NJ B.S. Thread

Last I saw they were still in his garage...

 

I like that setup too but I don't have to tools to make that shock hoop. Plus he had to run wheel spacers to clear the shock body at full stuff, not my cup of tea. The inboard shock debate is an age old debate much like weld/bolt on slider debate. There any many opinions for both ways and some complain of increased body roll from inboarding them but I haven't noticed any ill effects of that sort.

You have to remember when you read people's opinions about stuff online is that it is subjective and some have varying opinions on what is tolerable for body roll/vibrations/cab noise etc. I mean comon, all my reviews on parts and upgrades are coming from a guy with 2 transfer cases, no doors, no sway bar, and zero fucks given about comfort

 

I'm sure his uncles brothers barbers friends cousin knows a smoking hot chick that could settle those debts to black pipe fab LLC

 

Who is a lawyer/doctor/accountant that sells cars and his body

 

That's a lot of ball joints

 

nah…. just his buddy

 

another reason BPF is #1

payment options that others don't offer & some can afford

 

dam I read that a long time ago...missed he had to run spacers. spacers will not touch my truck. were you on that run with us when the guy broke down and held us all up because his POS spacers came loose? someone from here had to be...we had 20 some trucks

 

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-textured-rust-encapsulator-black-aerosol-15oz.html

Anyone have any experience with this. I'm looking at using it on my bumpers. Suppose to be like POR-15 but UV safe and much easier to apply

 

Haven't seen it before. POR15 isn't too bad to apply, I found it sort of self levels.

If that stuffs similar definitely wear gloves, I'm still wearing POR15 from Friday night

 

It's a lot cheaper too. I would have them powder coated.

 

I'm aware, we had a drunken paint mojos skid plates day. Back in the good old days

 

You need a self etching primer and a good hard acrylic type paint for the front if you want to avoid a ton of chips. That's for rusty shit you can't sand..

Id get real liquid paint/primer and apply it with something like this and use a small brush for the hard to reach areas.


In 4-5 years the two best paint jobs on my bumper were done with a roller and Benjamin Moore & Sherwin Williams industrial paint. The two worst were spray paint and when I last rolled Rustoleum over the old stuff with no primer....(why my bumper recently looked like it was a 12ga birdshot target trap)

I'm still wearing POS rubber undercoat from Saturday and waiting for it to cure so I can do my final top coats

 

Lol, sweet. I'm picking up some TW history on this next RC trip then. I'll bring some POR15 so we can continue painting Mojos skids lol.

 

Atleast it's not on your "hootus"

 

it says "epoxy fortified" interesting!!!… it should make this product good againts scuffing chipping…

 

I'm entertaining that idea. I wheel like a jackass, so I assume the more armor, the more bad decisions, so I need something easily touched up. My sliders are powder coated, every weld has rusted through the finish in less than a year. Granted, they are Jerry-rigged BAMF sliders, but it still put a bad taste in my mouth