com More places than just that but you get the idea. We are actually currently selling ours because we don't feel comfortable taking it on longer trips to go camping (ie over the mountains) unless we had a trailer so we could tow it over.

http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9071

Also if you go to classifieds on that forum there are more. Our model is a 712M. (712 being 6x6, 710 is the 4x4 model, and M meaning convertible. They made them in hardtop as well).

 

They are amazing in mud, 6 wheel drive with portal axles and all lock up. 5sp manual, manual steering and brakes. I love driving it and you get nothing but attention where ever you go.

As far as flexing goes, type in "pinzgauer" on youtube and there are a ton of videos of these doing ridiculous things.

 

Ok so I'm moving n everything has to go!!!

ANY reasonable offers accepted, no shipping..

Everything is off an 05 dc lb

Text works best 3608802929, Tallon

driver side front flare, some scuffs

Sub box, dual 10s, Subs are blown

black diamond tool box slides in the bed rails I have brackets n keys

Smoked tail lights non led driver side busted

14" travel shocks loop to stud

Rear seat head rests Grey

Rear seat plastics

Front bumper n crash bar, rough shape, silver

ENTIRE FRONT END, basically hub to hub, spindles, cv's, uca n lca's, brakes n rotors, front dif

 

Good luck selling it all Tallon.

Kolt, if you are going to regearing, put in air lockers at the same time. They will be a lot more coin, but it beats tearing everything apart twice. Also, 4.11 is good for 33" tires, and 4.56 is good for 35s to take things back to factory points. That will take your speedometer to about accurate and the motor won't have to work quite as much spinning the wheels, and bring gas mileage back to about original points. As for your other questions, I don't know the answers.

 

I have though about that but having an oem e-locker makes me feels like I'm throwing a bunch of money at the truck to be just a little better. I'd rather spend that extra money on skids. I swe what your saying about the 4.11 vs 4.56 but I'm looking to go with the one that costs less lol. The 4.56 would still be better then the 3.74 (or what ever it is) if I can find a 4 cylinder 4x4 that I could pull the 4.11 gears from then that would be great. Can anyone answer the other question though? Do I need the master install kit or with the 4.11 or 4.56 swap over with just the ring and pinions?

 

Tallon what are the measurements of the tool box? Depending dimensions I am highly interested.

 

You might want to clarify if you are referring to the sub box or the tool box. Good luck

 

And maybe Text instead...He said it's the best way for contact.

 

Thanks guys I completely overlooked both those.
I'll txt in the morning to avoid late night disturbance

 

I don't know much about setting up the gears, wish I did. I would recommend buying the master install kit and replacing the bearings. The shims don't all get used, but there's no way of knowing which ones will be needed to reach the proper specs for setting up the pinion depth and back lash. You should be making the gear choice on tire size and not trying to save a buck in my opinion. I only say that because it's an expensive job and you only want to do it once, and be happy with it. I'm on my second rebuilt rear drop out with 4.88's because the first place didn't set up gears correctly and it locked up within a couple thousand miles. It's money well spent in the end, the return of power and ease of driving after the re gearing is huge! I'm running 37's with 4.88 gears and my truck has plenty of power.

 

I want to do it as well. Let me know what price ranges you find.

 

Don't have dimensions, I'm at work till late, but here's a couple views of it in

 

Check this out guys,
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4547451933.html

 

thanks Tallon. I am trying to fit it in my 1st gen. I am iffy it would fit without going past my bed rails.