2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

I also left tabs in the hopes of using them to attach some sort of wheel well liner. Been running without wheel well liners for over a year and also thinking about zipping off the left over tabs

 

It's probably easy enough to hose out the wheel wells if you get mud and shit up there right?

 

I find it a lot easier now to hose out the wheel wells without the liner in. Cause of the location of the stock intake, I ended up rerouting mine into the cowl. Used a blank 4 11/16" electrical cover plate to seal up the hole where the stock ice cream scoop used to poke into the wheel well. You has snorkel so you're good to go

 

Sounds good man

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks!

Can't wait to get out of work so I can get back to working on the truck

 

what kind of tires are those on the left

 

Logo looks like mickey thompson

 

My 2010 with OME suspension, Bushwacker fenders, and 317/70/17 Cooper AT3s. Rubs a little up front but I can deal with that.

 

A lot of the tabs on the back of my flares were broken so new orange and blue clips weren't going to work, wasn't sure how bolting them on would look but I kind of like it, going to get some stainless steel hardware and press some threaded inserts into the factory holes, what do you think?

 

I saw an xsp-x tacoma the other day. It had bolt on fenders flairs color matched. We should look into those

 

Then letts drill them. Didn't search to much on that package. Liked the led under the headlight running lights though

 

That 315 looks considerably wider than the the 35/12.5.

 

They look worse in pictures than they are, got them really cheap so I could get all my cutting and hammering done, ordering gears, lockers and new tires in a few months, maybe some bead locks if I can fit them in the budget.

 

When you guys cut your rear fenders, what did you do with the top support, I really don't want to remove it completely

 

Kept it, drilled holes in the fender and bolted it to the fender. I was originally going to put my flairs back on so it wouldn't of been seen, but I ripped off most of the tabs on the flares and do not want to pay $300 a piece for new ones... Wish I would of done it a different way. Let me know what you end up doing.

 

Same situation here, tabs are broken so I drilled the flares and bolted them on with some stainless steel hardware, it don't look to bad, like a cheap bushwacker knock off. I'll be doing the rear this weekend.

 

I left tabs when I cut my fenders that the original flares clipped into. I hammered the top support flat and cut it down to fit. Drilled holes thru the tabs left in th fenders and top support. Used some 1/4" bolts, washers and nuts to secure top support to fender tabs. This helped to secure the top of the bedside

 

Hey guys. I need some advice. Right now I'm running 33s on a leveling kit. If I were to get this lift kit http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/3-Inch-Lift-Kit-with-Front-ES6000-Shocks-and-Rear-ES9000-Shocks.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=38&t_pt=3533&t_pn=EXPK5081B and trade out the rear block for all pro expo leafs. I'd have a total of 3 inch of life loaded down. All I would have to do is trade out my ucas and cut fenders. Beat back the pinch weld. Cab mount chop. And beat back the firewall. Right? My wheels have a back spacing of 4.5 inches if that changes anything. Would I need to run spacers?

 

I have 4.5 bs and rub my UCA (TC) sometimes. I've been procrastinating getting some 4" bs steelies for some time now to alleviate it. Don't run spacers, they're ghey. Unless your LT and run them in the back