255/85 R16 Owners Experience

I'd call them and get a refund - it's not like you don't have written proof of their horrible practices. A drunken monkey would of done a better job. Your caster is FUBAR.

When you looked at it you did not see the red that states it is clearly out of spec?

For reference this is ideal:

0* toe
0* camber
2.5-3+ caster

 

Do you know of anyone that has hit the ideal caster specs without aftermarket UCA on a 3" lift?

From looking around on the forums the closest I've seen is 1.8°.

 

Less than awesome

 

No. it's impossible with a 3" lift and OE UCA's to get 3* caster.

 

My truck rides fine as well with stock UCAs, and 2in lift. A little looser on the highway but nothing worth fussing with. No rubbing at all with my toyo tires, 33.5in tall 255s on 1st gen steel wheels 4.5bs. Some background.....after I installed the OME lift, I had an allignment done and the adjustment cams where completely frozen that the tech could not get the caster above 1.2. No big deal I thought, as long as the truck rides well and low caster doesn't cause excessive tire wear? Not sure it did, but after rotating my tires it confirmed that they are in fact wearing evenly so I decided to say fuck it, there are more important things to spend $300+ on than UCAs! For example, dual battery system, snorkel, maxtrax, etc. Just my two cents.

 

Frozen cam bolts mean every single time your LCA moves so does your alignment specs. Your cams are literally moving with the LCA thus your alignment is all over depending on road conditions.

 

Frozen adjustment cams will not change caster specs, these are fixed. I agree that camber specs change relative to the road during normal suspension travel but not because of having frozen alignment cams. Frozen alignment cams means that I no longer can adjust camber and caster The reason my truck tracks well with lower caster numbers is because of weight of my truck and front end - ex. arb bumper, winch, overhead racks, skids...plus my overall lift is only 2in. The higher you lift a truck the more it throws camber/caster out of spec. Caster effects how the car tracks on the highway, does it feel loose (easy to steer), or does it feel tight (harder to steer)....A light stock truck with 3in lift you will want to increase the caster to 3* so the steering feels normal. A heavier modified truck with 2in lift, loaded down with gear (ex overland truck), you may not need adjust caster if the truck tracks well on the highway and steering does not feel loose. The reason I went with OME lift was because it was designed make our trucks feel and ride like the stock suspension while carrying heavy loads off-road and on road. My stock suspension could not handle carrying 18gallons extra fuel and weeks worth of gear. I don't want to high jack this thread with any more alignment talk, so I will refer to this article for those interested in the effect of caster setting relative to weight:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Hope this helps, someone who is trying to decide what size tire to run and the affects of suspension choice, weight, intended use, etc. has a lot to consider. This tire size paired with OME lift and and Overland build intended use has been a winner for me, even with stock UCAs! There is no one size fits all (tacomas) scenarios here!

 

He's saying that if your cam bolt is froze then as your suspension cycles it is dragging the whole cam around with it. This is the number one cause of bent cam tabs on these rigs. You may want to check yours on that frozen one. If your cam tabs are moving around then your alignment is continually changing. Caster is not fixed on these rigs like it is on a car. By pulling the front cam tab in and the rear one out you can increase your caster significantly. A lot of the LT guys running heimed UCA's will max out their caster with the cam tabs and then used the UCA's to set camber.

So I agree that if both cam tabs are frozen then your caster is fixed but if it is just one then your caster and camber can be changing as the suspension cycles.

 

Hey all. New to the forum. Pretty much have my mind set on this size tire. I've jumped around about 40 pages of this giant thread looking for my answer but haven't found it so now I could use some help. I'm considering the km2s and found all the specs online but I'm wondering if anyone has some real world measurements. Has anyone who is running these km2s on 16x8 wheels put a tape measure to them? I'd like to know the actual tread width and section/sidewall width when mounted on 8 inch wide rims.
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Just shy of 7.5" for treadwidth. And about 10-7/8" for overall width. That is tricky to measure with the wheels on the truck though.

 

and aired down to 15psi

 

Thanks Brady very helpful. Does anyone have real world measurements on the maxxis bighorns and cooper st maxx on an
8 inch wide wheel?

 

Uh... haha. I could do that but I don't really feel like it. Plus weight will play a big roll. 25 psi on my rig looks like 15 psi to most rigs. Haha


Plus how the fuck do I measure that? Park on the tape measure? no idea how to get tread width doing that though.

 

When you guys say that this tire will fit and not rub with the stock wheels do you mean the 4.5" backspace or the 5.25"? It looks like the tire would hit my UCA with my stock 5.25" rims.

 

Well I have 8" wide tires with 4.5" BS and I had to do a good amount of trimming to clear at full stuff.

Technically this tire is skinnier than the stock size so if your stocks don't hit the UCA then this one shouldn't either.

 

^Good to know. Where was your trimming?
I need to go stuff. I'm still in the planning stages here.
Is anyone running these with the 5.25 stock alloy's?
I would rather ask a stupid question here than look like a fool at the tire shop when they mount these up.

 

I flattened the pinch weld and beat back the inner fenderwell all over. I've removed most of the plastic liner and did a good amount of trimming on the flares, particularly at the back by the cab mount. Before I had my plate bumper I did a lot of trimming near the factory bumper also. I didn't have to trim the rear much at all though.

 

I'd say that was a good amount. I'm prepared to do that if I have to, but I'd like to avoid as much as possible if I can. Which is obvious. Thanks man.

 

The easiest way is to get a good floor jack out ajd remove both front C/O's and then lower the rig down onto the bumps. Mark where you need to cut and raise it back up and trim. Then drop and mark and raise and trim until it's good enough for you. Be sure to turn it lock to lock to check for rubbing. If you don't wheel much then you can probably just find somewhere to flex it out and mark it for trimming. I do a lot of high speed stuff so I see my bumps a lot.

 

tried searching but couldnt find an answer, will i be able to run these tires on my stock 13 regular cab? i plan on getting a small lift soon but will be purchasing this size tire first.