The Tacoma Towing Bible

Mainly, it comes w/ a class IV hitch. This is the main reason for it's rating. IF you put a similar hitch on a non tow package vehicle you could also safely tow the higher rated weight.

You also get a transmission cooler (auto tranny) an oil cooler (which is kinda of an extra. Never seen an extra oil cooler as a tow package add on), a 7 pin connector at the hitch and a heavy duty alternator. All of which 'help' with keeping the associated systems up to par with heavy duty towing. Also, you get a 'pig tail' to wire in a brake controller. This is found in the glove box and is used to easily and correctly add a brake controller.

 

It comes w/ the pig tail and all the wiring to the hitch required for adding a brake controller which is not include w/ the truck. There are many brake controllers available for many different prices. Pretty simple to hook up though.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! okay i guess that's not as bad as i thought

 

Thanks for the replies. Looking for a truck, and this opens up some (otherwise) closed doors. I have no problems adding the extra "hardware" to the truck if necessary, and I aim to do it right! Would be nice to get one with the tow package already, but that limits what is available on the market. It's very difficult to find the truck that meets my needs, (looks, financially...) AND has the tow package installed.

Adding the wiring and brake controller isn't a problem either. Had to do that to my existing vehicle to tow my TT.

Again, thanks for educating me.

TB

 

My first post, so forgive me if I missed something or jumped protocol. I searched threads and read the FAQ's
I just bought my first TACO. 2006 quad cab TRD PreRunner with 115k miles on it. Other than a little brake flutter, it seems to run as expected.
I plan to use it as a daily driver, also plan to haul a single axle motorcycle trailer (12' x 8') loaded with quads and gear through the desert and the mountains in the summer. All told, I estimate trailer, quads, gear at approx. 3500 lbs. I have the tow package, so I'm safe with the load.
Thank you to Maverick491 for the excellent Bible info btw !
This newbie question is: I would like to do a mild brake upgrade to save my brakes while towing - any recommendations? I'm a little shy on $, so I'd like to keep it under $500. I was thinking the slotted rotors and ceramic pads for the front and not sure if there are upgrades for the rear drums?
Also, is there a plug in the tranny for a temperature sending unit?
Any input greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

 

sub'd for the info

 

I have a 06 Tacoma V6 with No towing package. However, I can see the factory brake controller harness is there, has anyone tried to add the relays/fuses under the hood and able to locate the rest of the wires go? I am trying to add a 7 pin connector at the back.

 

I recently bought a new Tacoma and travel trailer. According to the Toyota dealer and RV dealer both were within the specs for each other.

2014 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab 4x4
2014 Kodiak Express 255BHSL (4783 Unloaded 523 Hitch 6600 Max)
EAZ-Lift Weight Distributing hitch with Sway Bar

The issue I'm having is that when I reach Freeway speeds there is play in the trailer. Seems to sway some and makes for some white knuckle driving when at speeds 50+. I never go over 55-60 but still it's quite unnerving. I've been very careful not to put more than about 500-600 lbs of cargo in the trailer too so my total weight isn't above about 5400 lbs which is 1000 lbs under the trucks towing capacity. I have always had it empty of water and waste.

The RV dealer didn't adjust the hitch properly so I had that done professionally and it's slightly better but still is an issue and dips slightly at the hitch. I'm thinking of adding airbags to help with this. The other thought is to add an additional sway bar control to the other side of the hitch.

After these two things the only other thought is to go to a better hitch where it's metal on metal but honestly I'm new so not sure if it isn't just the trailer being too long or large for the Tacoma.

This is my first truck and travel trailer so would love others thoughts to help me understand if this is common?

Maybe I need to just buy a smaller trailer or go buy a larger truck for this trailer size.

Thanks!
Andrew

 

A little movement or sway is normal. How much towing have you done in general? It can be a little unnerving at first with any set-up.

You will, of coarse, get a fair amount of movement anytime you are close to a tractor-trailer because of the air turbulence and drafts created as you pass each other. Any crosswind at all will give you movement as well.

I pull an 18' trailer, which 7' longer will make some difference, but our weights aren't too far apart. My double cab is a short-bed, a long-bed would be a little better, which is yours?

I did add the ride-rite Firestone air bags, but that was mostly because the cargo I carry in my truck bed varies, ie generator or not etc. The airbags are nice, and maybe a little help on sway but they definitely stiffen up the ride. You also have to be careful not to shift too much weight to your front wheels. I measure my unloaded/non-towing rear bumper height, and add enough air to get me about 1"-2" lower than unloaded. Same should apply to your WDH too, but it is better for your truck rear to be a little lower than any higher than an inch or two below stock.

I have never heard of running two sway bars, I would research that before I did it. Seems to me backing up and sharp turns might get all that in a bind, but I certainly am no expert..like I said, I just have never heard of it. I tend to think that even if you had the 27' and 5k lbs welded and bolted on straight to the back of your truck it's going to get pushed around some on the highway.

I towed my camper with an f-150 dbl cab before the Tacoma, and yeah the camper did not move the truck quite as much, but for me it wasn't worth the difference. The ford had mechanical issues at only 60k, was a pain to run around town in, park etc, and got significantly worse gas mileage when NOT towing. (Towing mpg was a little better 2mpg or so, than Tacoma's)

Not that it is at all a safe practice, but I have towed my rig in excess of 80mph when traffic was light, and in a real hurry.

You are within specs with your current rig, may just take some getting used to.

 

I use this hitch with friction sway bars on both sides:

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP66153.html

Maybe you need a better distro hitch?

 

Thanks for the feedback so far. It's helpful to hear. I've got varying recommendations form three RV dealers I've gone to already.

I had a pop-up that I towed with my Volvo wagon before and had no issues with sway or bounce or anything. Granted the first time or two I drove it it was odd and took getting used to but it didn't take long.

This one I've taken out 6 times and each time it's got me worried at highway speeds when it sways. I thought I'd get used to it but I haven't. The professional adjustment of the hitch helped when I took it out this last time but there was still enough there to make me think something is wrong still. You've have thought when the dealer installed it it would have been right.

I've got the short bed so the wheelbase I think adds to the problem.

I made an appt for an Equalizer hitch to be installed next week. Will see how that helps out. Just hope they adjust it correctly. I will wait on the airbags to see how it sits with the new hitch but it may be the next step to try.

Then I'll look to sell the eazi-lift hitch and sway bar. It works okay I just have too much weight and length for it I think.

I really like my Tacoma and want to keep it if possible.

I tried to add a picture but was unsuccessful.

 

Another possibility is the distribution of weight in the trailer. If you're putting all your gear in the back of the trailer just to weight off the hitch, that can cause your trailer to be unstable and wobble. Get airbags and a weight distributing hitch to help with the sag, and keep slightly more weight in front of the wheels, something like 60/40 I think.

Personally, I would NEVER even come close to maxing out the tow rating of my truck. I've got a 1st Gen double cab V6 4x4, and my trailer is max ~2400# (tow rating of ~5000#). I wouldn't want to go much higher than that gross weight. However, I drive it up in the mountains, if you're on flats you should be able to push it closer to the max rating without much bother.

 

Andrew,

I checked the specs on your kodiak trailer and it's rather long and also the GVWR is a bit over the towing capacity for a Tacoma, with towing capacity up to 6500#.

I only say this because we just bought a 2014 4x4 Taco, with the tow prep, specifically to haul our new 1885 Lance Trailer (aka 1995). The GVWR on the trailer is 5700# and is 4140 # unloaded. The Lance is 24 feet long, including the hitch. We use a fastway e2 WDH system (weight distribution hitch) that has sway control built into it. The e2 is the 800# tongue/8,000 # distribution. Supposed to take some of load off back wheels of Taco and redistribute to front wheels of Tacoma and back wheels of trailer.

The Tacoma is pulling the trailer ok. There is some sway, at times, but then gets under control. This is our third trailer. Pulled with highlanders prior to this.

We love the Taco and bought for its smaller size, having never driven a truck, and the Tundra would not fit in my garage.

I really hope you can resolve the sway through a good WDH system and getting it properly set-up. We pack light. Hope you do the same. Let us know how you resolved the problem. White knuckles and swaying is not fun! debbie

 

So I currently have 285 70 17 tires with a 3 in puck in the front and an add a leaf in the rear. The leafs are the 3 leaf and have separated and toyota did not honor the tsb bc they say "I have too many miles". Any way I am moving cross country and need to tow about 3500 lbs so what do you all recommend to replace the suspension in the rear so I can still still have 33s? I was looking at expedition leafs and bilstein 5100s? Is this a good setup to use that will allow me to tow on the rare occasion without too much squatting?
Thanks

 

My buddy just asked if I could tow his 1996 s-10 blazer about 100 miles. I'm at work and can't pour too much time into research. I have the long bed v6 w/ towing package.

Can I get a quick yes/ no if the truck can handle this?

Thanks

 

I don't see why not. Just give yourself a lot of room and remember to begin stopping before you actually need to

 

Thanks for the replies. Everything went smoothly. Truck handled and pulled the trailer with ease.

 

Thanks you all for the great info in this thread. I have read through all 43+ pages and have one simple question: Do you tow in D or 4?

Taking the new boat to the Keys next week. Trip is about 200 miles in South FLorida heat. No major hills other than highway overpasses. Truck is an 08' TRD sport DC longbed. Has the full tow package. TSB was not done but I did add a

$232 Hellwig 979 EZ-990 Helper Spring Kit

Hellwig 979 helper spring kit. That has helped a bunch on short trips to the local boat ramp. Boat is listed at 2650 +480 for the motor. Trailer is listed at 850 so I am close to 4k dry. figure another 1000lbs for beer ice, wife and kids stuff i am pushing a bit over 5k. Trailer has surge brakes. Thanks again.

 

Short answer: it depends.

If the truck can hold D without down shifting constantly, just use D. If it keeps down shifting to maintain speeding, then use 4. I tow routinely in 6th with my manual as long as the engine doesn't lug or struggle. If it does, drop it down a gear.

 

I generally only tow lighter loads in D. If I am towing over 3k lbs I keep it in 4th. It is cheaper to buy extra gas than a new transmission.